Gunner, since some of your activity is outside, and you're always acquiring machines, what about building a trailer similar to what gas companies use to move large horizontal propane tanks? A hoist rail down the upper middle, along with removeable lower support beams, would let you go to a machine, straddle it, pick it up, lower it onto the beams once in place, transport it, then lower it into place at your site, all without jacking, dollies, or prying. A chain hoist and a rail trolley would be able to travel the length of the transporter to adjust balance of the load and tongue weight on the truck hitch. I've been thinking of building something similar for years, but the old 'round tuit' just hasn't got here yet. It would also be good for hauling somewhat long pieces of steel, power poles, wood beams, and such.
Just to echo Brian's comment Gunner, a lot of crane manuals expressly tell you not to move the crane under load. I've always been told to move a crane as little as possible and with the mast as low as possible. I've worked with some very heavily made cranes in the past that I think could have rolled down the road without a problem (!), but using my HF as an example, while it is of medium build at best and foldable, I could see it have serious issues if something shifted.
Indeed. When I move something over even slightly uneven ground, I keep the load just over ground level and move everything slow..very slow. Only on hard surfaces do I let a load dangle free. I will often secure a hanging load so it is unable to swing in the slightest...changing CGs are not for those faint of heart.
Ive always been EXTEMELY careful of how a load moves, as I worked in the oil fields for many years and moved really really heavy stuff...like blowout preventers and pipe. The incident where my hoist actually mechanicly failed and dropped the pantograph last year gave me even more caution.
What started out as a hobby, scrounging Stuff for my own shop, has taken on a life of its own and is turning into a business (and its not as much fun..though tis starting to pay some bills actually). Unfortunately, Im not equipped nor do I have the land or facilities to do much more. Seems every time I make a big inroad into the Stuff in the back yard...I fill it even fuller within a month. At the moment, sitting in my trailer, is a Crystal Lake od grinder than a fellow in Colorado bought from a guy in Bakersfield (and a hell of a deal too) and asked me to store for him until he gets out here to California "sometime this year", so yesterday I had to drive over to Bakersfield, and load it up, and bring it home. Now Im trying to figure out where to put Stuff. The gun drill is still sitting under the H frame and the Roper Whitney punches are still in the way, along with the 13x36 Colchester and the 6 IBM punch card cabinets, the two air compressors under repair, and those pallets of Stuff from the diaper factory.
And Ive still not moved the 15x48 Clausing into the shop yet ( I have to spin it 180 degrees) , or moved out the Lorch. And its all been done by manual labor, rollers, a very tired pallet jack and what used to be a strong back.
Sigh..
Gunner
That rifle hanging on the wall of the working-class flat or labourer's cottage is the symbol of democracy. It is our job to see that it stays there. - George Orwell
Thats actually a very good idea, and Ive toyed with it. The problems are they are heavy, I only have a small truck, and they are not particularly universal..hard to carry a bunch of plywood or cord wood for example. My biggest need at the moment is a pneumatic tired Small forklift, 2500lb capacity max. It would make life much easier. But unfortunately..I cant seem to scounge one up.
Gunner
That rifle hanging on the wall of the working-class flat or labourer's cottage is the symbol of democracy. It is our job to see that it stays there. - George Orwell
Yeah, ground use forklifts are in pretty high demand. I'm restoring a 3,000 lb Datsun unit here that I bought from a close friend for $600, after his business took off and he needed a bigger better lift. Even after boring the engine and installing new lift chains, along with a general blasting, painting, brakes, rewiring, and new forks, I'm gonna come out for a max of $1,800 or so. For the quality of refurbished lift I'll end up with, along with the usage I'll get out of it, I'll be well pleased. Besides, it's been a very interesting project. In case anyone else needs lift (leaf) chains, the best prices I found were from Maryland Metrics on the Web at $5.89 a foot, compared to as much as $18 a foot elsewhere.
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