Ignition lock cylinder problem!

Sounds like the ignition switch is jamming, not the lock. Whilst you have the lock out, try turning the ignition switch with a screw driver, see if it turns freely. (Make sure you put the switch back to the same place it started, or you will not get the lock back in)

My opinion you should take it to the dealer to have the linkage check out and the switch check out . Most likely the switch has gone bad on you, You said the cylinder works just find when it's out. Does the cylinder turn when you have the cylinder install? If so then you need to replace the cylinder with another one because the cam on the back side of the cylinder has broke.

More inserted.

Some of the Chrysler ignition switches, I don't think you could turn them with a screw driver. But it's been a few years since I had one apart.

You sound less surprised than the original poster.

Funny!!!!!

Thanks Simon. Yes, the switch does turn freely! I tried it few times!

IF the key turns in the lock WITH IT removed from the switch, the problem is probably NOT the lock..

it can be the switch it mounts in. OR, IF this is a FLOOR SHIFT AUTOMATIC, can be the park cable adjustment..

the tranny shift is in PARK, but the cable that connects TO the ign mechanism thinks its NOT..hence the key wont turn..

its a possible..

--Shiva--

Dear Dale, what'd you mean by, "Does the cylinder turn when you have the cylinder install?" If you mean, when I "installed" it back in the housing then no, it does not turn freely. I have to tap on it again or wiggle/reinsert the key few times to get it to turn. I'll probably check with the dealer on Monday! Thanks.

Thanks Shiva but according to the shop manual the shifter cable is working as it should. There are a couple of tests in the manual that are used to confirm that the shifter cable is within specs and it is!

Thanks again.

Sarah,

Are you using the same key you always used or is this a new copy?

I had this problem once on a Chevy and it was just that the head of the hey was hitting the plastic bezel. I didn't notice it when I first made the key as the customer had the dash apart when I made the key and installed the cylinder but when he tried the key after he reinstalled the dash there was interference.

Look closely at the head of the key and the plastic around the lock to see if this is the problem.

Sarah...

You most likely have a broken piece of the cam inside where the cylinder goes in.

Look on the cylinder the end where the cylinder goes i first it should have a cam that looks like a "C" but it will be broken and the broken piece most likely inside. Look inside and find something to remove the broken piece out. Replace the broken cylinder. I believe that you have to have a new cylinder that will read a transponder key. A locksmith could keyed it to your key so you will have one key and that would be the best way to do the job right.

Good luck!

Have not seen many 01 Chryslers have you?

bingo, I also believe the problem is in the key itself.

had the same problem w/ a honda key in the past... the key would not push in far enough to dissengage the steering lock.....

steve

Hyundai, I had a call to remake a lost key last year. Well, my key was long enough to operate the door, but not long enough to get the last tumbler of the ignition. Real inconvenience.

Honda had some that the short blank would turn the car on -- but it would not depress into the housing to turn it off. Locksmiths everywhere had to saw off the bow with a sidecutting saw to get the key out with a pliers. I've never done one of these but....

thanks fer correcting me stormin'.... was not able to depress far enough to "engage" steering lock... same profile but longer neck....

steve..

Ah, was that a correction? Just remembering something I'd read in the locksmith magazines.

If the lock cylinder turns freely when removed then there is interference another part of the mechanism. Is the sterring wheel lock mechanism binding? How about the park neutral interlock mechanism which prevents your starting the car in gear? How about the switch itself? Get a manual and check each in turn.

Here is the probable answer. See this all the time.

These ignition locks had a problem with the wafers (tumblers) sticking. This causes the lock not to turn from the off position. The way you got it out is exactly what most automotive locksmiths do to get the lock out for repair. What happens is you insert the key and then rap on the lock/key. I don't use a hammer, but usually the plastic handle of a large screwdriver. This causes the wafer to fall into the correct position and allowing the lock mechanism to turn. We usually charge about $50 to rebuild the lock + a service call charge if applicable. The only way to truly correct this problem is to debur all the wafer slots and wafers in the lock while apart. Not just clean and lube. After a good job, the wafers will move very freely and this should never happen again. I guarantee a rebuild, but not a replacement lock. I will not guarantee something that has a history of a known problem.

Dennis