Cutting 4"X4" X 1/4" square tubing

I purchased an Evolution 9" cold saw. I think it will work. This job is going to be done in a friends equipment yard. So portability will work
best. I bid the canopy portion of a much larger building project and the price has gone up appreciably since the bid was accepted. With the cold saw I can make it all work. Also a lot of steel fabricators in this area are underwater or in trouble. I do a lot of stuff myself. I really appreciate all the advise.
Thank You, F.B. P.
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Well, a nine inch blade with a one inch arbor washer leaves four precious inches for the work. That's mighty tight.
What's the arbor size? 5/8 or one inch?
How close do the cut ends need to match?
Can you lay out around the end of the tubing with a v-block and cut to the line?
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Doug,
It is a non standard arbor size. The Evolution is a hand held metal cutting saw. I understand what you are saying about the cuts.I will have to make two passes. I live in a fairly remote place and my options are limited. I know a guy that has a first class Cold Saw but he has an abbrasive blade on it and he won't let me use it. All the big steel companys do not want to cut steel especially on an angle. I live close to Mexico and a lot of the steel around here is from there. But your talking bulk steel and they could not be bothered to cut it. The largest steel supplier in near by San Antonio Tx. is bankrupt.
Thank You Rick

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I looked around and while I didn't see a pic of a 9 inch Evolution cold saw I did see some 7 inch Evolution metal circular saws, somewhat like my grandfather's Craftsman worm gear circular saw.
A magnetic guide on the steel will help keep your cut true, or something can be clamped to the steel to provide even firmer support to the edge of the saw's base plate.
The 1/4 wall thickness of the tubing is within the capacity of the 7 inch model. So you are OK there.
Was your saw new? Do you have an instruction book?
One thing that I noticed fooling around with a Sears counter-rotating saw was that they include solid lubricant sticks. I can't say enough about the advantages of solid lube for cutting metal with a saw.
Ideally, a helper will apply a stick to the blade while you make the cut. You should never have two operators on one tool, but it is OK to have one person adding lube. Failing that, it helps a lot to lube frequently, and there are also ways to apply the lube to the work so the blade continues to pick up the lube.
If you are cutting off short pieces, the lube can go inside the work, and as the blade move forward it gets a nice bite of lube and metal on each tooth. This really eases sawing.
I assume the teeth on your saw come at the work from underneath? Then a helper with a lube stick would really keep it moving. Failing that, just apply frequently.
Once, I used a China pencil (grease pencil) on aluminum for a jeweler's saw blade. The waxy composition worked well as a lube, and as the blade moved forward, it picked up fresh lube. Yours,
Doug Goncz Replikon Research Seven Corners, VA 22044-0394
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Doug, Following is the link to the company: http://www.evolutionpowertools.com/usa/usaevolution180.htm . Thanks for the input. I originally got the idea off an AWS forum. Everything I read and hear about the saw sounds good. The 9" saw will cut up to 1/2", I got it for a little over kill. I know that it is not perfect but it is the best thing I have going right now. I ordered it from a welding supplier in Dallas and he told me his customers use these saws on site for a lot of serious applications. I will certainly head you advice about the lubricant.
Thank You Again Rick

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