collet chuck plans

Is it worth making one when they're available fairly cheaply like

, that's a UK example but I expect you'll be able to find cheaper in the US and then make an adaptor if one isn't available for your spindle already. I've got 2 and they seem well made and accurate, one is on a rotary table and the other currently unused as I found a similar item but with a built in D1-4 camlock mount so bought that as it was cheaper than buying a camlock mount and mating the 2 together.

For 1" stock you'll need ER40 as that goes up to 26mm diameter collets, ER32 only goes to 20mm IIRC.

I've decided to make a collet chuck , haven't yet decided whether to go ER32 or ER40 ... anybody got a link to plans ? I know some of the dimensions and angles , but not exact diameters etc . This will be used on my 10" Wards/Logan lathe for she small stuff , possibly up to an inch or so . Snag

--------------------------------

So far I've been satisfied with 5C collets for fractional sized drill rod and shafting stock and two 6-jaw chucks for other sizes.

This is the smaller one which is on their 5C fixture mount that can move to collet blocks or an indexer to mill flats and keyways.

The runout is near the max spec which hasn't caused difficulty, if I need to turn both sides of a part I make some section of the first side fit a 5C collet. The inside chucking ability is quite useful, it's still set up to hold a freeze plug that I tapped for 1/4" pipe.

Though I have a good 5C set the only collet sizes I really need are for my drill rod stock.

I can see ER collets for metric stock or chucking finished surfaces accurately, I just haven't needed to do that. If I did I could center an ER chuck in a 4-jaw.

I have a couple of 5C collet blocks , and my shop made end mill sharpening fixture also uses 5C collets . Maybe I will look into making a drawbar fixture to put on the lathe instead of heading off into a new direction . I've not considered using the 5C collets before because I hadn't figured a way to use them except in a chuck . I'm thinking something like the ER but with a drawbar and a threaded plug in the collet . It'll only be good for short stuff but ... it'll be repeatable . I'll have to fill in my set of collets though .

I have a couple of 5C collet blocks , and my shop made end mill sharpening fixture also uses 5C collets . Maybe I will look into making a drawbar fixture to put on the lathe instead of heading off into a new direction . I've not considered using the 5C collets before because I hadn't figured a way to use them except in a chuck . I'm thinking something like the ER but with a drawbar and a threaded plug in the collet . It'll only be good for short stuff but ... it'll be repeatable . I'll have to fill in my set of collets though . Snag

---------------------------------

This is a 5C spindle taper adapter like mine:

needs a threaded ring that goes on the spindle behind it to protect the threads and force it out. The handwheel drawbar that came with my lathe was too long so I adapted it with a shaft clamp, thrust bearing and brass spindle bushing that centers it and aligns the collet straight. The taper adapter's collet groove locating pin was sheared off and I haven't needed to replace it. I'm not on the clock any more and don't take heavy cuts.

This one doesn't need a closer tube. They also have an ER40 adapter.

The CME 6" 6-jaw chuck I bought was mostly satisfactory, except that the top jaws fit their slots -very- tightly.

I would want to research that if looking at it seriously as I've heard about variable quality and they normal move the collet to close it which may or may not be an issue. I made a D1-4 mount for a Kalamazoo 5C closer

and have been very happy with it, the collet is fixed and the sleeve around it slides to close it so lengths are repeatable when using a stop even if the stock size varies a bit..

--------------------------- Mine draws the collet into the taper with variable handwheel force and cut lengths do vary a little, though that doesn't usually matter much for low volume prototypes or home projects. If it does I trim the batch of blanks upright in a row on the mill and then zero the carriage dial indicator on each one with a lathe bit touching the end.

The "best" way is in a native 5C spindle taper, but an adapter can be purchased or made if the spindle bore is large enough. With care you can get quite good results. If not 3C and 1A will fit in an adapter that will fit in a spindle as small as 3MT.

I bought an import 5C chuck once, and it was pretty terrible. I sent it back. I much prefer an adapter that fits in an internal spindle taper if I can't have a native taper.

I bought an import 5C chuck once, and it was pretty terrible. I sent it back. I much prefer an adapter that fits in an internal spindle taper if I can't have a native taper. Bob La Londe

----------------------

The adapter mounting surface could be checked and possibly trued by turning chucked stock to the size of a known-good collet (zero runout) and using that collet to clamp the adapter onto the turned stock.