Alternative Battery LR44

I seem to recall a conversation a while back some of you guys mentioning another battery in place of the LR44 with a lot longer life. I never really
worried about it before. I just used the LR44s for my laser pointer for playing with the cats, but I recently picked up a digital caliper and it came with an LR44.
What was that other battery?
P.S. I could not find an affordable (ok cheap) dial caliper with a metric dial. Lots of metrics out there, but the dials on all the ones I looked at had .001 inch gradations. I actually prefer a dial caliper, but I needed a metric one right now for some measurements where I didn't want to have to slow down and multiply constantly to get the metric conversions.
On a positive note. I did want a caliper that would do inch fractional for a while, and this cheap digital will do that too.
I guess I can always stock up on LR44s. It will make the cats happy. LOL.
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I'm no battery expert, but for snots & giggles went to Radio Shack's web site and put LR44 in the search box... it returned this:
http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=lr44&origkw=lr44&s r=1
Good luck!
Erik
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    Your choice -- SR44 or SR357 -- both are silver oxide, and interchangeable. And -- for ease of remembering, both are revolver magnum calibers. They cost more than the LR versions, but the nuisance value of the batteries dying frequently makes up for a lot.

    I've got a metric Starrett which I bought *new* back in the 1970s or so. (No, it is not for sale. :-)

    One of the reasons for digital calipers.

    I've not had one of those. Is that the one with the larger digits, too?

    You let them play with the old cells, or the blister packs which they came in? it Could be bad news if they swallowed the cells.
    Enjoy,         DoN.
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I can't comment on longer life, but I think AG-13 is the same. Any case, try Ebay, or Froogle. They can't be that gosh awful expensive. Maybe HF has them?
I got a cat laser that runs on two AAA cells, from Ebay. I have a lot of fun with it. I claim to use it for pointing at work, but it's really a cat laser.
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SR44
wrote:

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wrote:

If cheap is your only requirement: http://www.dealextreme.com/p/analog-150mm-caliper-6199
Quality may not be the best, though.

You can get those the same place: http://s.dealextreme.com/search/lr44.html?category@0
--
RoRo

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Robert Roland wrote:

The problem with that one is it's 2mm per revolution. The bar is marked in cm with 4 ticks between each. So to get the mm you have to count ticks, multiply by 2 & add the dial reading. High resolution, but a nuisance. I'd rather rather have one with 1 cm per revolution.
Bob
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Bob La Londe wrote:

Take the battery out of the caliper when you aren't using it and they will last a decent amount of time.
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I believe it's been mentioned that the LR types are alkaline.. and IME, the cheap ones often go bad just sitting in a drawer, but many have a short shelf life (unlike better quality AAA to D alkaline cells). I've bought the very cheap bulk, no-name, flea market LR44 10 or 20 packs from various sources in the past, and they were the worst.
A couple of years ago the Big Lots stores started stocking a better variety of small cells, and I found the silver oxide SR44 cells in a blister pack of 5 for under $2.. but I think the cost was a little higher the last time I got a few packs. But the SRs are branded (not Ever/Dura) and have dates on the packaging, so it's fairly easy to see that they aren't just salvaged freight which may have been sitting around for a couple of years.
These SRs far outlast even a brand-name LR cell. I put them in anything that uses 44/13 size cells. I take the digital caliper batteries out when I put it back in the case.. there are round cut-out holes in the foam to store them, or some cut-outs can be cut to hold 1-2 extra cells. Marking the battery cover with a bright paint pen helps to prevent it from getting misplaced.
I keep intending to install a tiny switch (from a small LED light or other little gizmo) to be able to shut the power off when not using the calipers, but removing the batteries isn't so inconvenient.. losing the battery cover would be.
--
WB
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Wild_Bill wrote:
(...)

Little switches tend to die early. Ask Palm about that. :)
I like an elastomer carbon button driven by a threaded knob that makes contact between the '+' side of the button cell and the caliper cell contact instead:
| <---- Caliper | '+' contact ---- | /--------- <-- Single sided .---. | |.--------. Flex PCB | | | || | interposer | | | || .. | P | | || || | o | /\/.-.|| || | w |-\/\/| ||| || | e | | ||| || | r | | | | || Caliper | | | | | Button || '-' contact | K | | | | || | n |-\/\/| | | Cell || | o | /\/'-' | || | b | | | || | | | | || | | | | || '---' | | '' | | | | '--------'
(created by AACircuit v1.28.6 beta 04/19/05 www.tech-chat.de)
--Winston
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Very good idea, Winston.. it hadn't occurred to me to integrate something into the battery cover, and your solution is ingenious in terms of simplifying the modification.
I guess that's why I hadn't added a switch to the cable plug cover (on the top side), which would require removing material from the cover, opening the display housing and various other steps.. the big one being that the calipers still work reliably after being reassembled.
--
WB
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Wild_Bill wrote:

Thanks, Bill.

