There are only 3 of these bolts. You have access to the nuts, the bolts are in a round T-slot in the belt housing. If you have a way to lift it straight up, like an engine hoist, you can pull it motor and all. You have to lift carefully straight up so as not to bend the upper part of the spindle.
Once the belt housing is removed, (and do it completely so you don't risk bumping something and bending the spindle) then remove the skirt with 2 screws in the top of the quill. Block up the spindle to prevent it from falling, and remove the two screws next to the feed handle on the right side. The counterspring is in this, and it will unwind as soon as you take the screws out. Then, you should be able to remove the cover and pinion as one piece out the right side of the head. The quill can now be dropped out the bottom of the main housing. (Oh, you have to get the stop ring off the front, too.)
You want to remove the belt housing entirely, so as not to have it hanging by the spindle. I'm not sure if there is a reason you can't lift the spindle out the top, but maybe it will bind going that way. I have always dropped them out the bottom, the normal direction they extend. Maybe that is because the feed gear is in the way. If I go too far and it pops out of the bore am I
As I say above, you can't get the quill out the top without disassembling stuff you don't want to mess with. I am not sure whether the rack teeth go all the way to the top of the quill, maybe they do. If so, you don't have to pull the pinion, but you probably do have to unscrew the plate around the feed handle so you don't break the counterspring. You would be winding it down well past where it normally goes.
You still have to pull the belt housing to remove the quill skirt. Maybe when factory fresh this will just slip through the bore, but not after the machine has been used a lot.
Jon