Anybody got lengths of RG8x or 58A coax?

Im getting ready to install radios (VHF marine and CB) in my sailboats and am needing at least 100-200 feet of the above coax. Looking for
cheap prices/swap/trade
Gunner
"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child, miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied, demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless. Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats." PJ O'Rourke
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You know it doesn't age gracefully, yes? LLoyd
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On Sun, 01 Mar 2015 06:50:05 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"

I've got several 35 foot chunks of full sheilded 6 up here in Ontario Canada, but you can buy it in Cali for less than the shipping cost form Ontario Canada.
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wrote:

Premade 100' cables are $20+16/30+10s/h ($36-40 each) on eBay. Got PL-259s and crimpers? Make one stretch.
But, yeah, $5 for a hank of cable would be a much nicer deal. Water seems to be the deciding factor on longevity of the coax. Keep the ends dry and they'll last a long time.
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UV affects them, too (not only the 'brittleness' of the sheath, but the plasticizers and solvents that work their way into the core, changing the characteristic impedance). Once IN the mast, that's not a problem (only moisture, then), but how was it stored/kept prior? If it's not virgin cable from a reputable source, you just don't know.
I guess it depends upon whether this is a project to make the boat "sellable", or if it's an attempt to maximize propagation.
Lloyd
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wrote:

Do they make whips for console radios? You don't really need the height for local chat. 1' and 3' whips run from $15 on up.
Will these work?
http://tinyurl.com/mrwckra
http://tinyurl.com/popbjpl
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wrote:

I can't imagine what you want a wind speed transmitter for, but a simple wind vane type of wind direction gizmo is a good addition.
But I think that you are building in a lot of complexities. You can easily put a wind vane on the mast head as well as a whip antenna. Run the antenna feed down the inside of the mast and out through a grommeted hole 6 - 12 inches from the bottom. Terminate the feed with a coax connector. Run the feed from your radio through the deck close to the mast fitting on the cabin top through a compression gland and terminate in the other end of the connection. http://anchormarineshop.com/s/1/p/147512 Take it apart to lower the mast.
I used foam core RG-8 on my last boat that lasted for 15 years with no noticeable loss in power.
Re single handing. Certainly run the sheets back to the cockpit but I found that trying to run every line back to the cockpit wasn't all it was cracked up to be. Routing the halyards through several blocks and changing direction a couple of times means that they get hard to pull and you might need a winch to tension the main. If the idea is to douse the sails quickly in a sudden storm then you will need downhauls on the sails as in a big wind they can't be depended on to come down and stay down by themselves.
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wrote:

Yeah, I wondered about the termination connector. <g>

How far away from the mast does the antenna have to be? Could you put it close to the mast (just forward) and maybe put a guide around it to keep the genoa or jib off it?

Prolly not more than $8 or $10k, eh?

Like cup holders?

Who needs diapers and other noise on a sailboat?

Welll, clams for running lines through the top of the cabin are available all over the place. Being on the roof, it is as far from the water as possible, and clams are rainproof, wot? ;)

The older I get, the less I listen to music. I prefer the silence (or my tinnitus) to noise any day. I got out some records the other week and realized it had been about a year since I listened to any. Once I broke the TV habit, music was next. I do listen to music in the truck, though. But on long trips, I often go hours without. Earplugs in and pedal to the metal. YeeeeeHaw! <g>

You can get a nice portable 120w solar setup w/ controller for $235. Well, plus battery and wiring. Speaking of batteries, I'd been wondering how long it had been since I replaced my Tundra battery. I don't remember doing it in the past 4 years, so I figured it was getting time. Well, upon opening the hood, I found that it was the original 2007 battery in there. I grabbed a new one (84mo Premium) for $69 and decided to add the old one to the solar setup I have for the rest of its lifetime. The core ding is only $12, and if it doesn't last, I can always return it for the core charge. That's one good battery!

