Common sense failure

Does anyone realy buy a protection plan for washers?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/500-pcs-Large-Diameter-Fender-Washers-1-4-x-1-1-2-OD-Zinc-Plated/192285067740?hash=item2cc51549dc:g:G30AAOSw7pNZm7ZJ
If we can't repair it, we'll reimburse the retail value of your purchase
Best Regards Tom.
--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Assurant is a complete scam, a worthless guarantee.
i
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

All purchase protection plans are a scam. Never bought one never will.
Best Regards Tom.
--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sat, 3 Mar 2018 19:10:34 -0800, Howard Beel wrote:

I bought one once: an extended warranty from the car dealer (new vehicle) back in '91. Iirc, I shelled out about $2k for it. - I won't ever buy another extended warranty.
In my case, this car was seen on schedule for it's maintenance, including it's final maintenance visit still "under warranty". I recall asking them very carefully if they saw any developing problems. Lo and behold, 2-3 weeks later I take it in for some minor issue, and then they tell me that a whole bunch of oil seals are going bad and should be replaced. Another almost $2k to do the work.
I didn't have any way to prove that they had ignored these seals until the warranty expired - but I was pretty confident that's exactly what happened.
--
Email address is a Spam trap.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Bill wrote:

This is the kind of stuff that deserves a letter to the state attorney general, at the very least. You can also file a BBB complaint.
On the other hand, a minor oil seal leak is likely NOT covered under the factory warranty. We have a 1999 Toyota van that has a minor oil seal leak in the transmission. We had it checked out at 86K miles or something, and they told us the best thing to do was just keep the trans fluid topped up, and we'd get another 10K miles out of it, then junk it as it wasn't worth rebuilding the trans. WELL, it now has over 250K miles, and is STILL going! Yes, we have to put some trans fluid in about 4 times a YEAR, and all the door handles and stuff are falling off. But, the engine and trans are still fine.
Jon
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

Absolutely. The few bad ones gave all auto mechanics bad names, even though it was the dealershits who were the actual culprits.

Good deal.

Step right up, sir. Let me introduce you to the amazing maintenance tools called wrenches and screwdrivers.
--
Shake off all the fears of servile prejudices, under which weak minds
are servilely crouched. Fix reason firmly in her seat, and call on her
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sun, 04 Mar 2018 20:32:32 -0600, Jon Elson wrote:

I agree.
I could/should have pursued things; but back then (~ 1993) was preoccupied with my own work and just didn't have time to put into any of it.
I did learn my lesson. ;-)
Email address is a Spam trap.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 3/4/2018 8:32 PM, Jon Elson wrote:

FWIW, If the handles are anything like the Camry, they now sell replacements at Discount Auto. I repaired several inside handles by drilling lengthwise through both pieces, while aligned, and installing a metal pin with epoxy. For the outside handles I drilled and tapped to install two 6/32 flathead screws to hold the broken handle in place. When I did this, the handles were expensive at the Toyota dealer. And, this is easier than taking the door apart. But, I'm experienced at these pin type jobs, even with small parts where I use 0.025" rod for the pin. 15 years ago I broke the crank handle on my radial arm saw. I pinned it and it's still going strong. Now I'm more careful going through the doorway with it, that's how I broke it. Mikek
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I ran into that with a 1990 Lumina van; after replaceing both outside fron door handles for something like $18 each, I went to pick up another drivers door handle. When the clerk said "that'll be $85.00 plus tax" I said "forget it, I'll fix the old one" his reply was "lots of luck, Its a die casting". Ten minutes with a drill and 5M tap and it was MUCH BETTER than new!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

though...if they could prove that they'd actually paid-out on many claims.

It's a salesman's upsell bonus plan. Nothing more.

I bought a couple from Harbor Freight since I hadn't seen a history of the item. The 1-man auger leaks a bit from the bottom transmission seal, but I just top it off before use. I've never used the plans. The thing digs like a dream, though. I hate clamshell diggers with a passion.
--
Shake off all the fears of servile prejudices, under which weak minds
are servilely crouched. Fix reason firmly in her seat, and call on her
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Fri, 16 Mar 2018 11:39:22 -0400, Neon John wrote:

...

...

