3/4 Round Corner Gage

****Ultimately you can get better cuts by ->NOT<- dismounting and remounting the part you are making multiple times. While it may be possible it increases the chance of operator induced error exponentially.****

Yes, I did take the part out to measure it. I used a height gage. The same one I use for measuring tool heights in tool holders for the CNC mills. By touching the TGP round surface and zeroing you can a quite accurate measurement. (I'm pretty sure I mentioned i started with a piece of TGP rod) The funny part here is I could have used that method in place on the mill, but I had already dismounted the part once. The mill table being pretty new is quite good enough. My results might have been better.

Since I cut it to final dimensions as stated by end milling and ->NOT<- side milling for practical reasons I could not measure it with the mic you and I both thought of without taking it out of the vise or by boring a large hole in the table of the mill. While I am not normally opposed to modifying expensive tools if it makes money I would have had a hard to justifying to myself making a large hole in the table so the barrel of the mic could hang down.

I took it out of the vise. I didn't have that mic anyway. I used a height gage on the surface plate.

I would also point out that I didn't watch ANYBODY'S video step by step as a tutorial. Its often counter productive as I rarely have exactly the same tools they have. I knew I needed one for the job, what tolerances I could live with, and I made one with the tools I had handy.

Yes, there were better methods of measurement. I used one, although I did not use it in the best way. The mic you and I both thought of was actually not one of them as the part would still have needed to be dismounted to use. Even if it would do the job I don't have one. Yes I have lots of gage blocks. Building a gage block stack would have been no better, and has no bearing on the fact that we both considered a tool that was not actually the optimum tool for the job even though it appear to be.

I'm not sure what the argument is here. I successfully made the part the tool was made for and have it on the front bench for packaging now. I detailed how it was not a perfect tool just for the edification of others. I pointed out how we both initially thought of the same measuring tool. I pointed out how that tool would not have been any better, and in fact the choice I made was better even if I didn't use it the best way. I even noted (in this post) what would have been the better way. What else is it you are trying to prove here? That I didn't do it exactly the same way as Clough? Okay. I didn't. He didn't make a perfect tool either. Just ask him. That I didn't make a perfect tool? Admitted already. That I didn't use the best method? Admitted. That you are smarter than me? Okay, maybe. That doesn't mean I'm not smart enough. That my method was a failure? I disagree. My part is not only finished its been tested. The holes in opposing pieces at a 45 degree angle line up and the pull pins (4 of them) drop in easily. 8 holes in 4 pieces had to line up 4 times. They do. The mold makes good castings (also tested). If I throw the gage away right after I hit send on this post I'm money ahead because the job got done.

If I offended you by pointing out I had considered the same tool and that I didn't agree it would have been ideal after I thought about it... sorry. I haven't change my mind though. Ultimately I think the reason I didn't get a "better" part was unrelated. I think as already detailed its because its was in a cheap vise.

Reply to
Bob La Londe
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****Ultimately you can get better cuts by ->NOT<- dismounting and remounting the part you are making multiple times. While it may be possible it increases the chance of operator induced error exponentially.****

Yes, I did take the part out to measure it. I used a height gage. The same one I use for measuring tool heights in tool holders for the CNC mills. By touching the TGP round surface and zeroing you can a quite accurate measurement. (I'm pretty sure I mentioned i started with a piece of TGP rod) The funny part here is I could have used that method in place on the mill, but I had already dismounted the part once. The mill table being pretty new is quite good enough. My results might have been better.

Since I cut it to final dimensions as stated by end milling and ->NOT<- side milling for practical reasons I could not measure it with the mic you and I both thought of without taking it out of the vise or by boring a large hole in the table of the mill. While I am not normally opposed to modifying expensive tools if it makes money I would have had a hard to justifying to myself making a large hole in the table so the barrel of the mic could hang down.

I took it out of the vise. I didn't have that mic anyway. I used a height gage on the surface plate.

I would also point out that I didn't watch ANYBODY'S video step by step as a tutorial. Its often counter productive as I rarely have exactly the same tools they have. I knew I needed one for the job, what tolerances I could live with, and I made one with the tools I had handy.

Yes, there were better methods of measurement. I used one, although I did not use it in the best way. The mic you and I both thought of was actually not one of them as the part would still have needed to be dismounted to use. Even if it would do the job I don't have one. Yes I have lots of gage blocks. Building a gage block stack would have been no better, and has no bearing on the fact that we both considered a tool that was not actually the optimum tool for the job even though it appear to be.

