Carving that flange out of solid is going to be wasteful and
expensive. A weldement, or a silver soldered assembly, out of steel,
would be more economical. That would only require solid stock a bit
larger than the large end of the shaft, and appropriate thicknesses of
sheet or plate stock for the round and square flanges.
Digging out a 6 or so inch deep hole is a bit of a stretch on a
minilathe or minimill. Whether you use steel or aluminum, you come up
short of room.
I'm with Trevor on this...
A good silver brased weldment for the main shaft would make this a cinch,
Same thing for the flat plate with the 'ears' in the hole, I'd bore/drill
(or what ever) the hole, and silver brase in the ears and then clean it all
And I'd probably make it all outt a CRS...
They COULD be so made..with some secondary ops after the fact, like
broaching the keyways and so forth.
It would take you at least 15 hours in a well equipped manual shop if
you knew what you were doing. A VERY well equipped shop.
How many do you need? I can suggest a number of good production shops
that could turn these out for you, and send them out for broaching and
so forth. All done on CNC and so forth.
"A prudent man foresees the difficulties ahead and prepares for them;
the simpleton goes blindly on and suffers the consequences."
- Proverbs 22:3
right now i need 8 made, maybe many more in the near future. i've
made 4 myself already using an existing wheel flange that already has
the key-way, i redrill the holes and weld on a 6" pipe. the rest is
done with a 3 " die grinder w/cutting wheel and a drill press.
pics of two i just finished here:
the problem is:
1. i don''t know where to get more wheel flages
2. it's alot of frickin work making them this way.
i was hoping a could plunk down a few grand on a desktop cnc machine
and make a cad drawing, push a button and presto!
sure gunner recommend some shops.
thanks for all the advice so far.
You can do that, if you're mechanically inclined, reasonably intelligent,
and have at least 5 years of experience (25 would be better). :)
If those are the only parts you want to make, and you're trying to get it
done cheap, hire it done.
If you're looking for a life long hobby, and think you would enjoy doing it
yourself, get out your checkbook cause it ain't going to be cheap.
If you like the idea of the hobby, enroll in a machine tool tech class in
your area. After you've learned what you need to know, enroll again so you
can use their equipment without buying your own.
You really ARE going to have a look at the price range of a CNC lathe
that will be able to fit that part in it!
You got a really big desk?
The machine is just one part of the equation. Tooling, software, and
learning curve for the whole package.
yeah i guess it was a bit of a fantasy. ;p but i have no idea whats
available these days and have never used a lathe or mill before.
i saw this one on ebay:
and thought maybe there was something like that available to lathe and
mill a piece from a cad/cam drawing. i guess i'm going to have to
find a cnc shop.
anybody ever used these guys: http://www.emachineshop.com/ ?
Maybe you should think about an old clapped out mill/drill CNC lathe like
It will easily do what you want if it runs. Except for the I.D. key way
that is. But that is easy enough to put in with any old press you can lay
your hands on.
There's a better looking one on Ebay, but they want a lot more money for
The problem is with low quantity orders is they will be expen$ive.
I doubt that a mini-mill and tiny lathe would be capable of (or helpful
for) producing the parts shown in the pictures.
A larger benchtop mill could be helpful, with the addition of a rotary
table and numerous other accessories. With a considerable amount of
time and work involved in fabricating jigs/fixtures, the fabrication of
the parts from raw stock could be accomplished by manually machining
most of the features except the broach and the internal tabs in the
The best (or fastest, easiest, cheapest) methods to fabricate the part
depend *a lot* on how much accuracy is required. Another major
consideration would be the required strength of the finished part..
torque, load etc.
You might consider aluminun (new one there) to be a better material for
weight, but the initial raw material costs could be excessive, compared
to mild steel.
It's not clear (to me, anyway) if the square flange needs to be able to
be disengaged from the tube notches, or if it could just be welded to
I see long hex head screws laying in the pile of parts 'n tools. Since
the holes in the square plate and the smaller holes in the hub flange
appear to be aligned, maybe this is a bolted assembly (for unknown
You might want to consider trying to source off-the-shelf/stocked
individual components, and combining them to complete the part, with a
minimum amount of machining, and the minimum amount of mis-alignment of
the individual parts (pressing them together, with the addition of
pins, Loctite or other means), or a tolerable amount of mis-alignment
due to welding distortion.
The 2" broached section should be available from a variety of sources
as a finished part (coupler, sprocket hub etc.).
The round flange could be available as a weldable steel pipe flange or
part intended for other purposes.
The tube is probably available, and would need to be cut to length, and
maybe notched by cutting and grinding.
The square plate isn't particularly difficult, although the internal
tabs could be problematic if they are absolutely necessary (to
disengage, maybe). This part would most likely be punched in a
manufacturing environment, but neither the mini-mill or lathe would
simplify fabrication of this part as shown, in my opinion.
I dunno how much the finished assembly is worth, or how much the
individual parts may cost. There would be a cost point where there
would be no profit (or practicality) invloved, considering the time
involved to complete the final version.
There are numerous suppliers of hubs in the U.S., and some discount
surplus suppliers, such as Small Engine Distributors
Fabrication using individual parts would most likely involve welding,
which will introduce some distortion in the alignment of the parts. The
hub flange could be trued by turning the asembly in a lathe, but I
think a mini-late is too small, although a 9x20" lathe should be
adequate. Unfortunately, the lathe might not provide much more
usefulness for this particular assembly.
pat tallino wrote:
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