Anybody have a mechanics manual for an 89 E350?

Everything rubber all fuel lines and gaskets, allso fuel pump diaphram, all cooling hoses, carb gaskets and seals Brake lines, wheel cylinder cups and covers, master cylinder rubber, steering component rubber covers(balljoint, etc) The tires may have lots of tread on them and look good but are dried out and will probably seperate on the highway Seals in the transmission,front seal, rear seal, shift shaft seal, sometimes internal seals like valve body but not allways Vacume modulator diaphram, rubber gasket at front and rear of intake manifold,, valve cover and pan gaskets are likley to start leaking from being dried out

Lots of plastic Turnsignal switch parts in the steering collum tend to crumble with age around 20 years Same for instrument cluster, Any plastic that looks chalkie on the edges Plastic clips on the rods inside the doors that hold the rods in place on the latch and lock mechanisms

Did a couple cars about 15 years ago for my stepdad....they had been sitting in a garage in phoenix since the mid 60's This is what I remember having to replace offhand

Allso have bought lots of older cars that have been sitting for extended periods over the years to fixup and drive or sell over the years

I think these are all of the factory manuals. The set for my Ranger is Engine/Chassis, Body/Electrical, Electrical/Vacuum Troubleshooting which only locates the components, and the Engine Emissions Diagnostic which covers the full model lineup for that year and is separate from the truck manual set. The stack of them is 8" thick.

I was able to read the EEC-IV trouble codes with a cheap flashing light reader and check for the sensor signals shown in the Diagnostic manual with a DVM and oscilloscope. The electrical connector pins slide out the back after you pull out the red retainer, and Autozone sells a pack of replacement pins.

-jsw

Engine valve seals will be brittle as well

Sorry, I haven't put my hands on my CD yet. A bunch of stuff from the office was put in the storerooms by the guy that is leasing the building. I started to go through it all but it was stored haphazardly. Not his fault, he had no idea what was what. I haven't given up.

I just got my sister's '86 280-Z up after almost 20 years down. The brake switch on the pedal was sticky, there was rodent chew on wires under the dash, changed out all fluids, a headlight door is stuck, wiper blades are shot and AC is low on R-12. Surprising, the thing took a charge and fired right up with the old gas that had a dose of Stabil in the full tank. I'll keep an eye on things. All the hoses and belts seem great, no cracks or hard spots.

You might be surprised!

At thr very least go completly through the brakes at the beginning before you put it on the road They tend to fail within a couple months or less of putting a vehicle back on the road losing power is not that big of a deal dieing or killing someone because you cant stop is

My F150 is three years older and has been sitting quite a bit. iirc, the last time it was on the road was in the spring of 2011. I threw the battery in and started it up. The only problem I had was with the turn signal canceling but that worked itself out.

I rebuilt the carb about 10 years ago, and replaced a heater hose and front brake hose in '87 when a porcupine ate them but other than that all the hoses, gaskets, and so forth are OEM.

Along the way I've put in a couple of throwout bearings and tie rod ends but it has a lot more miles than your van. I'd replaced the tires with some I bought used but the old ones were 15 year old recaps.

Oh, and I replaced the front directional bulbs in 2011. The old bulbs had separated from the bases.

I didn't have any rodents chewing away but that did remind me that the yellow jackets build their nests in the damnedest places. Be cautious.

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Found this googling for something else. You might find it here. Not free but cheap .pdf download of factory manuals. I don't know anything about the merchants reputation.