Common sense failure

Does anyone realy buy a protection plan for washers?

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If we can't repair it, we'll reimburse the retail value of your purchase

Best Regards Tom.

Reply to
Howard Beel
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Assurant is a complete scam, a worthless guarantee.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus20830

All purchase protection plans are a scam. Never bought one never will.

Best Regards Tom.

Reply to
Howard Beel

I bought one once: an extended warranty from the car dealer (new vehicle) back in '91. Iirc, I shelled out about $2k for it. - I won't ever buy another extended warranty.

In my case, this car was seen on schedule for it's maintenance, including it's final maintenance visit still "under warranty". I recall asking them very carefully if they saw any developing problems. Lo and behold, 2-3 weeks later I take it in for some minor issue, and then they tell me that a whole bunch of oil seals are going bad and should be replaced. Another almost $2k to do the work.

I didn't have any way to prove that they had ignored these seals until the warranty expired - but I was pretty confident that's exactly what happened.

Reply to
Bill

This is the kind of stuff that deserves a letter to the state attorney general, at the very least. You can also file a BBB complaint.

On the other hand, a minor oil seal leak is likely NOT covered under the factory warranty. We have a 1999 Toyota van that has a minor oil seal leak in the transmission. We had it checked out at 86K miles or something, and they told us the best thing to do was just keep the trans fluid topped up, and we'd get another 10K miles out of it, then junk it as it wasn't worth rebuilding the trans. WELL, it now has over 250K miles, and is STILL going! Yes, we have to put some trans fluid in about 4 times a YEAR, and all the door handles and stuff are falling off. But, the engine and trans are still fine.

Jon

Reply to
Jon Elson

If I were forced to buy a new Maytag, I'd get the long plan, though...if they could prove that they'd actually paid-out on many claims.

It's a salesman's upsell bonus plan. Nothing more.

I bought a couple from Harbor Freight since I hadn't seen a history of the item. The 1-man auger leaks a bit from the bottom transmission seal, but I just top it off before use. I've never used the plans. The thing digs like a dream, though. I hate clamshell diggers with a passion.

Reply to
Larry Jaques

Absolutely. The few bad ones gave all auto mechanics bad names, even though it was the dealershits who were the actual culprits.

Good deal.

Step right up, sir. Let me introduce you to the amazing maintenance tools called wrenches and screwdrivers.

Reply to
Larry Jaques

I agree.

I could/should have pursued things; but back then (~ 1993) was preoccupied with my own work and just didn't have time to put into any of it.

I did learn my lesson. ;-)

Email address is a Spam trap.

Reply to
Bill

FWIW, If the handles are anything like the Camry, they now sell replacements at Discount Auto. I repaired several inside handles by drilling lengthwise through both pieces, while aligned, and installing a metal pin with epoxy. For the outside handles I drilled and tapped to install two 6/32 flathead screws to hold the broken handle in place. When I did this, the handles were expensive at the Toyota dealer. And, this is easier than taking the door apart. But, I'm experienced at these pin type jobs, even with small parts where I use 0.025" rod for the pin. 15 years ago I broke the crank handle on my radial arm saw. I pinned it and it's still going strong. Now I'm more careful going through the doorway with it, that's how I broke it. Mikek

Reply to
amdx

I ran into that with a 1990 Lumina van; after replaceing both outside fron door handles for something like $18 each, I went to pick up another drivers door handle. When the clerk said "that'll be $85.00 plus tax" I said "forget it, I'll fix the old one" his reply was "lots of luck, Its a die casting". Ten minutes with a drill and 5M tap and it was MUCH BETTER than new!

Reply to
Gerry

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Before using the self-cleaning feature, do a few web searches for whatever model of stove it is, and check out whether that model survives self-cleaning ok. Some models will blow the thermal overload fuse (a $10-$40 part) during a self-cleaning cycle, which shuts down the oven, so find out if your model has that problem. See eg

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Reply to
James Waldby

My buddy used to work for Searz as an appliance repairman and he tells everyone he knows to never, ever use the self-cleaning feature. If it doesn't kill the unit outright, it will severely limit the useful life of the stove. And he couldn't supply a recommendation for a brand which would not be damaged.

Reply to
Larry Jaques

There is a minimum clearance that needs to be maintained around the oven when using the self clean feature that is NOT provided for in the construction of most kitchens. I can't find my manual but remember noting the range needs to be pulled out before running the self clean cycle

Reply to
Clare Snyder

Have you considered whole-house power conditioning, at the breaker box, too?

Reply to
Larry Jaques

What have you done or would you add to protect yourself from brownouts and blackouts?

My system is incomplete and enough of a chore to use that it's only for emergency backup, although the solar powered freezer looks promising. I ordered another charge/discharge meter for it, with hopefully meaningful resolution at low currents.

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This one handles the APC1400's maximum DC input current but doesn't measure its idle consumption or the solar charge well enough.

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-jsw

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

So they're a fire hazard, or they just get too hot from the Clean cycle? Incidentally, I've never heard of a woman pulling her oven out to clean it, or known a guy who has done so for his wife. Are you going to break my cherry on this?

Reply to
Larry Jaques

Here is an interesting idea that converts a common industrial motor drive into a UPS.

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Reply to
Jim Wilkins

Well, it will get hot enough to discolor the finish on the cabinets and I'm sure it's not good for the stove either. Ours gets pulled out every year or so - only used the self clean feature once or twice in

20 years.
Reply to
Clare Snyder

I'll check that out.

I wonder if he still has the (old) NEC code book online.

Reply to
Larry Jaques

Brownouts: nothing for the home, UPS for the computer. I have a UPS for the stereo/vcr/dvd/turntable as well, but not on the old CRT 32" flat square Panasonic TV from 2002.

What have you found for brownouts?

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These seem to be designed for fridges.
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and these for the A/C. Any experience here with these products, guys?

Blackouts: solar. The first 45w (HFT) system is for emergency lighting, plus phone/kindle/fire/flashlight charging.

The 1080W of panels are initially for the water heater (900w@24v), but if power stays out, I'll have to use to run the furnace, microwave, water pot, and toaster oven. I pray the gas stays on for a long while.

I need several more kW worth of panels and a better inverter, and to invest in a solar well pump. I'm only short ten grand or so for interim upgrades.

With an extra $20k, I could go with brown/blackout protection, up it to 10kW solar w/ 120/240v pure sine inverter, build a larger RE-rated battery bank, and grab a couple of the 50 or 60l 12/24v coolers like your Alpicool.

Since I haven't owned one, I don't know how well the data logging works for the better solar charge controllers. But with a lot more solar, smaller figures (single watts or parts thereof) won't be as critical.

I take it that you don't want to pop the meter out. Yeah, with everything plastic nowadays, repairs are being made harder to perform without breaking the case or bezel of the item you're attempting to repair.

Oh, I ordered one of those Yeeco meters yesterday. It should be handy for everything but the water heater, a potential 37.5A draw.

Reply to
Larry Jaques

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