De-burring Sheet Metal Edges

I'm scoring and then breaking off strips from sheet metal as opposed to using conventional snips and may have to de-burr.
Can anyone tell me what the best way is to do this?
Thanks.
Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.
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Searcher7 wrote:

Use a deburring tool:
http://www.newmantools.com/nogdb.jpg
http://www.newmantools.com/noga.htm
Leather gloves, too.
--Winston
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Wire wheel.
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The strips are 3/8" wide so that wouldn't be easy.
Thanks.
Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.
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The strips are 3/8" wide so that wouldn't be easy.
Thanks.
Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. ****************************************
Can you hold the parts in a Sheet Metal ViseGrip? http://www.buycheapr.com/us/product.jsp?prodpar=pr&prodidE465343&ga=us1&ts=go
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On 5/29/2011 6:50 AM, Tom Gardner wrote:

unitized wheel "http://www.riogrande.com/MemberArea/SearchPage.aspx?page=GRID&free_text=unitized "
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On Sun, 29 May 2011 00:57:11 -0700 (PDT), Searcher7

So use a slitting saw the width of the strip and inset them in a board as a holder.
Using a deburring tool on a narrow strip wouldn't be a piece of cake, either, BTW.
What thickness, what length, what quantity, Darren?
And why do the guys wanting to help ALWAYS have to ask fifty questions of the OP to get the full story out of them? Crikey, mate!
-- Education should provide the tools for a widening and deepening of life, for increased appreciation of all one sees or experiences. It should equip a person to live life well, to understand what is happening around him, for to live life well one must live life with awareness. -- Louis L'Amour
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wrote:

Or we can fill in our own assumptions, answer the way we want, and leave them fuming and sputtering.
This is my favorite deburring and corner-rounding machine. The unsupported area above the back guide is better for freehand deburring. http://i.ebayimg.com/14 /!CD77De!CGk~$(KGrHqIOKioE0qDeiF!CBNQN,MdiM!~~_1.GIF?set_id=8800005007
jsw
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On Sun, 29 May 2011 07:09:49 -0700 (PDT), Jim Wilkins

Indeed. And once that happens, it's instant PLONK.

If I can use a deburring pen, I do. Otherwise I use a 1" sandah, too.
-- Education should provide the tools for a widening and deepening of life, for increased appreciation of all one sees or experiences. It should equip a person to live life well, to understand what is happening around him, for to live life well one must live life with awareness. -- Louis L'Amour
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How many do you have to deburr? If it's a big deal and you want to survey the options, you need LaRoux Gillespie's _Deburring and Edge Finishing Handbook_. It's around $120, so you'll want to check a college library for it. LaRoux is the Baron of the Burr. <g>
Having covered that subject for some years, my guess is that he would recommend a flop wheel of some kind, either made of abrasive pads (Scotchbrite) or a sisal wheel with an appropriate abrasive. "Appropriate" is whatever works -- maybe Tripoli or whiting. You want the minimum aggressiveness that will do the job.
In the latter case, you would run the wheel along the strip, which would lie flat on a table of some kind, and let the wheel preferentially cut the sharp edges while just polishing the main part of the strip. Then flop the strip over and do the other side. A drillmotor (an electric hand drill) ought to be enough to power it
I've made flop wheels out of a bolt, a nut, and two big washers, with Scotchbrite pads I bought at the supermarket. They're handy for lots of jobs. Just don't cut them with your wife's good scissors. d8-)
--
Ed Huntress




