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Drill & tap compressor tank?

I assume that your 3/8 threaded hole is NPT. In which case, use a npt-compression adapter/union, 3/8 NPT to 1/4 (OD) compression. Such as McMaster-Carr #50915K316:

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also generally hardware-store available.

Drill out the adapter to 1/4" to allow the tube to pass through it. The fitting has plenty enough "meat" to do this, but as-made it stops the tube for ease of assembly.

Screw the adapter to the tank, pass the tube through it, tighten the compression sleeve/nut, add a compression-fitting valve to the tube. If you file a notch on the in-tank end of the tube, you can lower it all the way to the bottom and still have an opening for the water.

If you first fit a 3/8 NPT tee to the tank, with the straight-through vertical, you can take your tank output from the horizontal leg, while fitting the dip tube adapter to the top. The dip tube will be co-axial with part of the output path, but with enough room for air flow.

HTH, Bob

Reply to
Bob Engelhardt
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You could try avoiding modifying the tank altogether. Get a pipe cross, mount the tank above so the pipe has to go up to get into the tank, then have a six to eight inch (assuming it's 3/4 or 1"--longer for thinner pipes unless you don't mind draining more often) leg of pipe go out the bottom of the cross to collect water and gunk. Stick a drain at the bottom of that pipe. Then use the remaining two sides of the cross for inlet and outlet. Not pretty or very mobile, but works OK.

Reply to
B.B.

A welded iron half-coupling is the correct way to go. Do it yourself if you can. Your tank isn't worth what a shop would have to charge--about $80 or their one hour minimum. good luck, Boat_dreams

Reply to
Boat_dreams

A 'Pressure relief port or valve' is a redundant safety feature. (Required by most codes for any pressure vessel.) Electrical pressure switches do fail.

Reply to
Chipper Wood

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