How my mill looks today

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Bridgeport-Series-II-Interact-2-CNC-Mill/28-September/
I added a special bracket to attach two Loc-lines to the quill, so
that the stream follows the cutter if necessary. This assebmly can be removed. I now have a Loc-Line fixed to the head (for drilling mostly) and the loc-line attached to the quill (for milling). Both are on separate valves, so I can pick which one runs. The clamp does not interfere with homing.
The bracket also has a slot to mount the mister line if necessary. I of course made this bracket on the mill (and could not easily do it on my manual mill due to its curvy shape where it "hugs" the quill).
Also can be seen, my chip guard, the mounted monitor, and electrical cabinet.
Also a Saitek joypad that I use for jogging the mill.
Clearly a work in progress, but it is closer to finish now than it is to start and it works.
i
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On Sep 2, 10:38 pm, Ignoramus28169 <ignoramus28...@NOSPAM. 28169.invalid> wrote:

Doesn't your wife ever make you clean you room?
Paul
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She does. I am in the process of cleaning.
i
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What's that Lassie? You say that Ignoramus28169 fell down the old rec.crafts.metalworking mine and will die if we don't mount a rescue by Fri, 03 Sep 2010 00:38:24 -0500:
Iggy, I meant to get this to you sooner. http://www.harveytool.com / Has a great selection of small end mills and other tooling.
--

Dan H.
northshore MA.
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Looks kind of interesting, but some items are pricey.
i
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http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Bridgeport-Series-II-Interact-2-CNC-Mill/28-September/
    First -- come comments on the photos on the web site.
    Assuming that you have done any processing on the images, I suspect that your monitor brightness and contrast are not set properly. The images, as I downloaded them, are too dark by far to make it possible to interpret what is in them. I downloaded some of them and processed them locally to get a better view of things. (Below you will find a description of what I have done to them so you can experiment with the same things and see what kind of difference it makes.
    You want to get a grayscale image and adjust the brightness and contrast until you can (barely) distinguish the darkest block from the next darkest, and the lightest from the next lightest.
    Then you are in a position to start editing the images -- though if you can control the gamma of your driver to the display, you may want to tune that too to match your monitor. The gamma which is correct for a CRT is not correct for a LCD monitor.
    Anyway -- once that is done, and assuming that you are using "The GIMP", when you bring up each image, first click "tools" in the top of the window, then select "Color Tools" in the sub-menu, and below that select "curves"
    This will bring up a histogram of the intensity of each image. For your images, what I had to do to make them easier to see is to first click on the top-right corner end of the diagonal line, and draw it along the top line until it was over the next vertical line in.
    Then I moved the mouse pointer to the middle of the diagonal line, clicked and drew it up a bit towards the upper-left-hand corner. (View what is happening to the image as you do this, and release when you are happy with it.
    then, click "Ok" to accept the changes and banish the "Curves" window.
    Then "^S" to save it over the existing image (this assumes that you have saved original copies else -- otherwise use "^-shift-S" to save it under another name.
    I saved and edited images "28-September-7766.jpg" through "28-September-7766.jpg" before I got tired of waiting for the downloads. (You saved the images as 3872x2592 images, which took forever to download.) And some (especially the screen images) could have benefited from cropping as well.
    It is nice to have the full resolution available to answer questions, but I would suggest that you make half-sized thumbnails to view on the web -- and links to allow downloading the full-resolution image should I (or someone else) want the higher detail.
    [ ... ]

    Now -- some suggestions for *keeping* it running:
1)    Put a hinged clear plastic window in the opening in the pod to keep     conductive chips out of the control switches.
2)    *Especially* -- put a door on the electronics enclosure.
    Your machine makes nice conductive chips. If these get into the electronics housing, they can fry things. (This *might* be what happened to your servo amp (drive).)
    Good Luck,         DoN.
--
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I will put the door back very soon. Right now it would get too much in the way. The chips do not really get inside the enclosure all that much due to the shield. I think that it was worse when they used mist cooling with the compressed air blowing chips everywhere.
I am a little exhausted today, but maybe tomorrow I will try re-editing images.
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