My time for that is fast approaching. <sigh> Best of luck wi dat. I understand that finding a good person to reline them is the key to a happy life after dentures. (I don't doubt that we'll do that fitting and relining ourselves in the near future. Do you?)
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You wear diapers, Gunner? <G>
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I'll let you off the hook. I re-punctuated it for you to make it read that way. It just struck me as funny.
Lloyd
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typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

    As I heard the stories, after the wall fell, and everybody was heading East to make their fortune, the one group which was able to handle conditions were the old farts. The ones who remembered how to do business when the phones, lights and power went a bit "wonkey". As they said of my grandfather in the thirties, he really didn't need the phone to call headquarters (In Providence RI from Worcester Mass), he could just yell and be heard down there.
-- pyotr filipivich "With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."
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On Wed, 04 Mar 2015 07:05:46 -0800, Larry Jaques

Usually you just put a small cross bracket in the top of the mast with the wind vane on one side and the antenna on the other. See http://tinyurl.com/njkhkmt although that shows a wind speed on one side and direction on the other it shows the basic concept.
Since it is extremely difficult to get the shrouds, stays, or sails above the top of the mast it works pretty well :-)
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wrote:

Hey, it's not my fault -your- sail is sloppy. <G>

Chevrolet: Built for Liberals with short attention spans. What are you doing driving one?

<347 expletives deleted>

ChaCHING!

_I_ said nothing about a bass boat.

Because they're only $3.47 if they say PWM on 'em. <g>

Good luck finding a decent price on one, though. Too new.

Mine, too, as well as making them yellow. I've had fillings in most of my teeth since age 8. ON Jan 2, 2015, I finally had the very last bit of amalgam removed from my mouth when they did the crown. My body isn't going to know what to do without all the mercury in it.

G'luck, either way.
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    [ ... ]

    Arrrggghhh! The PL-259 is the worst connector for weather conditions of any in common use. Especially the one at the top of the mast. At least the solder versions of PL-259 tend to wick up water where the shield is soldered to the outer body. Crime is a bit better, but the seal where it screws onto the other connector is not watertight. A BNC or a Type-N have a resilient rubber seal inside the connector to keep water out of the mated pair.
    You can probably get away with the PL-259 inside the cabin out of the weather, but the other connectors are better there, too.
    Good Luck,         DoN.
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Gets a bit leaky, too, and the characteristic impedance changes with age, making it hard to tune into a matched load well.
LLoyd
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wrote:

Get marine-rated RG8. The covering is more water-resistant. If it's exposed to sunlight, it will last longer than RG58. And stay away from anything with which you can see the inner insulation through the braid. It will be lossy and it's unlikely to last in a marine environment.
RG58 with a good, dense braid, in the relatively short lengths you'll be using, is likely to perform better than RG8 with a less-dense braid.
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Ed Huntress
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Yep. I'd agree with that, with the minor exception that almost all of them now use a foil outer conductor, and the braid is more to keep everything tight and conductive than to provide the "shielding" function, as it did in prior times.
But Gunner, he's right. Buy the BEST feedline you can afford for any given job. That's where your power losses will be, and you can't really ever get that power back, even with a so-called "positive gain" antenna. (anybody who actually believes you can feed 12 watts into a 6dB 'gain' antenna and get an effective 50 watts out hasn't really run the math.)
Plus... those losses work both ways, reducing received signal strenght by a similar factor.
LLoyd
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RG8 is the better choice of the two. It's usually foam-core, and low-loss. It's also got a little faster (lower) velocity factor than RG58, making it lower-loss over a given length of run.
Ham radio rule-of-thumb: Even with cheap, homebrew antennae, NEVER skip on the feed-line. Use the best you can afford, because most of your operating power losses are there, not in the antenna.
LLoyd
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Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

A length of 3/4" helix is would solve all your problems.
John
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Or dry-nitrogen flooded rigid co-ax! 'Done a few of those lines on 'real' transmission towers.
LLoyd
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