Mmm, - this is a bit of a curly one. I agree - crimping tools are preffered for many applications - BECAUSE it removes the need for skill on the part of the operator. Tools such as this have traceable calibaration, come in their own box with gauges, and usually have a test set to test the conductivity of the connector. I have used them - we were supposed to do test crimp every "XXXXX" connections and test. I am certified to HRHS standards, and lately I have been gettng my patch leads made up by a company that has the "proper" crimping tools......because its easier AND cheaper than me buying the connectors and spending HOURS making them up.
My issue is with the great majority of crimping tools and connectors being cheap crap - useful for field repairs, or to get something operational in a hurry, but will always try and do a good soldered connection, with strain relief, and with heatshrink over the top.
The majority of so called "crimp connections" are better done with a
The crimper illustrated there is a cheap one, and is made for pre-insulated crimp terminals, where the seam is usually not visible, and where there is no "tooth" -- the crimp is symmetrical.
For *good* crimpers, look for those made by AMP -- each one is for a specific size of terminal (and the handle ends are painted a color to match the color of the insulation).
Those usually have a device to orient the terminal before you crimp it, even though the crimp is symmetrical -- and the crimp is wider than most of the cheap crimpers, which usually require to cycles to complete the crimp. For a symmetrical crimp, the blade of the terminal should be parallel to the join line of the crimp jaws.
And a *good* crimper will have a cycle-control ratchet to force you to complete closing the crimper before you release it -- and will also have compound leverage.
Yes -- Tycho has absorbed AMP, who has always made the crimpers which I prefer. (Mine are older styles, but this should be quite satisfactory for crimping insulated terminals.)
If you dont have the proper tools for the job, it will most likely cause problems in the future.
I had problems in an PA system in an old Convair. I traced the problem to a splice box under the galley section. Almost every splice in that box was bad. You could pull the wires out of the crimp with almost no force at all. The leaky coffee urn dripping water and coffee into the box didn't help much either.
I have a Thomas & Betts version similar to this Klein crimp/cutter. (although the Klein tool image isn't clear enough for me to see the second crimp location, to determine if it's a smaller version of the clearer "partial-C" or moon-shape).
The T&B tool has 2 crimp spaces for 2 sizes of uninsulated/bare terminals.. they're clearly marked that the tool is for uninsulated terminals. However, I frequently use them for insulated terminals that fit properly in the half-round section. The forged tool is definitely wider than a stamped-steel tool, and provides a very secure crimp for either type of terminal. When used with insulated types, the "tooth" (in that the shape resembles a smooth single gear tooth) does displace the plastic insulation sleeve enough to compromise the thickness of the insulation, but that isn't usually a serious problem in most applications (since the terminals aren't fully insulated anyway).
Stamped-steel crimpers such as the style that the OP referenced are capable of making good crimps on insulated terminals (although the crimp area is essentially just flattened), but I prefer a larger crimped region and significant metal upset to insure a more reliable connection. The handles of the forged tool are more comfortable, and provide good leverage for tight crimps. The thin style of crimper tool sometimes has a spike or tooth intended for uninsulated terminals, but usually isn't much more effective than using a blunt nail to make a crimp, IMO. Another quality issue with the typical low-priced tool design, is that the stripper section is often just a deformation that's formed as the tool parts are stamped. Better verisions will have machine-ground strippers.
High quality terminals are the only type that are worthwhile. Stainless steel terminals are available for high temperature connections. Cheap terminals may only have less than an eighth-inch for the crimp section. For either type of terminal, I put the crimp depression on the back side, opposite the split side. Specialized crimpers that deform the split side typically have a "m" (or half of an 8) shape to create a tight spot in the middle. Notice that terminals that are intended to be crimped in this manner have open tabs before the terminal is crimped, and the tabs often have ridges in them for a secure crimp.
It's been a while, but if memory serves me correctly, a connector meant to be crimped states the same in the specifications. Also, most of the brand names will specify which model of crimper to use for a specific connector. And then the crimper will have it's own instructions for proper usage.
Do a google search for: "how to crimp electrical terminals" and you'll get lots of information. Now that I have a really good set of crimping tools, I rarely use my cheaper crimpers, even my Greenlee. This is the best one so far:
I have been using a crimper that's the twin of the OP's for 40+ years. I can't say that I've never had a bad crimp, but very few. Almost always a post-crimp tug will catch it.
Is it a "bad tool" and/or having I been creating "bad crimps"? My main criterion is "Does it work?" Like most here, I use it for hobby work, as I guess the OP does. Professional requirement *will* be different.
No doubt, the crimpers starting at $100 are better. But not worth it to me. I'd say if you buy your crimps in 100-count boxes, you should get a gold-standard crimper. If you buy variety packs or 10-count boxes, a $10 one will do. If I didn't already have 2, I'd get the $26 Klein - a nice middle ground.
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