If you captured the battery cover to your CAD program, you could create a version of it that included a brass insert for a 3 mm screw. Scrap a keyboard for the carbon button and you are almost done: http://www.pcguide.com/ref/kb/const/switchRubber-c.html
Keep us posted, please.
--Winston
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Heheh.. you funny, man. My CAD consists of a mechanical pencil and printer paper. Software and I are mostly incompatible.
A threaded shoulder on top of the cover wouldn't be too difficult with a salvaged brass insert from an old plastic-encased product, and maybe a little epoxy.
In lookin over the sichyation, it looks as though the + battery terminal could maybe be trimmed and used like a switch contact with a little lever utilized to move a tab, to either (a) act as an insulator in the off position, lifts in the on position (b) move the contact away from the battery in the off position, move the contact to the battery in the on position.
Your threaded solution wouldn't rely on the durability of the Chinese soldering, which is always suspect.
One drawback I see to removing the battery between uses, is that the cavities can get dust/debris in there when the cover remains off. I can see this in the small caliper I keep stored next to my desk, which is a fairly clean area.
Will do.
--
WB
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Wild_Bill wrote:

I was too, until I tried Rhino3D. Just another happy customer!

Good Hack! If the knob were hollow on the back side, you could place the threaded area so that the knob almost completely encloses it. Clean.

Yup. I was considering using the flexibility of the PCB as a spring, with a double sided board in the area of the cell's + surface. Clockwise=on.

Yup.
Which is not nearly as aggravating as losing the cover. :)

This will be cool!
--Winston
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wrote:

Not all of us have ten Benjies to throw at a pencil problem.
Anyone use BobCAD? One of the CNC kits of stepper motors + a Gecko G540 I'm eyeing on eBay has Mach3 and BobCAD v21 bundled with it.
-- Do not let your fire go out, spark by irreplacable spark.
In the hopeless swamps of the not quite, the not yet, and the not at all, do not let the hero in your soul perish and leave only frustration for the life you deserved, but never have been able to reach.
The world you desire can be won, it exists, it is real, it is possible, it is yours. -- Ayn Rand
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Larry Jaques wrote:

I'm interested in your opinion of it: http://www.bobcad.com/demo?download=V24%20CAD-CAM
--Winston
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wrote:

That's the demo of the newest version. What I refer to is probably the Express of the old v21, which is probably good enough for router services.
Has anyone here used BobCAD v21 or v21 Express? I'd like to hear about your opinions and experiences.
I once thought I'd won a copy after filling out an entry form for a raffle with a fresh copy as the prize. They called a week later and my heart stopped...until I found out that I hadn't won squat. They just wanted to see if I had $1,500 (a $700 savings!) to try it out anyway. I gritted my teeth, deleted my expletives, and said "Uh, no."
-- Do not let your fire go out, spark by irreplacable spark.
In the hopeless swamps of the not quite, the not yet, and the not at all, do not let the hero in your soul perish and leave only frustration for the life you deserved, but never have been able to reach.
The world you desire can be won, it exists, it is real, it is possible, it is yours. -- Ayn Rand
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Larry Jaques wrote:
(...)

Ouch.
2D CAD is worlds better than a drawing board IMHO. If you can buy a copy of Generic CADD from days of yore, you can use it's license number to get a huge discount on Visual CADD 6 ($150 instead of $450): http://www.visualcadd.com /
--Winston
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Winston Inscribed thus:

Draftsight runs on Linux and Winblows, and its free for personal use !
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wrote:

I stared out using Draftsight, but found the learning curve far too difficult. There isn't enough Draftsight documentation for a new user to figure it out, so I started reading the AutoCAD documentation, as Draftsight speaks perfect AutoCAD. It's *very* complex, with curliques accumulated over the years.
So I talked to the MEs (mechanical engineers) at work. They said that AutoCAD dominates the Architecture field, where it started, but had a very long learning curve, and is 2D (with later 3D additions). Pro-E was used for large-scale projects (with millions of pieces), is 3D, but was impossible to use unless you used it for a living.
What the MEs used and recommended for home use was Alibre, which is 3D from the start, and is a fairly clean new design. So I bought a personal-use copy for $200 or so, and made more progress in two weeks than I had made with DraftSight in many months. So, I abandoned Draftsight, and stopped reading the thick AutoCAD books.
Joe Gwinn
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