I'm not sure what the argument is here. I successfully made the part the tool was made for and have it on the front bench for packaging now. I detailed how it was not a perfect tool just for the edification of others. I pointed out how we both initially thought of the same measuring tool. I pointed out how that tool would not have been any better, and in fact the choice I made was better even if I didn't use it the best way. I even noted (in this post) what would have been the better way. What else is it you are trying to prove here? That I didn't do it exactly the same way as Clough? Okay. I didn't. He didn't make a perfect tool either. Just ask him. That I didn't make a perfect tool? Admitted already. That I didn't use the best method? Admitted. That you are smarter than me? Okay, maybe. That doesn't mean I'm not smart enough. That my method was a failure? I disagree. My part is not only finished its been tested. The holes in opposing pieces at a 45 degree angle line up and the pull pins (4 of them) drop in easily. 8 holes in 4 pieces had to line up 4 times. They do. The mold makes good castings (also tested). If I throw the gage away right after I hit send on this post I'm money ahead because the job got done.

If I offended you by pointing out I had considered the same tool and that I didn't agree it would have been ideal after I thought about it... sorry. I haven't change my mind though. Ultimately I think the reason I didn't get a "better" part was unrelated. I think as already detailed its because its was in a cheap vise.

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

After watching this discussion , I have decided to interrupt my current project - a fixture to sharpen the ends of end mills - to make one of these . Beats trying to figure out why the truck won't run well . I'm about to just buy an Edelbrock to put on it . The Holley is just pissin' me off .

Reply to
Snag

After watching this discussion , I have decided to interrupt my current project - a fixture to sharpen the ends of end mills - to make one of these . Beats trying to figure out why the truck won't run well . I'm about to just buy an Edelbrock to put on it . The Holley is just pissin' me off .

Snag "You can lead a dummy to facts but you can't make him think."

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I found weak V8 cylinders by dribbling water on the exhaust manifold and comparing the drying rates. A thermal imager to more easily identify hot and cold areas of equipment and the house insulation is on order, my birthday present. I hope it can reveal yellowjacket nests in the ground.

In the 90's I used the company's thermal and near infrared imagers on electronics but couldn't justify the high price. I solved a problem of uneven heat transfer by the ancient method of filing and scraping to fit, which goes quickly on aluminum. The overheating component's warped heatsink was too thin to flycut and I didn't want to tell the engineer his prized find was defective. That was the only satellite project I was ever invited to participate in and I did a lot of extra machining at home to stay on it. My usual jobs were on ground support equipment like portable terminals.

I'd like to know how you made the endmill fixture when you finish. I gamed several ways to copy mine with the equipment on hand but didn't really like the insecure dual angled clamping.

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

Last night I ordered an Edelbrock 600 cfm w/electric choke . The guy is going to buy both of the Holleys as cores for a c-note each ... I think most of the problems I'm having are due to excessively rich idle/low speed mix . This motor has just had a complete rebuild ...including some performance enhancing parts . Has like maybe 20 miles on it , plus a couple of hours idling/tuning .

The collet holder was the easy part ... The block was machined by laying it on a wood block I cut on my chop saw , 5° on the length with a

2° tilt to one side . once I established that plane I machined both long sides perpendicular to the bottom side , then used those flats and some tweaking to machine the 20° portion of the bottom . Short ends are squared to the top surface . I'll be boring the hole with the top flat on a drive plate on the lathe . I'm not sure why you think the clamping is insecure . The only clamping that I think might be a problem is clamping the block to the drive plate for the boring operation , and I think I have that figured out . I'll be using the rotary table to make the indexing dimples in the collet holder and to drill and tap the collet lock screw hole . Won't even have to square it on the mill table for these operations ...
Reply to
Snag

I'm not sure why you think the clamping is insecure . The only clamping that I think might be a problem is clamping the block to the drive plate for the boring operation , and I think I have that figured out . I'll be using the rotary table to make the indexing dimples in the collet holder and to drill and tap the collet lock screw hole . Won't even have to square it on the mill table for these operations ... Snag

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The method I suggested was kinematically accurate for the angles but gave the block only point and line contact that might deform under clamping and machining force and let the block slip. Your angled wood fixture should allow more secure clamping.

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

Excellent choice. I've run a few Holley carbs, and found they run best if you tinker with them between every speed run. Even if the change is to the adjustment you set it for three runs ago. LOL

Reply to
Bob La Londe

I like to tinker but ... I just haven't been able to get this thing tinkered to the point where it's reliable . I ordered an Edelbrock 1604

600 CFM last night . Only thing I haven't figured out yet is which bracket to use for the throttle/transmission cables .
Reply to
Snag

Likely I'll pick one up at some point and have similar usage. Rare cases.

Reply to
Bob La Londe

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