Is there anything that would create and overly tight condition where the feed arm is really, really tight and hard to depress to get the tooling to move. I tried another machine the other day and it was like butter. Mine requires quite a bit of effort to lower and raise the handle. I keep the oil caps filled and run it up-and down regularly when not in use. I see no pitting or rust anywhere. Is there something simple I'm missing? Any help is appreciated.
Rob
Did you maybe use the little lever to lock the quill? On the bottom right side of the head. Sometimes it locks up because you hit it with an elbow without noticing etc
i
Checked it- Nothing there but two bolts on each side of the head for it to rotate. Nothing apparent like a lock lever on both sides. I just ran out there again to double check... The only thing that makes any change is the clicking when depressing the fine feed adjustment on the facing left side.
Also- check you Email I sent you something on the AWS show last night.
Rob
Look lower than that.
Do you know where the lever is that would lock the vertical position of the quill? Have you checked it?
Rob, somehow or other, I do not have it.
i
That I don't know sir. I must be missing it and it's probably right in front of me and I can't find it in the manual. Other than the four long bolts, I don't see anything that would have tension locks on it. There is a blind pin all the way at the bottom of the quill's base but no adjustment or SHCS or Allen opening on it. I'll resend the E-mail to your Algebra account right now.
Thanks again!
Rob
If the setscrew that locks the bearing cap on the nose of the quill is too tight it distorts the quill. If your quill is tight for the first inch of stroke this is likely the problem - if it's tight thru its entire travel, it's something else.
Ned,
It's pretty snug throughout the entire length of travel but indeed, I do feel more friction at the beginning of the feed. I'll take a crack the setscrew. How tight would you recommend I set it?
Thanks!
Rob
Loosen the four face bolts that allow head to rotate sideways and see if it gets easier.
Wes
I'm on it I'll give it a shot and drop a note. Thanks Wes.
Rob
Did you get crazy with the 4 nuts that clamp the face down to ram adaptor?
Wes
Nope, Gentle as a baby. 15 ft. lbs when I set it up.
Sorry about the double post, I was replying to a few different threads and lost track.
Wes
Wes,
Tried the face bolts, I originally set them to 15.0 ft. lbs and I loosened them, even threw on some never-seize just now and retourqed them from 7 lbs up to 15. it made no difference at all. I don't know if pulling the feed arm apart is a good idea at all. (I have very limited knowledge of the internals and know when I'm over my head). There is no scoring on the ram to indicate there is something physically in the way. Now I don't need to really pull down hard to move the ram but my friend who owns a custom chopper shop used mine and made the comment as his was down for a move and I tried his and it was night and day. Same model and all. His was really easy mine took considerably more pressure downwards and I just lift the table in critical movements as I don't have a DRO anyhow. I use the dial indicator for elevation. That wheel is super-easy to move just to give you an idea of what's going on.... The worse part is I just got a new house with a six car garage and I have to move the bastard again!
Thanks,
Rob
This is defintely your problem, then. The quill is an extremely close fit in the main housing. I don't think there is a manual that tells about things like this. My system to clear the bore is to extend the quill as far as it goes, and wipe axle grease onto it, then retract and work up and down a few times, then extend fully and wipe with a fresh paper towel. Then, examine the towel under a bright light, looking for tiny reflective bits. Repeat until there is nothing more coming off the quill. Then you can wipe down and use a lighter lube to put it back in operation. If your machine is new and has no wear on the quill/casting, this treatment can bind it up, so you may have to go with a lighter lube. The same procedure should still work, though. The idea is that the working-in of more than ample lube and then repeatedly wiping off and relubing will carry grit and chips out of the tight space between quill and housing.
Jon
Talking about the quill being difficult to move up and down?
You got chips between the casting and the quill. Unfortunately all to common and requires removing the head usually.
Try spritzing lube in the quill behind the depth stop.
Gunner
I was afraid of that. There was a lot of grease build up in there. Is this a big deal to do? Would scoring be evident on the ram? I shot it full of brake-clean a while ago to clean it up and some real funky stuff came out of the bottom including metal after working it up and down. I thought I got it all but it seems not. Is there a manual besides the stock setup manual that would assist in this project you know of? Also- just got the airline tickets for December. Can't wait to meet face to face!!
Thanks,
Rob
One more thing to consider, although not likely from your description, is the clockspring.
Pull the bolts holding the head/motor assembly (4 IRRC and with an engine hoist...lift it right straight up and away. Let it hang out of the way.
Then you can dig into the quill. Remove the quill stop and hardware (mind the little toggle piece) and pull the quill.
Its almost an interference fit....so it doesnt take much to jam it.
Ill be doing this tommorow at a clients place. I cant get them to stop using an air hose to clear chips....but they pay well...about every 6 months... Iggy has a maint manual on his website
Gunner
The wall of the quill is quite thin where the cap threads in, so it doesn't take much to push it out of round. I think it's strictly a matter of trial and error. Back off the setscrew and see if it helps, snug it 'til you feel binding, then back off again until the drag goes away.
But I think you need to figure out the larger binding problem before worrying about this.
Gunner-
If I understand this correct from your description- pull the four vertical bolts holding the head to the base (Head holding the quill with rack gear rail- base with pinion gear. Lift directly vertical, clean the internal surfaces of the base that holds the quill and reinstall...
Do I remove it completely or just enough vertical lift to access the bore to clean it of funk? If I go too far and it pops out of the bore am I going to have a problem reinstalling it or just let it hunt the first tooth on the rack and pinion, drop in into place and re-torque the four bolts. I have a nylon sling and locking vicegrips for sheetmetal so I can control slipping of the head. Am I on page with this operation?
Thanks again!
Rob
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