How to use crimping tool

I find the other way works better and is more consistent YMMV.

Are these better quality crimpers have wider jaws? Mine don't actually "crimp" terminal but make a deep dent with it's narrow tooth in terminal neck destroying insulation in the process. I normally make a couple of them otherwise it doesn't hold wire too good.

JR North wrote:

Crimping tools are for people who never learnt how to solder.

Andrew VK3BFA.

Not necessarily! It depends on the circumstance where either soldering or crimping is more practical.

I consider myself a master in soldering electrical connectors from years of experience in the industry but I still use crimpers more often when working with military avionics. Crimping is actually the better and preferred method in 90% of the work.

The tooth of the crimper should press the split side of the connector! If you use it the other way there's a possibility you may separate the connecting section into a "Y" shape.

"Andrew VK3BFA" wrote

Actually almost every standard for wiring in high vibration situations discourage solder. Marine and automotive especially. Solder can creep out into unsupported strands and increase the possibility of fatigue failure. ABYC, Lloyds and several other marine standards strongly recommend crimp rings only.

Crimpers come in various designs! If your crimper has a design that does dot have a "tooth" then it is not what is being discussed in this thread.

I was taught that the split where it's folded together goes in the saddle, and the tooth presses on the solid side. There is a possibility of spreading the split apart if you do it the other way. Just my opinion though.

And you are wrong. I just looked at the crimper in the picture, it is one of those barely servicable models, you could do just as good a job with a pair af vise grips as with that Boston tool.

Uh, the guy included a link to a photo of the tool. It does not have anything that I would describe as a "tooth".

Take a look at

and you'll find several compound-lever tools for insulated terminals that I think you will find much more satisfactory than the tool that you are using.

Alex wrote in news:RWrQf.57890$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr21.news.prodigy.com:

You need a set of good crimpers such as these

These tend to do a bad job. I'd crimp in two places with such a tool.

If you do lots of crimping, this is good tool:

the dies won't crush the insulation on the terminal, and it will compress the metal inside as well as some of the plastic around the wire that hangs out. Good crimp terminals make a difference too. Crappy ones split or break apart.

Agreed. I've seen to many done the other way where only one half of the split is pressed down.

And I suppose that AMP industies should stop making a direct knock off the tool that was referenced.

1577 snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

I looked at the manual of this tool. It is a way better tool. It compresses the metal all around wire. It should also take a lot mot more pressure to do it vs. cheap "tooth into the metal" design therefore ratcheting is necessary.

Cydrome Leader wrote:

I was told by the 'Ideal' crimper dealer that the "toothed" crimper was for use on NON insulated lugs. (tooth to the lug side opposite to the seam) and the 'non toothed' crimper was used on INSULATED lugs. (Doesn't damage the insulation ) Been doin' crimps that way for years with no apparent ill effects. YMMV rgentry_at_oz_dot_net _AT_ = @, _dot_ = . to eMail