flexible conduit cutting - 3/4"?

Cut-off disk in a circular saw, hack saw, a cutting remark...take your pick.

I just use my 4"x6" bandsaw. Then deburr enough to get the end fitting in.

Pete Keillor

cut off disk in 4 1/2" Angle grinder. Just did a pile of this yesterday. Ma rk the cut, put it on the floor (with something to protect it), stand with one foot on either side of the cut to hold it straight.

I realized this morning "I have a dremel and a rotozip. Not 'optimal' - but I have them and don't have to buy a tool."

-- pyotr filipivich "With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone."

Good point.

-- pyotr filipivich "With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone."

I'm trying to repair The Shed - the walls are good, the roof is so-so, the floor is rotten. Disassemble, move, rebuild, add a half-story "loft", add powered death ray turrets, replace roof, and landscape. But I need to upgrade the power supply for those powered turrets. And, as I mentioned before, the current conduit is plastic, and not buried "to code". I wish to replace said conduit with 3/4 flexible conduit (hmmm - that may be trickier than I thought). Anyway, cutting said conduit. I know they make the rotary conduit cutters - I used to sell them. But I can seem to find one for 3/4 metal conduit. For 3/8 AC/MC cable - yes. For 1.5 plastic, yes. But for

Any suggestions? I think I could fire up the Dremel and power

grumble

tschus pyotr ==========================================================

I've never worked with that stuff, but could you use a tubing cutter on it? My impression is that you will only make a few cuts so even if it is hard on the blade it should only cost you one replacement :-). If it is some kind of spiral wrap sheath that makes the cutter want to spiral too, maybe a layer or two of duct tape to give the cutter rollers a flat surface?

Is this the all-plastic big-box type or metallic like Sealtite? IIRC I used to cut Sealtite for industrial machinery with a fine-toothed hacksaw.

-jsw

What?!? Don't have to buy a tool? You'll be drummed out of the DIY organization for missing an opportunity to buy another tool!

Jon

Every project has three parameters: good, fast, cheap - pick two.

What I saved on that gizmo is going to the other gizmos.

-- pyotr filipivich "With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone."

"Jim Wilkins" on Fri, 21 Jul 2017 12:44:01

-0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

Yeah, something like that. For the two cuts I need to make,a hacksaw would work. Just not elegant.

-- pyotr filipivich "With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone."

I think I was told to use a fine-tooth hacksaw because a power saw could melt the plastic coating and mangle the inner metal spiral, which is difficult to straighten and can dig into the wires.

y?

If you are going to use a hacksaw (I used to, before someone showed me the angle grinder thing), use light pressure in order not to bend the metal spi ral. Believe me, I have done more of this than I care to remember, and it's much more likely to get mangled with a hacksaw than with an angle cutter. If the plastic melts, it's because you weren't going fast enough, and it do esn't matter anyway. The connector completely encases the end of the plasti c and the internal metal.

JPB, overhauler of machine controls.

Hmmm. Haven't had a problem with the band saw. I do run it at its minimum speed (on everything).

Pete Keillor

If you have one.

I do, and a Bosch 24 tpi blade has worked well on thin tubing and sheetmetal.

This morning's project is to bandsaw welded tabs off salvaged structural steel. Yesterday I notched the fillets with a file to guide the cuts.

-jsw