"heating rod" for an arc welder

Oct 03, 2008 9 Replies

looking to heat up a pretty big chunk of steel, preferably near (or maybe even "at") red. my oxi-acet gas bottles are near empty. rather do it electrically than get the bottles filled. I have an old miller dialarc HF welder. what to use for the 'electrode' (heating rod, really)? I'm hoping for "minimal if any metal transfer" in the process...



how about just a piece of quarter-inch diameter round cold-rolled? was also thinking about maybe just a bare tig tunsten held in the stinger, using AC "cranked up high" - anybody ever tried that?



sidenote: my old dialarc, recently aquired, is "known to function well" (my tests, with rods) on all its' AC and DC settings, but I haven't yet ever tried any of the TIG functions. it was an ebay buy



"offloading the dialarc singlehandedly" site:

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thanks for insights and brain flash ideas, guys,



toolie


Carbon arc torch. Lincoln makes one. Here's one in VT:

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Bob

I just got one really a lot like that. Hope you got the pedal, they're hard to find and really expensive (like $300). I found that Rustoleum Deep Blue paint (sold at Grainger, part no. 2FP62), color no. V2125, is a pretty good match. Not that I'm saying your welder needs paint! Good job sliding that

500 pound beast out of the back and dismounting it onto a cart. Lot easier if you have an engine hoist, cheap to rent for a day.

You might find this interesting:

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I would take a crack at answering your question but when you say "pretty big chunk of steel" I'm thinking of something about the size of a big bathtub, and I don't think that's what you mean. :-)

Grant

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you need this:

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Carbon arc torches are neat, but put out a lot of UV, AND you have to be aware of the duty cycle at a given amperage -- usually max 20%.

The Lincoln 225's were especially suited for carbon arcs, because at the 75 amp setting, they had a 100% duty cycle, used for resistive type heating on farms during frost, etc.

BBQ'g the piece is a very good idea, as preheating *always* helps welding.

But, if the material is thick enough or big enough, even a carbon arc torch might be spotty, and the best way is to use "rosebud tips" with O/A. They put out *boucou* heat, way more than any O/A welding tip or cutting torch. Not recommended with B-tanks, however, and some advise flashback arrestors in both lines of the torch handle. Not that expensive, either the rosebuds or the arrestors. You certainly will need to fill yer tanks for a rosebud!

There's also an ice-melting/asphalt melting torch that works with propane, iirc.

That's one big-assed welder you got! Be inneresting to know if you were able to fix the oomph problem.

DO NOT use the welder!

You will let out the magic smoke and then that nice old welder will be a big heavy doorstop.

Gunner

You are heating a "pretty big" chunk of steel to near or at red heat. Use firebricks or ceramic fibre to surround it and reflect the heat back and a propane torch to heat it. Acetylene or arc heating is like towing a camper van with a Funny Car.

Mark Rand RTFM

This is what he really needs

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"Obama, raises taxes and kills babies. Sarah Palin - raises babies and kills taxes." Pyotr Flipivich

He needed it.

Now he needs the HF propane Weed Burner. The cheapest way I know to heat up a Big Chunk O Metal to red hot and not have to build a blazing bonfire

Gunner

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