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.
Thanks.
I had been considering the tools Winston and Gunner pointed out but first I'll try to get a mental picture of your idea. Since you said to lay the strip flat on a table I assume that there would be no need to attack this from an angle.
The faces of these strips will need to slide past each other somewhat, so I just want to make sure there is no gouging. Though since I will be breaking the strips off the stock by bending them back and forth de- burring *may* not be necessary.
I'm surprised that there could be enough info in a book on "Deburring and Edge Finishing" to warrant $120.
Thanks again.
Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.
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Thanks.
I had been considering the tools Winston and Gunner pointed out but first I'll try to get a mental picture of your idea. Since you said to lay the strip flat on a table I assume that there would be no need to attack this from an angle.
The faces of these strips will need to slide past each other somewhat, so I just want to make sure there is no gouging. Though since I will be breaking the strips off the stock by bending them back and forth de- burring *may* not be necessary.
I'm surprised that there could be enough info in a book on "Deburring and Edge Finishing" to warrant $120.
Thanks again.
Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.
=========================================================I knew LaRoux and he is a most interesting and likeable man. What he did is to decide early on in his manufacturing career that deburring is a niche in which he could become the world's expert (he is) and build a career around it.
When you get involved in high production metalworking, one of the striking things you learn is that deburring is one of the most expensive operations. Things that we deal with easily when we're making a few of this or that become monsters when you're making 200,000 of a thing every week.
About your operation: If there are any burrs, they will be on the edges -- probably the edge opposite the scored line. A medium-soft wheel, applied to the flat surface, will hang over the edge and cut the burr back with some authority.
If you get it right, you'll simultaneously polish any nicks or burrs on the faces. It could be a very simple, cheap, and effective way to do it. It's at least simple and quick to try.
If you're going for the Scotchbrite idea, here is how I make those wheels: I use (typically) a 1/4" or 5/16" bolt and two close-fitting fender washers. Home Depot always has what I need. I cut the Scotchbrite into octagons with a utility knife, because you'll have to throw away the blade after you cut a few of them. I just poke holes in the pieces of pad with an awl. For your job I'd try four or five layers of household Scotchbrite to start.
Chuck the bolt in a drill, lay the strip down on a board or whatever, and just run the wheel along the top.
Let us know what solution works for you.
--
Ed Huntress



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Perhaps worth mentioning that you can also buy the things from enco/msc/mcmaster already round and ready-to go, in both drill-motor and bench grinder sizes....angle grinder, too, if you prefer that.
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wrote:

You're spoiling all the fun. <g> I have some of those, and they typically are more resistant to shredding than the homemade ones. But they typically are a lot coarser, too. Sometimes the household Scotchbrite is just right, if you can tolerate replacing the pads as they shred.
--
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On Mon, 30 May 2011 08:20:57 -0400, "Ed Huntress"

Mary's dad built a very nice business that did deburring. http://www.deburringinc.com /
While he was running it, they did everything from snowmobile skids to cellphone antennae to heart valves and artificial hip joints.
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wrote:

It can be a pretty big business. I wonder if I ever talked to anyone there, back when I was chasing burrs, in the late '70s and early '80s. I don't recall any company names, unfortunately.
The variety of processes is extraordinary, which probably is why LaRoux was able to write so many articles and books. Explosive deburring is the most interesting. <g> There also is chemical and ECM deburring (electrochemical -- it works preferentially on sharp edges), and many different mechanical processes.
--
Ed Huntress



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...
==================================>
Thanks everyone.
It seems that the best way for me to proceed is to just stick the end of each strip in a vise and use a file on both edges, before turning the strips around to do the other half.
Any ideas on what kind of file to use?
Thanks.
Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.
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Searcher7 wrote:
(...)

Special two-tooth file, gets both edges on one stroke. Called the DB 1000. See the 4th product down on the left side: http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE60&PMITEM752100&PMCTLG
--Winston
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    It fails!
    MSC URLs are temporary ones built by your search for your login session only.
    However -- if you bring up their home page, and enter the catalog number ("05752100" -- found in the URL above after "PMITEM=", you get the item in question.
    That overhanging black part is a good thing -- it protects your knuckles from being cut by the burrs if you slip.
    Enjoy,         DoN.
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DoN. Nichols wrote:

Brrp! Sorry. I figured a catalog page reference was safe.

Yup. That's the thing alright.

*When* I slip. 00
--Winston
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