Compressor Oil?

Hi Guys,

I am looking for recommendations and a source for compressor oil. It is for my Quincy 325 Compressor. I went to HD and Lowes and they do not have much of a selection and I am not sure if what they sell is compatible with Quincy.

Thanks.

Joe...

Reply to
JB
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I went to a compressor shop. try the yellow pages.

Bob

Reply to
Bob

Quincys need oil? Shit!

Reply to
Tom Gardner

I just bought it used. I want to change the oil before putting it into service.

Thanks.

Joe..

Reply to
JB

Tom- I just burst out laughing, Shit. --Doozer

Reply to
doozer75

SAE 30 motor oil?

Reply to
Richard J Kinch

Ok, sorry...I use synthetic compressor oil from Grainger, second choice is a non-detergent (keeps water suspended) like Shell Rotella, although anything will do...keep an eye on it and change it once in a while. Your Quincy will last FOREVER! You'll have to take out the valve disks and clean the carbon off once in a while (yearly under daily use).

Reply to
Tom Gardner

Works for me and my old compressor for about eight years now.

John

Reply to
JohnM

Tom,

Thanks for the help. How do I remove the valve disks to clean them?

Thanks again.

Joe...

Reply to
JB

Use 30 weight NON detergent.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child - miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied, demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless. Liberalism is a philosphy of sniveling brats." -- P.J. O'Rourke

Reply to
Gunner

Campbell Hausfeld says 5W30 Mobil-1 Synthetic motor oil is okay, otherwise most compressors call for a non-detergent oil.

I'd get hold of someone at Quincy and ask - rebuilds are not cheap, the right oil is.

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Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman

Unbolt the 4 bolts from each of 4 valve body thingies from the top of the head. Make or buy (shudder) new gaskets. It'll be self-evident. Usually just the exhaust valve on the high pressure side gets carboned-up. You'll know when the pump is running more than usual and it won't get up to pressure. Mine get gunked-up once a year running 10 hours a day with a

50-70% duty cycle.

Reply to
Tom Gardner

I was waiting, (lurking), to learn how to do this, but my little Quincy(circa 1960) has two plug like thingies on the top of the head which I assume gains me access to the valves, not bolted valve body thingies. Do I have valve discs that need maintenence,or some other design? If so, do I just unscrew these things with a tie rod wrench or such? I'm guessing if they are gasketed they might be like sparkplug gaskets and ,(hopefully), reusable.

Reply to
John Hall

In all the Q's I'v seen, I have three QR-25's running and a spare, the valve disk is in a cylindrical cast iron body in the head. Two valves for each cylinder. The HP exhaust valve should have an unloader on the top that sticks up another 4 inches with an air line that goes down to the oil pump. The unloader has a diaphram that ruptures every 4-5 years. The other three valve thingies (I love our level of technical jargon) have a hex cap covering the screw that seats the body in the head. Each thingy will have 4 bolts holding it on the head. In each cast iron body, a bolt holds a slotted cap that holds the disk and a spring in place. Usually only the HP exhaust valve gets crudded-up with carbon and this only happens if you run the piss out of it like I do. I make new gaskets from paper card stock, the kind that I blister pack products onto. I think the OEM gaskets are just heavy paper. If you're lucky the gaskets won't tear when you dissassemble. Might be worth a look at:

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Reply to
Tom Gardner

John, may I suggest you locate your nearest Quincy authorized parts dealer and get a manual from them? They don't charge for them, or didn't charge me for mine.

GWE

Reply to
Grant Erwin

Reply to
John Hall

Just barely broken in!

Reply to
Tom Gardner

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