Container cooling

I'm currently putting trusses across two containers 16' apart. Each container is 8' wide with a 16' space between. 40' long. Trusses are 32' long to allow a rain overhang. It is sloped with no peak. Total sf is

1280.

My intent was to take the sun load off the top of the containers. There will also be double doors on each end of the space to be able to enclose the space between from our vicious winds. I will put a swamp cooler in each container.

I was wondering if I put a recirculating water pump to flow water over the roof and outside vertical east and west sides if that would cool it very much. I'm probably going to have to just try it. I get ag water, so there's no problem about added cost.

Anyone ever done this?

Steve

Reply to
Steve B
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I've seen old metal roofed mobil homes with a couple soaker hoses on the roof to cool them down. The downside was the constant water flow down the sides washed away the paint, leaving bare aluminum.

Reply to
Michael A. Terrell

No, but I've wanted to.

See below. The last link to a PDF is pretty informative. Watch the wrap.

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Reply to
Steve Walker

Check the condition of the container roofs, I've seen them rust out due to water pooling in low spots.

H.

Reply to
Howard Eisenhauer

"Steve Walker" wrote

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Thank you, Steve. That is a wealth of information, and confirms my idea. It also showed me that I was intending to use too much water, and the fine spraying is what I need. I believe I can put a fine enough filter on my ag water to make it work, and perhaps use the regular mister systems, and use an additional filter or two on those lines.

Monday is a holiday here in Utah, and Tuesday, my hired man is coming, and we're going to set trusses. It won't be long after that we'll be sheeting. Now I just have to put a good sealant on the joints, and I have that. I think it will make a huge difference on the inside, and give me about 9500 cubic feet of cooled enclosed shop area.

Thanks again. Glad to see there's still a little intelligent life in this group.

Steve

Reply to
Steve B

Roger that. I have 5 gallons of liquid goop that they use on RV roofs that I am going to pour on any concavities, or damage. Both roofs are very slightly convex. If this works the way I think it will, the water should not ever reach the containers, only the roof above them.

Steve

Reply to
Steve B

You guys might take a look at the spray-on bedliner stuff for a tough weatherproof sealer.

Reply to
Rex

Many large structures use chilled water for cooling or hot water heating. if you could score a condenser from one of these, just pump your water through and put a fan behind it. Way more efficient cooling. I'd give you one, if you want to go for a 1500 mile road trip.

Karl

Reply to
Karl Townsend

You want a light color, to reflect most of the heat.

Reply to
Michael A. Terrell

BTDT. Woodpeckers love the foam roofing stuff. It sounds hollow when they peck on it so they proceed and peck shitloads of holes all over the roof. The best stuff I've used is Snow Seal.

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Reply to
Artemus

So, spray the black goo and paint it white.

What's roofing foam? If that's white (and lasts awhile) then it should be fine.

Have Fun! Rich

Reply to
Rich Grise

"Karl Townsend" wrote

Thanks anyway. I'm saving for a plasma cutter and a Nikon.

Steve

Reply to
Steve B

That was in Tucson, the Sonoran desert has plenty of Gila woodpeckers.

That's where I bought it (HD) many moons ago.

No experience with that one.

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It used to be. Donno about today. It's really excellent stuff and worth the $ IMO. Art

Reply to
Artemus

I saw some aluminized roofing compound at Orchard Supply when I was living in CA many years back, looked like it was basically tar with enough aluminum powder to help with the heat problem. Fairly cheap at the time. Not sure how well it'd seal leaks, you could always go the blackjack and beercan route to seal those, though.

Stan

Reply to
stans4

That used to be common around here, till Snow Seal became readily available. It lasts a lot longer than aluminized roofing compound, in that it doesn't shrink and crack as fast.

Reply to
Michael A. Terrell

Snow Seal is made for that job. It is white, and reflect a lot of heat. It holds up well here in Florida, where other roof compounds die in a year or two. The 'Snow' part refers to the bright white color, not for where it was made to be used. :)

Here are the specifictions form the OEM:

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Reply to
Michael A. Terrell

I remember that stuff being all over the place down there - 30 years ago.

Reply to
CaveLamb

At my last house I ran one of the perforated sprinkler hoses over the roof of the shed. It cooled down to 30 C from an interior temperature of 48 C in about 20 minutes. I did the planned job, then went indoors to the real airconditioning. Whenever I needed to do anything in the shed in summer I used this system, probably only used about 100 litres of water an hour, shed was 15 metres x 5 metres.

Alan

Reply to
alan200

It has a long useful life, so it may have saturated the market.

Reply to
Michael A. Terrell

Snowhite Roof covering. Much preferred where insolation is high (meaning that there is a lot of sunshine).

As for cooling the sides and top - "double wall". I think it was Buckminster Fuller who designed a double walled, all metal portable hut back inthe forties. (I think for the War Department.) While the outside wall got very hot, the air gap allowed for a flow "up" and out the top, which kept the inside cooler. Neat idea, but the Army went with the Quonset hut, instead.

One other idea for cooling, keeping air flow going, is to paint the roof white, then add a stove pipe painted black. That way a) the roof stays "cool" but the stove pipe will cause a draft as hot air flows up and out, drawing fresh(er) air in. Steward Brand, Editor of The Whole Earth News, did that with his container turned office - no need for A/C or power consumption.

Reply to
pyotr filipivich

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