how to bypass dremel tool internal variable speed control?

I took a look at google images for his model and the dimmer really is just a dimmer ... providing they sell brushes kits (2) for his model, the principle was ok from the first post; plug it right to the input.

If the person who originally posted the question still follows the discussion; it is strongly suggested that you do NOT use the tool wired that way for too long as the motor will overheat and break (or some of its internals will melt down)... take it as a temporary fix only.

Reply to
Claude Desjardins
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Or do like I did. I took a 600 watt dimmer and put it in a project box with a cord on one end, and a receptacle on the other. I use it to control the speed of dremel type tools (anything with universal motor under about 400 watts) and to regulate output of my soldering iron. Also comes in handy to dim the occaisional lamp.

As long as you don't run it wide open for long periods of time it will last as long as if you had the built-in speed control. My luck with Dremels has been terrible. The cheap chinese crap lasts just as long, for 1/4 the price. Much as I hate chinese crap.

Reply to
clare at snyder.on.ca

after you make your temporary repair, dremel sells all the parts you might need for a nominal cost if you call customer service.

Reply to
Tony

I was like that once - long ago.

Then I got my first DIE GRINDER!

OOOOOoooohhhh Baby.

Atomic powered Dremel.

What a TOOL to have in hand. Oh, The POWER!

But warning - this dude ain't for balsa wood, kiddies.

And you probably outta practice on something else before trimming those gnarly toe nails...

Reply to
cavelamb himself

Trace it with a volt meter. Probably a bad solder job and the heat from the controller loosened something up. Easy fix if you have a decent iron.

Reply to
marc.britten

More China crap...

You can get a Router Speed Control from Harbor Freight for ~$13 on sale pretty often.

"ROUTER SPEED CONTROL

Get better results and longer bit life when routing tough woods, plastics, even aluminum. Plug your router into the control unit and you instantly have a variable-speed tool. Works with any universal AC/DC brush type motor, 15 amps and under. Will not work with soft- or slow-start motors.

ITEM 43060-1VGA"

See:

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I have one and it works okay with my die grinder, drill, table saw (cheapo, has universal motor), 4 inch angle grinder...

Your going to have a hard time building one cheaper than this and have it look and work as well.

Reply to
Leon Fisk

I have one of those HF pseudo-dremels. Not very torque-y at all. Bogs down very easily. A very light touch is required.

Jerry

Reply to
Jerry

But that's the point, those things have really high speed to do the work, and you shouldn't be using much pressure.

Try sawing through a bolt. You'd have to use the hacksaw and lots of pressure. Put a cutoff wheel in the "rotary tool", and you barely need to apply any pressure. The first time I tried a cutoff wheel in one of those things was the day I realized how wonderful they were.

Now, your cheap one may have other problems. But a light touch is what's required with "rotary tools" anyway.

Michael

Reply to
Michael Black

I've got a good air powered one of those for the "serious stuff" but the crappy dremels don't even stund up th the "balsa and toenails" type jobs.

Reply to
clare at snyder.on.ca

Built mine about 15 or more years ago in a $2 surplus project box, using the cord from an old iron and the receptacle from an old stove-top with a dimmer I picked up in a box of stuff at an auction. I think total cast was $5 or less and it STILL looks and works just fine.

Reply to
clare at snyder.on.ca

Well, balsa is no problem, byt dam, Clare, those toenails....

Reply to
cavelamb himself

Pneumatic rotary tool at 120psi, should fix a stereo in a matter of seconds ;) It's a "I fixed it, now go back to radioshack"

Reply to
Claude Desjardins

Not to dig up an old topic, but I just ran into this

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Reply to
Marc Britten

If it runs at all, hopefully at full speed, jst plug it in to a sewing machine rheostat, Works fine for me.

Boris

Reply to
Boris Beizer

Plus the collets are brass and wear out in no time. Good for a one or two time use project, no substitute for a pneumatic die grinder. Bearings suck on them, too. Whadda ya want for $6 anyway? Spend a couple of bucks more and get the mini-pneumatic die grinder. Some of the ones I have accept Foredom collets, too.

Stan

Reply to
stans4

Well you need an air compressor for one of those, a tool relatively few people own. I use a pneumatic die grinder occasionally, but it's louder than my Dremel and it spews out a bit of oil in use.

Reply to
James Sweet

Sorry not to reply to this directly, I don't seem to have the original.

If you're interested in making PCBs have you looked at the mailing list "homebrew snipped-for-privacy@yahoogroups.com" and their archives?

Reply to
Stuart

Well that would defeat the purpose of the oil in the first place, which is squirted into the tool to lubricate the air motor. Perhaps you're referring to the high speed air turbine tools? Either way unless you already have the compressor as I did, an electric tool is far cheaper and is not tethered to a big heavy noisy piece of equipment.

Reply to
James Sweet

My $12 die grinder calls for 1-2 drops of oil per use, I've never seen oil come out of it Gerry :-)} London, Canada

Reply to
Gerald Miller

Tethered? I plumbed my house[*] for air. ;-)

[*] Places I'd likely use air tools.
Reply to
krw

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