Homemade utility wagons

I have decided to upgrade my home generator and bought a 20 kW Onan generator.

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I have looked at it prior to bidding and found it to be in a tip top shape.

As an aside, it has a very familiar to me Cummins L423 engine. To find out more about that engine, type "L423D" in google.com and the first approximately 10 entries are related to me and the specific ones that I fixed up 2 years ago, with your assistance.

My L423D running, is shown here:

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Anyway. The thing comes with a separate dual walled 120 gallon fuel tank. The whole package, as in the generator, the tank, and the enclosure to be built, will weigh approximately 2200 lbs.

I have two obvious options for installing it:

1) Install it on a stationary pad.

2) Install it on some sort of a "wagon" so that later it is easier to move it, sell it etc. This will also, in my mind, make it a "portable generator on wheels" and will simplify a lot of legal bullshit.

So. Has anyone built any such offroad wagons that could be pulled by a bobcat, or a few men fueled by meat and beer.

I have some experience building trailers, e.g. if you search

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and type "homemade trailer", the first entry would be mine. The "wagon" is considerably easier to build, I think, due to its offroad nature.

So. Has anyone built such things?

Reply to
Ignoramus22807
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Nothing wrong with that. If its got a lifting ring, even if its set on a pad its still a portable generator.

Well, yeah, but it also adds some legal bullshit like licensing the trailer.

Off road? You mean serious off road or turf? If turf, then any pneumatic tire trailer should work.

The first one I saw was a canoe being pulled by a bicycle.

Why a wagon?

I have repaired and rebuilt a number of trailers. Its all doable. Simply placing it on a small utility trailer purchased for it might be simplest, but the cheaper ones I see are not rated for much over 2000 pounds. You can always track down a trailer, and just put a heavier axle and springs on it. Pretty simple stuff if you are handy and can cut and weld a bit. I realize you might think a wagon would be more stable sitting still, but a trailer with a tongue jack is plenty stable enough. If that's not stable enough for you then add stabilizer jacks at the rear. A trailer can be setup with wider tries if traveling over soft ground, or with hard tires if pulled over rocks. Also, a utility trailer would probably be easier to license for over the road use, and therefore easier to sell as well.

Bob La Londe

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Reply to
Bob La Londe

I used to have to push around a few generator trailers, in the army, and that was most often when we were offroad. While I got so I could usually park one anywhere I needed with a "duce & a half"; there were often times we would still need to manhandle them into position. Moving a ton of metal around trees and boulders on rough ground, is something to be done with real caution and serious planing. Don't take it lightly or you or one of your beer drinking buddies might become ground meat, between the trailer and a tree.

The mil. spec trailers we had were plenty sturdy enough to carry the load over rough terrain, and hold up well. You might be able to find a surplus trailer for close to the cost of the materials and time it would take to make your own, maybe less.

Luck; Ken

Reply to
Ken Maltby

Bob, it does not need to be licensed if it does not show up on the road. You do not license your wheelbarrow either. The example that is similar to what I want, but not strong enough, is here:

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By "offroad use", I do not mean "adventure offroading", I mean moving it around my yard slowly.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus830

RCM only

On Mon, 04 Aug 2008 23:38:58 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm, Ignoramus22807 quickly quoth:

Is that a yarmulke you're wearing there, Ig?

Very cool package. Congrats.

A 1+ ton wagon would have to be pretty heavy duty.

Newp.

Aren't those rectangles in the base forklift holes? Maybe you could build a wagon which straddles the Onan and has forks which pick it up. A spider-like overhead pallet lift, if you will. (NOT like this.

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)

Better yet, make a 4WD setup for your basic 2T shop crane. Bolt on large pneumatic wheels and a steerable front, then use the standard crane to lift the Onan, resting/bolting it on steel crossbeams once it's up. (I should patent this 4WD shop crane idea.)

-- A great preservative against angry and mutinous thoughts, and all impatience and quarreling, is to have some great business and interest in your mind, which, like a sponge shall suck up your attention and keep you from brooding over what displeases you. -- Joseph Rickaby

Reply to
Larry Jaques

Kool! Likely a backup to a telephone station.

check out the bottom - pictures -

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Now that is an off road trailer.

