Tom Gardner fired this volley in
Hmmmm... My first reaction to that was that it would create lousy surface
finish... but then I realized these are roughing cuts!
Good idea, Tom.
I have a bunch of those foot-long springs of 6011 in the recycle bin.
(only, they broke apart on their own).
That was a funny post. I like it when I can Saab with laughter. You
must be the Scion of a comedian. I hope I don't have to Dodge any
tomatoes from my bad puns. I better pull up my Sachs and put on my
shoes and run. Even better, I can Triumph by jumping on my Mustang to
I've never failed to break mild steel chips. Throw feed at it until it
breaks---and it will. Bear in mind, I'm speaking of operating industrially
rated equipment, where power isn't an issue. Home type machines often lack
power, rigidity and the speed required (carbide).
Stainless can be a different issue, with which I agree. Stick to the free
machining grades and it's a non-issue. I prefer them (416, 303 Se, then
303 S) to almost anything where machining and chip breaking is concerned.
No problems with work hardening----just use sharp tools and keep the cut
I have experienced materials that refuse to break. In such a case, I try
for a coil spring. It's much safer than strings.
I've never failed to break mild steel chips (speaking of roughing---all bets
are off for finish cuts). Increase feed rate until it breaks, If it fails
to do so and you run out of power, decrease the width of the chip breaker,
or increase the depth---anything to cause the chip to curl tighter. Avoid
an abrupt inner corner at the exit, however, so chips can't stack up.
When roughing, mild steel breaks perfectly well when conditions are right.
My little belt-driven SB10L, which is a more typical hobbyist's
machine, doesn't like that kind of treatment. So I fiddle with
grinding chipbreakers into my HSS tools until I get the best results I
Sometimes, machining some hot-rolled crap (which I try to avoid),
ain't nuthin' that's going to break them, even pushing the feedrate to
the machine's limits.
I have a really good bird's-nest hook.
I have some cool-looking ones. d8-)
I'm sure that experienced commercial machinists would look at my
setups and could give me a solution, but it's not much of a problem
for me, anyway, because I don't often machine the materials that give
Right now, I'm not machining anything. I have to replace the belt on
my machine. Jim Rozen gave me some belt material but now I have to
decide how to join it. Do you have any glue recommendations? I can
make a clean scarf with no problem.
Sorry, no. I have nothing to offer. I've never been faced with that
problem, and have not been around the flat belt machines. Virtually all of
my experience has come in industry, where such machines were not found.
The only SB that I ever experienced was a 17" Turnado (geared head), which I
found to be borderline junk. It couldn't stand up to the rigors of the
production shop. Not trying to be rude, just reporting what I
experienced. There's a huge number of satisfied SB owners, I know.
Luck with the belt.
With those sticky materials that don't break well with HSS, a narrower and
deeper breaker can be the solution, but it's not easy hitting the perfect
balance, as a narrow breaker tends to trap the chip. I have a lot of
experience with HSS----I used it alongside brazed carbide and insert tooling
up to the day I closed the doors on my commercial (non CNC) shop. The
real negative is that it's not easy sharpening once installed in a setup,
unlike insert carbide. Registration is lost when the tool is removed for
sharpening. For CNC operations, it most likely wouldn't serve well at all,
but for the guy running manual machines, it really is a great solution to
machining. That, of course, depends on one's ability to fashion tools with
the correct geometry.
I have a lot of old brazed carbide tools, but sharpening them is a
problem and I rarely waste my time with them. I use carbide mostly for
turning fiberglass and other abrasive materials. When I'm building
fishing rods and making ferrules, I cut enough of it that HSS just
doesn't keep an edge.
However, I'll keep the narrow chip breaker in mind. And I'll keep
looking for a good glue for the belt.
Wasn't there a recent thread about joining flat belts?
Anyway, we used to use hot animal glue - hoof and hide - to join flat
leather belts. The length of the scarf is covered (I think) in the
Machinery's Handbook but is several inches.
We normally used those patented splices that look like a row of
staples for most machines though.
How is Jim doing? His name gets in my thoughts every so often 'cause
I miss him here. Good guy. I know why he isn't here, and that is
really too bad for us.
Please say "Hi !!!" from me.
Bothwell, Ontario (Used to be Windsor, Ontario when Jim was still
Yeah, but there's got to be something better now.
Dobie Dave has one of those staplers that he'll let me use, but it's
'way too wide for my belt. The one on the lathe now is stapled. But I
figured I'd just glue it.
And -- you can also lace them with leather and a bunch of holes.
The leather on the pulley side runs parallel to the belt edges, and that
on the other side runs diagonally between rows of holes. An old South
Bend _How to Run a Lathe_ manual used to cover that.
I use that stuff for a variety of things, including gluing my son's
soccer shoes back together, and it's true that it's somewhat flexible
and has great adhesion.
I just don't think it's flexible *enough*. Something like Pliobond or
Shoe Goo would be more flexible. But I don't know if they have enough
I'll probably wind up calling some adhesives expert. Cripes, I used to
write long articles about adhesive assembly, but the adhesives I know
about are almost as old as hide glue.
The best stuff is called Barge cement. It's alike pliobond, but a lot better
on leather. It is what shoe makers use to attach soles.
That being said, the stuff is hard to find (just like shoemakers) and a
gallon would last me 20 lifetimes.
I have used Gorilla glue on my lathe belt and it is still working fine 10+
I think that, although the dried glue is fairly rigid, it is able to
fracture into a series of narrow rigid joints that roll around the pulleys
like tank treads
It's also pretty similar to rubber cement, used in the "contact cement"
mode (apply, dry, and stick.) At least 20 year old memories say so.
Either of those is pretty easy to find and might work well enough if you
are not going with metal lacing (which is what I prefer, since it can be
undone.) You may also want to actually lace (the leather version from
which the metal version takes it's name) the joint as well.
I'll second the plug for Barge. They have several products that may
link to a brochure:
It seems to me that I found some sellers at Amazon. Otherwise try shoe
repair suppliers. You might try talking to them directly. With your
background you might be able to score some samples to evaluate :)