How Long Would You Leave It In The Freezer

Overnight should do it, unless you are in some sort of hurry. If you can find some dry ice, apply that for a bit (10-15 minutes, with a pre-chilled arbor) before mating...and warm the chuck as well.

None of which will do much if there's a defect (dent, dirt, burr, scratch) in the tapers that's making them not grab properly as is.

If you want to get it colder, try this recipe...

Yep, inspect and clean the tapers carefully.

Overnight in the freezer, half hour with dry ice, few minutes with liquid nitrogen :)

They are clean. ** after degreasing, ** I have inspected them. They are right on the edge of fitting up, but I just do not want to hit it that hard to seat them up. With a rubber mallet it works fine, but sometimes loosens up on a hard bump in certain types of work. No issues when mating with the press. This is a brand new taper and a brand new chuck, and they have been cleaned, and gently polished with .000 wool, and tissue detects no snags. It just needs a good smack or something less likely to damage something like a cold fit. I realize its just a drill press, but if I get it perfectly straight and tightly fitted now I just won't have to worry about it any more. Its limitations will be the mediocre quality of the drill press ever after.

"Bob La Londe" fired this volley in news:G6IAo.8775$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe18.iad:

I've never had problems with an "inertial fit".

I clean everything, make sure there are no burrs or non-monotonic portions of the tapers. Then I install the taper into the chuck by hand fit and hand pressure, them hand-propel the assembly from about 18" up tang end down on a block of aluminum or heavy Type-I PVC (never on steel, please!).

It seldom works loose before the taper comes loose from the socket in the drill press, even when running self-feeding bits. It's kind of like the action you'd use to seat an axe bit or maul on a handle (which cost me an exploded finger tip one year! OUCH!)

LLoyd

Which is why I suggested a 2x4 and a sharp "wap!"

Gunner

We had one drill quill in a machine that the chuck just wouldn't stay on no mater how perfect we thought we had the taper. There is very little room to get under it soooo...Roger used a .22 Ramset and a block of brass. Hasn't come off in 5 years.

Excellent! idea! My compliments to the Dude!

Gunner

Bob, Have you considered that the taper may be off? It is NOT uncommon. I suggest you do a Prussian blue test. It could be one or both of the mating bits may be Chinese? Steve

engagement. I'm not having any issue with the taper

thought I might try freezing the arbor and fitting

sleeve locker. So, how long would you leave the arbor

Freezer is set at 0F and ambient is in the high 70s

you do a Prussian blue test. It could be one or both

engagement. I'm not having any issue with the taper

thought I might try freezing the arbor and fitting

sleeve locker. So, how long would you leave the arbor

Freezer is set at 0F and ambient is in the high 70s

Ah...I do have both a #2 MT rougher AND finisher I could loan out....

Good test! 2/$1 pantyhose at the Dollar store are good for detecting snags, too. (No, I bought them for making veggie sprouts, Tawm.)

Do pop the head off and support the quill, then pop that puppy down with the proper application of a tubafore. Won't take but a few minutes.

Seems to me that I saw taper reamer/checkers in the MSC, Enco, and McMaster cats if you need a true sizer.

-- Experience is a good teacher, but she send in terrific bills. -- Minna Thomas Antrim

Did you try any of the impact assembly methods mentioned by several (including me)?

That is a function of how big an arbor it is. I would suggest for a MT-2 arbor with any reasonable Jacobs taper at the other end, an hour should suffice.

But I would *also* put the chuck in the oven (perhaps about 150F or so -- certainly not above the boiling point of water), and handle both it and the arbor with thermally insulating gloves.

Ignore ambient -- heat the chuck.

But the impact works well for me. My preference being to hold by the arbor with the chuck uppermost, and bring it down on a chunk of

2x4 resting on a concrete floor or the like. The inertia of the chuck slams it firmly onto the arbor. (Obviously, clean of oil first.)

But before you try *either* approach -- check with a very thin film of spot check bluing for a proper fit. It might be that one of the two parts is the European taper which is not quite Jabobs, and the other is truly Jacobs. In that case, you will never get a truly good fit.

Good Luck, DoN.