Any advice Before I break something else?

If they are the Jacobs style then the outer sleeve is pressed on over the body. Before I took mine apart a check on the Jacobs website gave some good advice. Before pressing set the chuck about mid way between full open and tight closed. Turn a sleeve to fit and press away, took only reasonable force in my case.

Jack

Thank you! Using the additional keyword "press" in Google found a site with good pictures. Much better; I probably would have scored the things into uselessness by twisting them.

BTW, the site was

There is a webpage that I can't seem to locate, that shows disassembly pictures/steps for Jacobs chucks. Many common chucks are of the same design. The URL is something like oldiron or vintageiron, maybe. Maybe someone has seen it recently and can post a link.

The basic procedure is to extend the jaws loosely, and use a section of tubing around the body to press off the outer section. A large vise or small press are suitable for the procedure.

There will most likely be a tapered-threaded ring inside that needs to be kept righ-side-up.. wider opening up.

The jaw positions need to be maintained, so if there are no obvious markings on them, you should mark the tops of them with 1-2-3 and remember if the numbering is CW or CCW (anti-clockwise to some folks).

Assembly is a reverse procedure.

WB ...............

There is a webpage that I can't seem to locate, that shows disassembly pictures/steps for Jacobs chucks. Many common chucks are of the same design. The URL is something like oldiron or vintageiron, maybe. Maybe someone has seen it recently and can post a link.

The basic procedure is to extend the jaws loosely, and use a section of tubing around the body to press off the outer section. A large vise or small press are suitable for the procedure.

There will most likely be a tapered-threaded ring inside that needs to be kept righ-side-up.. wider opening up.

The jaw positions need to be maintained, so if there are no obvious markings on them, you should mark the tops of them with 1-2-3 and remember if the numbering is CW or CCW (anti-clockwise to some folks).

Assembly is a reverse procedure.

WB ...............

I have just taken a hacksaw to the cheap drill chuck that came on the cheap drill press and that seems to be the olny way to take it apart.

The brand name is San Ou, and the body looks like it has a black-oxide finish, contrasted with the ground finish of the other parts.

It's not like a real jacobs chuck. The "body" is made of sheet metal which must have been pressed around the toothed ring to grip it, and I think it was rounded over at the base of the chuck where the female taper is.

The jaws on mine had many breaks in the teeth; the broken bits were mixed in with the grease, and it was a total loss - I suspected that was so when I decided to go the hacksaw route, and a local hardware place has jt33 chucks on sale, so I'm off to have a look.

On Sun, 09 Jan 2005 15:40:17 -0500, Peter T. Keillor III calmly ranted:

Man, someone should clean and oil/wax their anvil. Good site otherwise.

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Good thing that you didn't try that hard enough to move it, as it is all one piece of metal from the back rim to the key holes. :-)

Actually, you should prepare two sleeves -- one to fit around the back of the body for pressing the keyed sleeve forward, and the other to fit around the front part of the body for pressing the keyed sleeve back into place.

And it will *look* as though you have broken a ring in there -- the ring which contains the threads which advance/retract the jaws. They were made as a single piece, with two narrow places, hardened (and probably lapped somewhat), and then broken so they could be fitted into the groove in which they rotate. They are held together by the press fit of the keyed sleeve, and the two broken ends key into each other.

I used a 1/2 ton arbor press for them last time I did it, though I now have a 3 ton one.

Enjoy, DoN.