BP disaster: snapped r8 collet?

Tom

snipped-for-privacy@aol.com fired this volley in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

couple

And unlike the vendors who sell complete manuals, the ones on bbssystems are mere excerpts, sometimes of only a single page. They're NOT manuals, they're copies of pieces of manuals.

LLoyd

snipped-for-privacy@aol.com fired this volley in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

And sadly, both of these sources supply incomplete manuals, as well. At least askmisterscience admits it.

LLoyd

Try my Bridgeport page

Ignoramus15648 fired this volley in news:rcidnag3PtbtROrUnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:

Did, Iggy. Sorry to say, they're the same incomplete scans as on bbssytems.com... exactly the same ones, with the same scanner's comments.

LLoyd

Actually -- the one from:

is a full 123 page manual.

is just the front cover -- for the same manual I think, but in color.

and:

Is a very nice high-resolution scan of the step-pulley J-head drawings alone, which I think were normally fold-out drawings in the original manuals.

So -- they are worth while downloading.

Here are the relative sizes:

======================================================================

-rw-r--r-- 1 dnichols family 3.0M Apr 11 2005 1966Bridgeportmanual.pdf

-rw-r--r-- 1 dnichols family 8.2M Apr 11 2005 bridgeport-manual.pdf

-rw-r--r-- 1 dnichols family 1009K Apr 11 2005 jhead_huge.pdf ======================================================================

If any -- skip the 1966Bridgeportmanual.pdf -- unless you want a nice colored front cover. :-)

Looks like the same files are on Iggy's site, just different names.

Enjoy, DoN.

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Maybe Lloyd was referring to BOSS manuals.

The manual mill manuals appear to be complete, as you say. I even printed one.

I would like as many people to download and put on their websites, as possible, so that this stuff would not be lost.

My reference was to a recent alt.machines.cnc spamer offering FREE Machinery Manuals where the Manuals are NOT Free.

Your statement is incorrect, you may wish to go back and take another look.

Links were given to help others that may want or need the FREE INFORMATION. Feel free to skip over it if it isn't for you.

Tom

Didn't see this suggestion.

Get a large left hand drill bit. While holding the top nut from turning, stick drill up quill and go. The drill will catch and turn it right out of there.

Karl

Karl Townsend fired this volley in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Not if the drawbar threads already extend past the broken piece.

Otherwise, yep.

LLoyd

snipped-for-privacy@aol.com fired this volley in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

another

None of the manuals listing schematics in their indices actually have them in the scans. That constitutes "incomplete" in my book. I'm not a good enough trouble-shooter to work a complex system without schematics.

I'm more concerned with the BOSS machine books, which are only SHORT excerpts, but only a couple of the purely-mechanical ones are totally complete. The J-head manual is one of them, and I preserved it, even though my old mill has an "M" head.

LLoyd

On Jan 22, 12:00=A0am, "DoN. Nichols" wrote: ...

I think it's interesting that Bridgeport has a 120+ page manual for their machine, while Excello fits pretty much the same information about 20 pages (I have an original for my 602-series). Not a complaint, just an interesting thought. I have to say, that the detailed blueprints included in the Excello manual (like the ones in the BP manual, but more in blueprint form) were invaluable when I needed to repair several parts of the power downfeed and quill spring mechanism.

First, let me say that I ran all of the ideas presented here to my buddy, and he seems to think the collet/nut is on so tight that most will prove unviable. I myself was in favor of Clay's idea, with epoxy.

The thread of the drawbar is protruding past the r8 nut, so KT's idea above is not viable.

But, the suggestion to just tilt the head got my buddy thinking, and we are going to drill out an aluminum round bar to fit the 7/16 thread of the drawbar, and use this round bar as a guide for an aircraft drill, and just drill out the whole thread/nut portion with a 7/16+ drill.

We will of course lose the draw bar, but he has another one anyway.

Still open to more ideas, or criticisms of this strategy.

The moral to the story is, No more two-piece R8 collets!

Hopefully from all this those that didn't realize R8 collets came in multiple styles now realize the danger of these two-piece disasters-waiting-to-happen. goodgawd....

Appreciate all the good ideas, will let everyone know what happens. Might not get completed for another day or two.

AGAIN you are wrong! Geeze...........GO BACK AND ACTUALLY LOOK!

First I give you free information now I have to spoon feed it to you as well.

Here is the VERY FIRST link I posted:

Look at the last few pages IN THIS MANUAL.

What do you see? (Hint: Wire Schematics) Drawing Number WD/153D Drawing Number WD/156B

Think the WD might stand for something?

Here is help site more your speed

Tom

Think of the Etrade baby.....

--Betcha bought that collet from Enco didn't ya? Next time get Hardinge collets; you'll be glad ya did..

Where *did* I put that left-handed 13/16" hole saw?

:)

--Winston

This'll have to do. Several layers of electrical tape to protect the taper and you're good to go, yes?

--Winston