Anti rust

Jan 02, 2013 36 Replies

...

Yep, that works great. Bicycle drive chains, too. An easy application method is to heat the chains, and wipe 'em down with a wax-impregnated rag (the hot metal gets a tenacious film of wax, that freezes solid as it cools). I mix in a little beeswax or cheese wax to make paraffin wax stickier.

"Michael A. Terrell" on Thu, 03 Jan 2013

12:20:57 -0500 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

I suspect that Gunner would only offer to help normal, or normal appearing, people. Raving loons, or frothy liberalth - in the words of the Old Philosopher "Stay away. Stay very far away."

"This is the chain of command. It is the chain I beat you with until you follow my commands."

Arf arf. How the f*ck would either of you (assuming you aren't the same f****it) know what a normal person looks like? Gunner for example thinks it's normal to have a roof plugged with catshit. And to spend his life on the Internet using the catshit for an excuse for not installing a stove. As opposed to getting off his ass and solving the problem. Odds are that you're equally helpless and equally too abnormal to realize how obvious it is.

Think 10' tree branch and something to hook to the bumper of the truck to lift with.

The methodology of the left has always been:

  1. Lie
  2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
  3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
  4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
  5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
  6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

It's more fun to use a blue wrench to remove the connecting metal that holds the front end from the trunk. ;-)

I was suggesting hanging a leftwinger by the neck using the chain..and slowly pulling the vehicle forwards to lift them up..up..up towards the heavens!

Ever try to lift a fat guy with a chain tossed around a tree limb? It cant be easy.

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

  1. Lie
  2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
  3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
  4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
  5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
  6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

That's what bumper mounted winches were invented for. THEN you cut the car in half so that another fat loser doesn't try to put it back on the road and cause yet another accident. ;-)

100' of 1/4" aircraft cable would be a better carry, methinks. IF you really wanted to pull them out. ;)

Doesnt have the shock loading capability of 3/8 chain. Seriously.

Ive got some 3/8" and 1/2" steel cable as well, but it doesnt fit very well in an ammo can

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

  1. Lie
  2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
  3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
  4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
  5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
  6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

I had an entire spool of guy wire the power company abandonded on our property after they dropped it off their truck & split the spool open. Word got out that I had a mile of the stuff, and guys were bugging me for peices so I gave it to them for all their schemes. The best was the guy who told me that he wanted somme for a fence line, then tried to use it on a homemade wrecker. He was lucky he wasn't in the cab when he tried it.

Not necessarily. You can wrap a chain without cutting whatever you wrapped in half. How are you going to connect to the load vehicle and the tow vehicle??

Also, 1/4" 7/19 galvanized cable has a break strength of 7000 lbs, stainless 5308 lbs.. So galv is good for 1800, and stainless about

1300 lbs.

1/4 inch GR30 proof coil (commercial chain) is the same strength as the stainless cable - 5200 breaking - 1300 working load limit - not lifting. 5/16" is the same strength as the galvanized cable.

If a cable snaps, it is DEADLY. A chain is also dangerous - but it doesn't take much to damp it to safety - just throw a blanket over it or tie a tire to it. Cable is more unpredictable.

My choice for recovery is a strap.

I carry a 2" yellow ratchet strap, which rolls up small and doesn't rattle. The strap is rated for 10,000 Lbs, not sure about the ratchet. I tested it by hooking the end to a tree and pulling my truck into a packed snowbank. The ratchet applies about a thousand pounds of tension. When I have to muscle a vehicle out of a hole by myself I place rocks behind the wheels where they will roll into the hole and retain forward progress.

So learn a smoother pull, suckah.

Ooh, crack that whip and take the top of the cab right off, whydoncha?

Ah, good tip. I'll have to remember that. I've filled up the holes with dirt/mud/sand, but it wasn't nearly as effective.

I have a 2" yellow tow strap with hardened hooks in the strap bag, but I usually have one of those 2" ratchets in the truck, too. Both HF.

The only time I've ever had to be towed out is the week I bought my last truck (my first new vehicle) and my girlfriend and I were touring the CA coast. I drove it all the way down Pismo Beach without problem. But just as I had to turn around at the very end, 4.2 miles from the entrance, a high wave had just washed over the area and I sunk in as soon as I turned the wheel. It had been firm sand up until 45 seconds before.

Luckily, a fisherman in a little Datsun 4WD pickup was right there. I had some motorcycle tiedown straps with me so, after breaking them twice, they held the 3rd time. I'd had to let some air out of the tires and dig sand out the front, but we got it in about 15 minutes. A nice guy, he wouldn't even accept money for it.

If you can cut bumper braces in half with cable, you'd better quit buying those ObamaMotors cars.

And carry 4 (or more) cable clamps, silly. It takes 5 minutes to install 4.

But

Mine, too, but cable can be handy. Just don't jerk it and don't overtax it. For the most part, if a vehicle is stuck enough to snap a cable, it'll take a wrecker to get it out anyway. Since both vehicles will be running (or you'd have called a wrecker anyway), the cable will be enough to do the job. Install the spare if needed before trying to move the vehicle. Chop down any small trees in the way, clear away rocks and debris, etc. 'Taint rocket surgery.

Just be smarter than the cable and don't snap it, eh? Simple!

Ayup. The yellow straps can be had at any Home Depot for about $14 tax included. I keep 4 of them in a 20mm ammo can mounted to the side of my utility trailer and one under the front seat.

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

  1. Lie
  2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
  3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
  4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
  5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
  6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

The BIGGEST problem with cable is you can have fatigued or damaged strands in the cable - and wrapping cable around a frame is a REAL GOOD way to damage strands. A cable should NEVER be run directly against the load/pin/hook. A "thimble" should ALWAYS be used.. NEVER trust a cable wrapped around a frame member or fastened to a pin or clevis without a thimble. No rigger would even think of it (most won't use cables period except on the winch), nor would a tow truck operator. That's what chains, straps and clevises are for. Kink a cable - throw it away. ( and yes, I build airplanes, and yes I have operated a wrecker)

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required