Martin

Mart> I have decided to upgrade my home generator and bought a 20 kW

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Reply to
Martin H. Eastburn

I've rigged up a hydraulic table that needs to rest very solidly on the ground in use and move occasionally by adding a trailer hitch on one end and inverted hooks that catch on a wheeled axle on the other.

I made a trailer dolly similar to this

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with the ball lower for better leverage and stability, and a hinged hook hanging below the ball to lift the hitch off the ground so I can kick blocks under it. The two-step lift gives it more weight capacity. In this case the hitch and hooks could only be attached slightly above ground level. If you can put them higher the ball might be enough.

The ball is slightly ahead of the dolly's axle when the handle is on the ground. Otherwise it would drop the load. The dolly's axle should be fairly long so it doesn't tip sideways if one of the load's wheels hits an obstruction.

I pick up the hitch end and slide blocks under the balance point, remove the dolly, tilt the hook end up and insert the axle. Then I raise the hitch end and move the thing.

The axle can live under a utility trailer the rest of the time if you make the trailer light enough to roll over so you can easily unbolt it. Mine's manageable at ~200 Kg and also stable resting on its side, which is how I grease the bearings.

Jim Wilkins

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

Three wheels and solid tires work better. Any bounce or tilt makes the load swing. I added fixed-axle steel wheels under the load and a trailer tongue jack with outrigger tires to the mast end, with a long handle attached to the jack's axle to pull and steer it. It's a Spreuer crane which is different from the folding imports so the details don't apply.

Jim Wilkins

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

That M101 is the little brother of M105A2, which formed the bed of my personal trailer. I believe good up to 0.75 ton nominally (but rated very generously). Very cool to use with a car as a tow vehicle, but not quite perfect for the application that I have in mind.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus830

Also, I don't know your local laws, but in Pennsylvania, if a piece of equipment has wheels, but no cargo carrying capacity, then it does not need a license to use on the road.

for example: Concrete mixers, wood chippers, log splitters

Reply to
Jon

Sure, that's nice, but I have no interest in taking it to roads.

Reply to
Ignoramus830

That's what I figured when you said wagon. Well, except I pictured bigger and heavier.

Just moving around your yard slowly... You could use any old utility trailer then. Same vendor and a little more cash would get you one that can be licensed. Weight isn't even that big of an issue because you should not leave it setup with the weight on the tires anyway.

The one thing I have found about almost all small utility trailers is that the tires will lose air just sitting. Carlisle makes some decent trailer tires that will hold air, but they don't come on most cheap trailers. In your application I would put some RV stabilizing jacks under the trailer, or for less money just put it on jack stands, or even less money... put a jack on the front. Lower the trailer tongue. Put blocks under the rear, and then raise the tongue. The weight will be on your tongue jack and the blocks when sitting. Remember that even just sitting outdoors tires will get dry rotted over time (yes on your car too) so be careful to air them up and check them before moving the trailer.

Not sure where you are located, but you could probably buy a used utility trailer cheap enough by checking Craig's List, your local Penny Shopper type magazine, or even the newspaper classifieds, or for a $2-300 get a new one from Harbor Freight or Northern Tool.

Oh, geez. I found what you are looking for, or just use the images for a model.

2200 pound capacity.
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or

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Neither would be licensable for over the road to my knowledge, but it would certainly work around your yard. They do both cost a little more than a utility trailer, but if you insist on leaving your load on the tires these would not require any hardware work to use.

Bob La Londe

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Reply to
Bob La Londe

Bob, I really like this one. I will have to weigh and re-measure the generator, and the tank, but I have some hope that I could put all of that stuff on this wagon. Thanks a lot.

i

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Reply to
Ignoramus830

I can move my boat trailer with about 3000 pounds of boat on it by myself on level concrete and almost by myself on slightly sloped hard dirt. It's also the easiest trailer I've ever pulled to back up etc. You might be able to find one really cheap and modify it. I once gave away a boat trailer and was happy to get rid of it.

Reply to
Ulysses

Actually "Hoosier", Spreuer made it. I spent the afternoon hauling an

1100 Lb boulder out back into the woods with it. The ground is soft from continual rain since June but otherwise it made a good self- loading trailer.
Reply to
Jim Wilkins

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