...
Before using the self-cleaning feature, do a few web searches for whatever model of stove it is, and check out whether that model survives self-cleaning ok. Some models will blow the thermal overload fuse (a $10-$40 part) during a self-cleaning cycle, which shuts down the oven, so find out if your model has that problem. See eg https://fixappliances.ca/4-reasons-stop-using-self-cleaning-oven-feature/
--
jiw

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Fri, 16 Mar 2018 17:00:15 -0000 (UTC), James Waldby

My buddy used to work for Searz as an appliance repairman and he tells everyone he knows to never, ever use the self-cleaning feature. If it doesn't kill the unit outright, it will severely limit the useful life of the stove. And he couldn't supply a recommendation for a brand which would not be damaged.
--
A sound mind in a sound body is a short but full
description of a happy state in this world.
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Fri, 16 Mar 2018 10:11:42 -0700, Larry Jaques

There is a minimum clearance that needs to be maintained around the oven when using the self clean feature that is NOT provided for in the construction of most kitchens. I can't find my manual but remember noting the range needs to be pulled out before running the self clean cycle
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

So they're a fire hazard, or they just get too hot from the Clean cycle? Incidentally, I've never heard of a woman pulling her oven out to clean it, or known a guy who has done so for his wife. Are you going to break my cherry on this? <g>
--
A sound mind in a sound body is a short but full
description of a happy state in this world.
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sun, 18 Mar 2018 07:32:47 -0700, Larry Jaques

Well, it will get hot enough to discolor the finish on the cabinets and I'm sure it's not good for the stove either. Ours gets pulled out every year or so - only used the self clean feature once or twice in 20 years.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Have you considered whole-house power conditioning, at the breaker box, too?
--
A sound mind in a sound body is a short but full
description of a happy state in this world.
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

What have you done or would you add to protect yourself from brownouts and blackouts?
My system is incomplete and enough of a chore to use that it's only for emergency backup, although the solar powered freezer looks promising. I ordered another charge/discharge meter for it, with hopefully meaningful resolution at low currents. (Amazon.com product link shortened)
This one handles the APC1400's maximum DC input current but doesn't measure its idle consumption or the solar charge well enough. (Amazon.com product link shortened)
-jsw
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sat, 17 Mar 2018 08:47:52 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"

if power stays out, I'll have to use to run the furnace, microwave, water pot, and toaster oven. I pray the gas stays on for a long while.
I need several more kW worth of panels and a better inverter, and to invest in a solar well pump. I'm only short ten grand or so for interim upgrades.
With an extra $20k, I could go with brown/blackout protection, up it to 10kW solar w/ 120/240v pure sine inverter, build a larger RE-rated battery bank, and grab a couple of the 50 or 60l 12/24v coolers like your Alpicool.

Since I haven't owned one, I don't know how well the data logging works for the better solar charge controllers. But with a lot more solar, smaller figures (single watts or parts thereof) won't be as critical.
I take it that you don't want to pop the meter out. Yeah, with everything plastic nowadays, repairs are being made harder to perform without breaking the case or bezel of the item you're attempting to repair.
Oh, I ordered one of those Yeeco meters yesterday. It should be handy for everything but the water heater, a potential 37.5A draw.
--
A sound mind in a sound body is a short but full
description of a happy state in this world.
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload


Although opposition to power grid improvement is strong here we haven't yet reached the brownout stage, our outages are from storms or traffic accidents.
My computers (=TVs) are all laptops with fairly decent batteries and the APC1400 UPS can protect them while doing large video file backups, as well as run the fridge ovenight. My homebrew UPS works for the Alpicool freezer. This meter is due to arrive today and will give me terminal screws to better arrange the junction of four wire pairs that's currently skywired and taped. (Amazon.com product link shortened)
I also ordered USB breakout boards (Amazon.com product link shortened)21200805&sr=8-8&keywords=usb+breakout and 18 + 22 AWG flexible Silicone wire to connect the meter shunt bases to their displays more reliably.

They shut off the power during a brownout and wait 3 minutes for the pressure to drop before turning it back on.

The 20l Alpi fits my needs only because I've learned to live with a 45l fridge. I would have bought a larger one if Amazon offered it. It does fit neatly in the back of the SUV beside the 12V outlet and holds a typical shopping load.

The problem is that if a 100A meter is accurate to 1%, the Amp-hour total it gives for the battery will be very uncertain for low charge and discharge currents. I want to -know- that the battery has enough charge left to last overnight.
Voltage isn't a reliable indicator when the battery is cycling. The battery that has been running the Alpi since last evening reads 11.76V On, 12.135V Off, and is still rising when the freezer cycles On again. Some of that drop is in the temporary wiring and meter shunt.

The Yeeco 100V 15A meter isn't accurate to the last digit(s) but the internal noise is low enough that it shows the rate of voltage droop or recovery very smoothly, with no jitter. Current is noisier, which could be due to the Alpi's switching supply. I can estimate how far along the voltage is on the recovery curve by the time to rise 1 milliVolt. Now I need a stable, low noise variable current source to calibrate my ammeters with the benchtop Flukes. I have a lot of older tabbed 18650s that I need to sort by remaining capacity before rebuilding batteries with them.
-jsw
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

The best part: it lets me keep ICE CREAM!
-jsw
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Polytechforum.com is a website by engineers for engineers. It is not affiliated with any of manufacturers or vendors discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.