Evapo-Rust available at HF

So what's Evapo-Rust, and why would I want it?

Looks like it's the bee's knees to take off rust. See the pics and description about halfway down this page:

The HF sale price is ok, probably not a big savings, but for those with an HF outlet nearby, it saves on shipping from the more conventional sources.

Grant, do you ever read any postings made here by other people? I guess not of you would already know what it is...

It has been talked about numerous times in the past, even mentioned with the past week. You even replied to one post by "Michael Koblic" asking about de-rusting some old dies with it.

I've never tried it yet because it had to be shipped in and that drove the cost out of my comfort range. Now that it is available locally (if they actually have it in stock at HF) I may give it a try.

I've only read/seen good reviews for it during the past few years.

Better yet, where can I get some bo-shield at a resonable overall cost?

Wes

-- "Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

There is a local area store in Grand Rapids, I've been there once. Of course the trip to NAMES is now my yearly trip to HF.

Wes

Have you guys tried muriatic acid? Cheap , easy to find...

For de-rusting your M1A1 main battle tank, of course.

On Tue, 05 Aug 2008 16:13:02 -0400, with neither quill nor qualm, Wes quickly quoth:

T9 is not reasonably priced stuff, Wes. Try Johnson's Paste Wax, available at Wally World for $4 and change. It'll last you a year or three, ah reckon. I use it more for my woodworking tools (hand planes, chisels, tablesaur top, etc.) but it works on my metalworking tools, too.

Boeshield is only $109.99 from

or $84.99 a gallon from

Oh, Boeshield Rust Free is $75/gal plus shipping if you were looking for that. Still not reasonable.

--snip-- THIS JUST IN: Obama was in Germany last week, and 200,000 people showed up. In fact, there were so many Germans shouting and screaming that France surrendered just in case.

--snip--

-- A great preservative against angry and mutinous thoughts, and all impatience and quarreling, is to have some great business and interest in your mind, which, like a sponge shall suck up your attention and keep you from brooding over what displeases you. -- Joseph Rickaby

only since about 1994 .. but somehow miraculously although I vaguely recall hearing it mentioned, I actually don't know what it is used for. The difference between asking actual users of a product and googling on it can be significant at times. I'm real good at googling.

Let's see .. Google has archived 16,400 posts by me to this NG. Google has archived 1,370 posts by you to this NG.

well, then.

Grant Erwin Kirkland, Washington

"Jon" wrote: Have you guys tried muriatic acid?

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Muriatic acid removes rust ver nicely, but, unfortunately, it does not stop there. If you are working on something like a steel measuring scale, or a pair of caliopers with an adjusting thread, you muriatic acid may start on the details in the metal before it is completely finished with the rust.

Evaporust looks and feels like liquid detergent, and they claim it is harmless to the skin. Muriatic acid ain't.

And to prevent them from rusting, you can buy tank-hatch dehumidifiers from me, of course. They come from real battle tanks.

Suspected to be a few cents worth of EDTA in water for $20/gallon. The bottler won't be honest about what it is. The publish an MSDS that sez nothing is in it that is hazardous. This in a world where water is hazardous for MSDS purposes.

It's one of those things that 3M doesn't think is worth selling, but is effectively hustled by a small outfit. Such as via newsgroup spam and inflated "military" testimonials.

Really, what kind of technician relies on a product that has no scientific basis, precisely because the maker won't tell you what's in it?

:( Guess I'll stick with JPW (floor non silicone). Thanks for the heads up on that.

Wes

Sounds like someone needs to find some EDTA and run a test.

Do bacteria break down EDTA?

Dave

There seems to be some info out there on using chelating agents in general for de-rusting, and reports EDTA will attack the non-rusty areas. Seem to be some patents in this area.

6310024 is interesting.

Dave

Here's some info on the general idea:

use Zep Metal Prep Dip Rust Remover. I have no idea what's in it but I'm trying to find out. Karl

Define "reasonable". I got a spray can, about 10 oz., from a woodworking supplier at a show one time, $10. Has gone up from there. I've been working my way through a can of stuff called "Slipit", looks like wax dissolved in a solvent, same woodworker's show, different year. Works well for stationary cast iron tools like saw tables, drill press columns and tables and the like. A pint can has lasted 10 years or better. For stuff exposed to weather, I use LPS III, works like spray-on cosmoline. They're getting very proud of that, too. Bo-Shield doesn't seem to work THAT much better than the alternatives I've been using. You can get small spray cans of it from the usual online woodworking supply dealers for what seems to be inflated prices.

Stan

Ok, here's a testimonial:

I've been using Evaporust for 2 years, ever since the new sales manager gave me a couple gallons to try. I've de-rusted taps & dies, machine tooling of all types, antique lathes, gun parts, you name it.

The stuff is straw-colored, slightly thicker than water. You place your nasty, rusted, even slightly oily part in a plastic container, then pour enough Evaporust over it to cover it. Go away for 2 hours or 2 months, maybe longer. When you pull it out, it is shiny and clean, with maybe a black oxide coating on it that wipes off. High-carbon tooling will retain a dark color. It doesn't hurt most paints, and doesn't attack any metal that i have found. I use aluminum round cut-offs to take up space, they still look new. You can re-use it until it's so black you hate to touch it, then pour it down the drain or on the lawn. Right now I have some sort of antique formula car suspension piece soaking. It was nickle-plated, badly rust-freckled. I couln't get it all into the pan (a flower-planting trough from HD) so I turned it over last rip out to the shop. The part that was soaked was clean as a pin. It leaves a thin coat that will prevent flash-rust until you can get it protected, but I usually just wipe it off and leave it.

I'm a believer. You guys can futz with acid and electrodes all you want, but I've already cut out that coupon and I'll stop by HF and pick up a couple gallons. The irony is I can't get the people here where I work to buy the stuff so we can sell it. I think AutoZone also sells it.

Googling got this link:

Where to buy it turned up autozone near me.

I'll buy some to play with. Thanks.

Wes

-- "Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller