Re: Help ID Mosler safe

I would like to see the pictures otherwise I call bullshit on your
>story, safes are not air tight, in a hot fire the dial melts off,
>leaving a 3/8 '" hole to equalize the pressure, not to mention the gap
>around the door. the only way i could see this happening would be
>there was something explosive in the safe. not the safe itself
Todd, OLD SAFES were -burglar proof- (some at least) meaning the
door fit tight, so you could NOT pour nitro down the crack and
blow the door off...thats a TIGHTER than what you get now fit...
put a small pressure cooker on your stove, block the vent off,
and turn the fire on....
what happens? IT EXPLODES...
OLD safes, the dial was brass as well, not the plastic crap used
now, or the zamack (sp) used now... SOME I have seen have the rod
down the dial hole made such that it will NOT leave much of an
air gap...they were designed to NOT be able to be driven in, in
fact... Star comes to mind on 1...makes another pretty air tight
nuk pu nuk
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shiva , what you are describing as a nitro resistant safe were compression door safes such as cannonballs or mini vaults neither were designed as fire proof .as a matter of fact they were solid metal. Older safes were designed different than today , If they were meant as both a burglary and fire unit the outer safe was fire proof and the inner safe was burglary proof with a tighter fitting door but was shielded against the heat because of the outer safe. and s&g uses brass not zamac, the explanation Gary has is somewhat believable but I have never heard of it happening. And this is the internet where anybody can say anything I would like to see proof such as a savta article or nat lock article, not just a friend of a friend story,
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gee, several inches of concrete in the walls doe NOT make fireproof? 8" worth is useless??? cute... unfortunately we still got those kind of safes around here...
I have ALSO hear of it happening as well, and usually as the stupid fire dept was playing with areas they should NOT be...IE, trying to cool a fried to a crisp safe down..ASAP- NOT recommended...
I went and opened a safe after a fire here s of me couple of years back... the dial post was still present... and the interior lock was still in good shape... grabbed the little bit of the post, with vice grips and turned to unlock... everything in the safe was burned tho...excedpt what was stuck inside the books...and they were crispy on the edges...
the NEW S&G dials vanish easily... the post IS brass and usually survives... other brands sometimes dont use the good stuff tho...
--Shiva-- nuk pu nuk
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shiva you wrote "gee, several inches of concrete in the walls doe NOT make fireproof? 8" worth is useless??? cute... unfortunately we still got those kind of safes around here..."please reread my post . or are you saying cannonballs are 8" of concrete not maganese steel ? I dont understand how you get so scattered about posting , You go from burglary safes that are made to be nitro proof to fire safes all in the same breath, and then twist what i say to what you want to hear. As for your experience with the safe that the contents were lost, what's the point ? a safe now a days has ratings on how long it will survive a fire, if it goes past the rating good chance the contents will be lost. antiques quite often advertised as proof weather fire or burglary it does not matter we all know they made claims that today lawyers would eat for breakfast in a court of law. and this long drawn out post is getting to the point of being stupid. and I am starting to get irritated by it, you will believe what you want to. no matter what logic i can reply with. you do not back up your post Such as your $100,000.00 tan with 14 relocks in the door but you dont know the model of so i know what you are talking about. I personally never heard of a tann that cost that much or had that many relocks, and if I had you can be sure i would know the model, you admittedly never go to classes because you cant justify the expense but seem to have a story for everything. I told you you won a few posts back to stop this tread before i got frustrated with your ignorance on the subject. now i am done and will not argue it any further unless you want to take it up on the safe forum on clearstar where experts can hear both sides and comment on who is full of it and who is not . so as i said earlier, believe what you want, and I hope people that ask questions on this forum know to take everything with a grain of salt because you dont know who is answering it and how much they really know.
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I forgot to add why you story on the tann was B.S. any body that does safes knows that when you ship a safe there are pins in the relocks so that if the glass breaks the relocks will not fire they are called shipping pins, when the safe is delivered you remove them.
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LOLOL.... yep...if they were there... they didnt mention them, so, it seems they were not... --Shiva-- nuk pu nuk
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