Wearable printed Maximilian leg armor in TPU

Oct 23, 2026 Last reply: 12 hours ago 4 Replies
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Most printed armor you come across leans on stiff PLA or PETG and ends up as a shelf piece. This build goes another way: cuisses and poleyns in the Maximilian style, dating to the early 1520s, printed in flexible filament and meant to be worn for larping, renfaires and movie costume work. The aim is reasonable accuracy to surviving originals, and the articulated fluted cuisses with knee cops and decorative side wings look like a genuine attempt at that.



As for how it came together, the parts were run on an X1C without an AMS, using the TPU for AMS profile from Bambu Labs and leaving the volumetric flow rate untouched. Layer height was 0.08mm, printed slowly, with everything oriented vertically as far as possible and generous supports even on small features, since overhangs in this material behave badly and holes and sloped walls needed backup. The hardware is proper: brown leather straps, metal buckles, rivet-like joints, and leather suspension straps carrying the weight from a waist belt. The overlapping segments move around the knee, and the knee lames slide without restricting flexion or extension.



The main material is 57D silk TPU, with 95A and 72D printed mostly to see how each behaves. The result is significantly tougher than an earlier version in PETG-CF. Paint went straight onto raw prints with no sanding, polishing or filling: a gloss black undercoat, then Alclad II Chrome sprayed thin as a single dry coat.



The trade-off is that layer lines stay visible without any sanding, extra finishing for a brighter shine had to be skipped this month, and the 72D filament remains something the maker admits to not understanding well.


Painting straight over raw prints seems like a smart call to me. Skipping sanding, polishing and filling keeps the surface honest, and the maker says the 57D silk TPU looks quite decent straight off the printer anyway. The obvious cost is those visible layer lines under gloss chrome, but for armor meant to take crawling and impacts, I would rather have the time spent on durability than on mirror smoothness.

How was the chrome finish actually built up? Getting a metallic look over flexible filament without any prep sounds tricky, and I am curious whether the undercoat and topcoat needed any particular order or curing time before the chrome went on.

The maker covered this in a comment: the paint is Sico Perma-Flex gloss black underneath Alclad II Chrome. The chrome was sprayed thin as a single dry coat over the cured gloss black undercoat, applied to raw prints with no sanding, polishing or filling. One tip from the maker is that a single pass with a t-shirt corner can polish the chrome when it goes on dusty.

Since the 72D TPU gave print quality trouble and the maker admits to not having a good grasp of it yet, I would suggest printing a batch of small test coupons in that hardness before committing to any large part. Small pieces isolate the settings, cost little filament and would quickly show what overhangs and flow behavior do in 72D, which sounds like exactly the understanding that is still missing here.

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