how to protect threaded part

Apr 20, 2005 12 Replies

Hello,



A friend of mine has broke a stud that holds the blade to his old chainsaw. He has asked around and the part is nolonger available, it's basically a threaded double ended stud with a flange/flat part way along.



Anyhow, making the part is not the problem, will prrobably be out of some C12L14 or 4140 I have laying around.



The question is what can I do to it so it doesn't rust in the normal environment of a chainsaw? What do they usually do to fasteners to protect it from the environment? That black finish that isn't paint etc?



Thanks, Jeff


Why don't you just make it out of 316 SS, then it won't rust. If the saw is like mine though, it usually is pretty welled oiled from the bar. So I would make it out of 4140.

Richard W.

Bar oil splashed everywhere tends to keep the metalwork protected.

Gunner

Rule #35 "That which does not kill you, has made a huge tactical error"

Wouldn't worry about rust... The original didn't rust away - it was probably overtightened and twisted off. Everyone seems to think ya gotta jump up and down on the bar tightening bolts/nuts... Ken.

Well, the normal environment in _my_ chainsaws is oily wood up against all surfaces. But, I think the finish you're looking for is "parkerizing", a black phosphate (?) process. Google for "home parkerizing" might get you what you want. Or, just make the part out of stainless?

First, see if the normal oiling doesn't keep it from rusting.

If it starts to rust, hit it with some Loctite Extend (spray can). This converts the rust to a resistant finish, and coats it with a polymer as well, simply by spraying it on. Not economical for a big area, but for a little part, it's just the thing.

First, can you find a stud from a good auto parts or hardware store that would work? I question if the flanged portion is necessary, just Locktite the stud in the hole. Second, it ain't gonna rust, trust me! Greg

I wouldn't worry too much about rust, but making the stud from 12L14 is likely a mistake. It's not all that great for tensile strength, and you can bet your butt the broken one was heat treated. One made from leaded steel, which is not heat treatable, is likely to fail quickly. Go with the 4140, even if it's in the annealed condition. Even better would be if its pre-heat treated. It won't machine as nicely, but your effort won't be wasted.

Harold

Hello,

Thanks all for the answers. Since I don't use a chainsaw much I wasn't sure how oily the area is. Sounds like I will make it untreated and see how it goes rust-wise.

Few comments to some answers:

- Parkerizing is what I was think of so thanks.

- I just didn't have any stainless around so I didn't want to go get a piece just for a 2" part I might be able to make out of somehting else. That said I mentioned it to my friend and he comes back with "hell, I have 4 feet of what is marked as 316 stainless in my garage, got it in a box of stuff at a yard sale!" so I have one made but SS will be next if it rusts

- I have some 4140 pre-heat treated and you are right, it doesn't turn all that well but I made it out of that and we will see

Thanks, Jeff

Harold and Susan Vordos wrote:

I found my "Home Parkerizing Workshop" booklet last night just in case. Need to reread it anyway, but if you want info, let me know.

Don't hesitate to share that information with us, Dave. Parkerizing is a very nice finish.. If nothing else, perhaps you can tell us the source of the booklet.

Thanks,

Harold

Will do. When I read it ten years ago, it didn't seem intimidating, and I've learned a lot since then. So, either it will be trivially easy, or I now know enough to understand where the hard parts are. I'll summarize some time this weekend.

Dave Hinz

Cool! I'll keep watch.

Harold

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