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UPDATE: key stuck in ignition

A number of weeks ago I posted here about my key being stuck in my ignition of my Chevy Cavalier, as well as a problem with a loose rod connecting my door lock to the lock cylinder. I fixed the rod problem, but the ignition problem remained. Well, strangely enough, the key came out all of a sudden. What had happened was I needed to call a tow truck because of a burst brake line. I had it towed home so I could fix the line. The tow truck driver needed to go into the car to check the parking brake, put it in neutral, etc. Most likely he also had to turn the key to "on" as well. Whatever he did, after I fixed the brake line later that day, I noticed the key moved just a slight amount further down than before when I turned the engine off. It didn't dawn on me at first, but after about the third time of turning it off, I realized something had changed, and I was able to pull the key out of the ignition! So despite months of me trying to ease it out, nothing worked, then comes along the tow truck driver, and in the course of turning the key, he somehow got it loosened. And he wasn't even trying to do so. It must have been how he turned it. I don't know.

Reminds me of my car stereo. I had had a cassette tape stuck in it, and was not able to get it out for at least a year. So I was giving my roommate a ride one time, and she asked me what was wrong with my stereo. I told her, and with just one button press, she got it to pop out! Unbelievable.

Well, I have no idea what the tow truck driver did, but it worked. The only thing I did in the meantime was install a new brake line, bleed my brakes, and adjust my parking brake. None of which would have affected the key. I am perplexed about this whole situation. It feels great being able to pull out my ignition key now and not have to worry about someone stealing my car as much (although who would want a '91 Cavalier? :) )!

Question: what is the maximum number of keys I should have on my key ring that I have my car keys on (or what is the max. weight)? After removing a ton of keys, it weighs only 3 oz. now and there are only 6 keys on it, plus a number of shopping discount cards.

Also, can anyone tell me where I can buy 3/16" steel rivets for the seat belt brace which goes on my car door (I had to drill out the rivets to remove the seat belt roller to re-attach the connecting rod to the lock)? I have found only aluminum rivets everywhere I have checked, like NAPA and Home Depot. Thanks!

Julie

Reply to
Julie P.
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Sounds like the act of turning the ignition a few times (maybe with a little wiggle(?)) could have excercised the wafers and jostled the key enough to slip past a waffer that probably had it trapped and stuck. Hard to know for sure, but good to hear it's been resolved for you.

Reply to
MThomas859

The rivets are sold by Marston Industries IN BOX'S!

That's the way we buy'em.

As for keys on a ring, you'll get many replies.

Our preference is ONLY the car key.

Why?

If a car jacking occurs, that's the only key taken. No other expense is incurred for lock changing, etc.

On the 2nd ring of keys, keep a spare door key for the car. Then, when you lock yourself out, you can get back in.

The TTD may have just banged the shifter enough to release it from the stuck position. Don't be supprised when it happens again!

Newnsie

Reply to
UPUHRS5437

Not much of a factor on GM ignitions.

Any good hardware store should have the steel rivets. They are very common.

Reply to
Putyourspamhere

auto body shop. sweet talk the guys and let them use the riveting gun to install them too.. it bounces really bad when the rivet pops.

--Shiva--

Reply to
--Shiva--

what about my car door/trunk key, and my two club keys? This way I could have all my car keys on the same ring. OTOH, if my club keys were on a separate ring, I could start the car to warm it up, and then remove my clubs

*while* it is warming up.

never thought of that possibility. Yes, he was a big guy, and when he got in the car to test the parking brake, he might have banged the shifter.

Reply to
Julie P.

thanks. I have tried Home Depot, Wal-Mart, NAPA, PepBoys, Advance Auto Parts, and a local auto parts store so far, and no one so far has steel rivets. Maybe I will try Lowes and Ace Hardware next.

Reply to
Julie P.

well, I need only one rivet. There were 5 originally, but I am using very small screws with nuts and locking washers for the rest, like M8 (since the smallest regular bolts made are 1/4", and I need 3/16"). I want bolts/screws so I can remove the seat belt brace easily if have to again. But I need one rivet since clearance is so tight for that one that a nut will not even fit over the bolt stud.

Reply to
Julie P.

Lowes here has them. Or try some of the small independently operated hardware stores where the employees actually have a clue and/or care what people actually need.

Reply to
Putyourspamhere

See if the parts department at the dealer has them as a onesy twosy basis.

Reply to
Roger Shoaf

onesy twosy basis.

in the tube, then

like to add. can also see an auto-body shop.

Reply to
Key

J.P.:

I'd recommend a liquid thread locking compound like Loctite on your bolts and screws to impede them loosening. You simply anoint the bolt and/or nut with the compound and tighten. Removing the fasteners then requires about 60 pounds foot torque which you can accomplish but vibration won't.

If you can't find the desired rivet, you might see if you have enough clearance to put on a flat "speed nut" on your bolt. These nuts often exhibit more holding power than a conventional nut inspite of their deceptively flimsy appearance.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

Reply to
Edward Hennessey

Naw. The dealer will want $5 a rivet. They really shouldn't be that tough to find in the hardware stores.

Reply to
Putyourspamhere

Probably the act of being towed jiggled the transmission linkage and freed the key. The lock cylinder won't release the key unless it senses that the transmission is in Park. If the linkage is slightly out of allignment, or one of the rubber bushings is worn, the lock senses the transmission is NOT in Park and traps the key. This is a safety percaution to prevent the user from removing the key while the vehicle is in motion thus locking the steering wheel. Another possibility is that the mechanic lubricated the linkage while the car was on the lift and that swelled the rubber bushings which aligned the linkage again.

If it ever happens again, open the hood, and pull on the likkage in the direction of the "Park" position. It will probably free the key.

Reply to
Me

Sears had both steel and aluminum, last I checked... but not necessarily in the size you're looking for.

Reply to
Joe Kesselman (yclept Keshlam

While I'm surprised that none of these have what you need - I imagine that they most all have steel rivets, just not in the diameter you need. If they all say they don't have "steel rivets" - I wonder if you are asking for "steel Pop rivets" and they understand you.

But I think the solution is to go to a real old-time hardware store, perhaps in the "industrial" area of your city.

Or you could go ahead and buy a box from Graingers and it would probably cost less than you've spent driving to all of these stores! :-)

Reply to
Henry E Schaffer

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