I have a chance to pick up a SB lathe in good working shape (1) Lathe with switch, motor assembly and flat belt
with the following tooling (1) 4 jaw chuck (1) 3 jaw chuck (1) large faceplate (1) small faceplate (1) lantern style tool post and several assorted cutting bit holders (Armstrong/Williams type) (1) Milling attachment (1) steady rest (1) carriage stop (1) threading dial (1) drill chuck mounted on an arbor for use in the tailstock
They are asking $1,150 for the lathe alone, or $1,950 for everything together.
Does anyone have a good feel for the market value of this. If I offer
I bought a lathe similar to ebay auction 330000509840, with all of the above that you mentioned except threading dial and milling attachment, for $350. The total deal was $850, IIRC, and included a Clausing 8530 mill.
That was, of course, a good deal. A more sensible deal that is fair to the buyer and seller would be, say, $700 for the lathe with all the stuff. My point it, this $1950 price is no deal and I would not even bother to talk to the seller.
YOu need to haunt ebay for some comps. The tooling as listed is worth basically nothing with the exception of the milling attachment. Those numbers are I think full freight and for you to consider it, the machine should be in stellar shape (ie, completely unworn) and nearby under power so you can run it yourself.
What model is this? It had better be a model A, if it's change gears then they are smoking crack I would say.
You've heard from two guys who live where there are tons of machine tools going begging. If and only if the lathe is a Model A (quickchange) with no visible wear on the ways, cross-slide lead screw/nut with less than .015" of backlash, and a bed that can swing at least a 24" piece between centers, also a motor that is quiet and smooth and fully wired, a turnkey, then it might fetch $1150 but $850 is more like it. The milling attachment would probably bring $250 on ebay, the large faceplate about $80, the "small faceplate" (probably the dog driver plate) about $20, steady rest if telescoping type about $130 else $85. No. 2 Morse taper 1/2" chuck, probably $30, threading dial dunno, say $40, carriage stop dunno say $40, base lathe package should include chucks, lantern toolholder and toolbits and tailstock chuck. Alone, the (probably nearly worn out) chucks and the (generally disdained) lantern toolpost and holders might bring another $60. Say parting out price for the tooling is $650. Still doesn't add up.
$1700 would be my absolute high offer, and then only if I were feeling really flush and completely desperate for a lathe, and only if this were an exceptional lathe. Where you are located is a big deal.
On the other hand, suppose you buy the machine and later become convinced you overpaid by perhaps $150? The question is do you have a personality that could live with that? After all, you aren't buying a price, you're buying a lathe, and the 9" South Bend is arguably the most desirable hobby lathe in this country. They are simple machines and parts are readily available. I suggest you completely avoid a Model C (no powerfeeds) and bid about $400 less if it's a Model B (no quickchange, has power X,Y feeds). Those machines are distinctly less sought after. Don't be suckered into thinking it's a trivial upgrade to make a C into a B or A. It isn't, not hardly.
If you don't know how to tell if the chucks or spindle bearings are worn, or if the spindle's bent, or if there is excessive backlash in the cross-slide, post back.
The sad thing is that someone with lots of money wouldn't have a problem dropping 2k on the package if he thought it would meet his needs and keep him from dicking around on ebay for a couple of months trying to find the loose ends.
When I was looking for a lathe, the first prospect looked real good until I showed up and was informed by the owner that there were 3 more guys on their way and once they got there, he'd take the highest bid. I left.
Might not be a bad deal depending on several factors not considered by the other respondent. Is it an "A" or "C" type; what is the bed length; what's the condition of it? In some areas, machinery is not as valuable as others. I doubt that many places would avail one of a 30" to 36" between centers with qc gear box in nice condition with tooling for under a grand. Rarely, but not often and usually quite a bit more in many locations where machinery doesn't grow on trees. Bottom line, what is it worth to you? Respectfully, Ron Moore
Ah, I thought it was a local machine. Is this an ebay sale? Is the seller a dealer, or not?
Best case situation is when you can find a machine locally.
Haunt the classified ads, send out word of mouth that you are in the market. See if there's any local voc-tech school nearby where you can take night classes - if only to meet the like-minded folks and network with them.
The best way to buy a lathe is start hanging around guys who have two or three of them in their basement. They might no sell you theirs, but they sure know how to go about finding one.
Don't even think about it, especially if you want to be able to go back to manual. You'd need to install a special ballscrew in place of the leadscrew, and then how would you go back?
Well, *if* you are an expert, maybe it might make sense. I suggest you learn how to run a little lathe, and think about a CNC mill. When you are completely familiar with converting a mill to CNC and with CNC in general, then you'd be better equipped to start thinking about converting a lathe.
I see a 9" SB in the St. Louis craigslist, must be the one. That one says it's a quickchange which means it's a Model A. That's the one for $1200 which is close to your stripped price.
I'd go look at it. Even if you don't wind up buying it, at least you'll get to meet the guy. Metalworking buddies are like gold, hard to find and valuable.
I think the real issue here is that the machine is question is basically unknown. Nobody knows if its a model A, what the bed length is, what condition it's in, if it's even running.
It's not local to the gent and he's not able to get more information about it. *Any* lathe has to be a pass under those circumstances. Sure you might pass up the $500 10EE that's mint, but chances are, it's gonna be some other sort of animal....
SB 9" machines are hardly ever converted to NC use. If you are serious about this you might consider a hardinge DV59 which can be converted via an Omni-turn retrofit. The lathe itself is quite common, the retrofit will cost some money though.
If you are serious about this, contact Mark Weber aka Gunner on this forum.
Grant's advice about the approximate value on the bits is spot on BTW.
Not at all. This guy lives in St. Louis, and this is a machine local to St. Louis that he can go look, run, sniff, bargain etc. Not AT ALL like ebay. On ebay you have no idea whatever and you have to plunk your money down and pay a godawful amount of shipping. That's what keeps ebay prices down. On a torque wrench, sure. On a machine tool, no way, local prices are and will continue to be higher than ebay. As they should.
Same with rare musical instruments. Nobody would pay $30k for a 1961 Fender Stratocaster on ebay but there is one hanging on the wall of my local Guitar Center and you know what? They'll get it, or close to it.
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