Compressor Oil?

I went to a compressor shop. try the yellow pages.

Bob

Quincys need oil? S*it!

I just bought it used. I want to change the oil before putting it into service.

Thanks.

Joe..

Tom- I just burst out laughing, S*it. --Doozer

SAE 30 motor oil?

Ok, sorry...I use synthetic compressor oil from Grainger, second choice is a non-detergent (keeps water suspended) like Shell Rotella, although anything will do...keep an eye on it and change it once in a while. Your Quincy will last FOREVER! You'll have to take out the valve disks and clean the carbon off once in a while (yearly under daily use).

Works for me and my old compressor for about eight years now.

John

Tom,

Thanks for the help. How do I remove the valve disks to clean them?

Thanks again.

Joe...

Use 30 weight NON detergent.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child - miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied, demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless. Liberalism is a philosphy of sniveling brats." -- P.J. O'Rourke

Campbell Hausfeld says 5W30 Mobil-1 Synthetic motor oil is okay, otherwise most compressors call for a non-detergent oil.

I'd get hold of someone at Quincy and ask - rebuilds are not cheap, the right oil is.

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Unbolt the 4 bolts from each of 4 valve body thingies from the top of the head. Make or buy (shudder) new gaskets. It'll be self-evident. Usually just the exhaust valve on the high pressure side gets carboned-up. You'll know when the pump is running more than usual and it won't get up to pressure. Mine get gunked-up once a year running 10 hours a day with a

I was waiting, (lurking), to learn how to do this, but my little Quincy(circa 1960) has two plug like thingies on the top of the head which I assume gains me access to the valves, not bolted valve body thingies. Do I have valve discs that need maintenence,or some other design? If so, do I just unscrew these things with a tie rod wrench or such? I'm guessing if they are gasketed they might be like sparkplug gaskets and ,(hopefully), reusable.

In all the Q's I'v seen, I have three QR-25's running and a spare, the valve disk is in a cylindrical cast iron body in the head. Two valves for each cylinder. The HP exhaust valve should have an unloader on the top that sticks up another 4 inches with an air line that goes down to the oil pump. The unloader has a diaphram that ruptures every 4-5 years. The other three valve thingies (I love our level of technical jargon) have a hex cap covering the screw that seats the body in the head. Each thingy will have 4 bolts holding it on the head. In each cast iron body, a bolt holds a slotted cap that holds the disk and a spring in place. Usually only the HP exhaust valve gets crudded-up with carbon and this only happens if you run the piss out of it like I do. I make new gaskets from paper card stock, the kind that I blister pack products onto. I think the OEM gaskets are just heavy paper. If you're lucky the gaskets won't tear when you dissassemble. Might be worth a look at:

John, may I suggest you locate your nearest Quincy authorized parts dealer and get a manual from them? They don't charge for them, or didn't charge me for mine.

GWE

Just barely broken in!