Hypertherm 1000 current settings

I have one of those too, and I'm certainly no expert on current setting. For sure you don't need to always leave it on 60A. I set mine on 30A and leave it there unless it doesn't cut, then I kick it up.

Have you tried the new fine cut consumables?

Grant

I dunno about a chart, but as a general rule of thumb, thicker metal requires higher amps and slower speeds.

This row of 7" tall candeleholders was cut from 14 g with a Hypertherm 1000 using the Finecut torch and consumables @ 25 amps, 60 ipm. Cuts were relatively dross free, very little warping.

In 14 g @ 60 ipm, the Finecut kerf is about .0625; the kerf from the standard torch at the same setting about .125, so there's a helluva difference in cut quality if you're cutting detailed stuff from light material.

Depends on what you're doing. I have a 1250 and most of the time I just leave the 80amp nozzle in and run full tilt. What this does on thin stock is allow for a very high travel speed with a very clean cut (though the kerf is about 1/8" wide). This is great for straight cuts following a straight edge or the like.

For finer cuts and free hand you need to change nozzles. Either use the 40 amp nozzle or go with the fine cut. Both require lower settings and slower travel speeds but leave a finer kerf.

--More info please; How are these different from other components?

Right now most of my cutting will be freehand, or using some sort of template or straightedge. I'm working on a CNC table but won't be done with it for a while.

Since I don't have any consumables, just the 60A nozzle that came in the torch, I'll go ahead and purchase some electrodes, and a couple 60A and 40A nozzles to start with. Once I get the hang of things I'll try the fine cut pieces.

So trial and error seems to be the best method. I know the basics, and just need to fine tune the process to get the clean cuts I want.

Thanks.

Wayne Cook wrote:

Ok - I read all of the posts - I have a lowly 600 but have a CNC 4'x4' table.

User of a Hypertherm for over a year and have a beautiful 50' RT50 for outside work.

The concepts are inside the booklet provided (if you have one). However - the physics of this 4 state of matter is :

1. temp melts. Temp won't be high unless power is present.
2. As it boils down to simply : current density. Amps / unit area.
3. Fine cut kicks as the hole is small density is high - if the current is moving - stopped current is just electrons on lunch hour.

1. I use max current and just cut faster. I test cut and adjust speed.

1. The most important element is dry air. Read that DRY air.

Wish I lived in Az or El Paso or ... - I live near a river and not far from the Gulf. Plenty of filtering and problems.

Ok - lets say a damp air tank is used - you get steam at the tip and the dross solidifies and doesn't blow away by the air - or the torch can't cut through.

Cut vertically - that means perpendicular to the surface if possible - shorter path through metal.

If possible - come in from the edge or start in a hole - drill one ?! -

The Hypertherm starts a burn and when it senses current flow (from the voltage applied) it then steps up the current and pours on the heat.

Generally by hand you will use the current (high) that is needed when cutting heavy materials. When cutting thin sheet - cut it back and find a right fit for your manual speed.

One thing that is useful for you without tables - a wood form can be used as a guide. Another is to use a right angle across a sheet - have it clamped down and run the torch down the high side as a guide. Remember the offset - about 1/2"...

Learned that trick from my metal vendor who has a Hypertherm also.

I have all of the little books if a page is wanted/needed....

Martin

Mart> I've just begun using my Hypertherm 1000 plasma cutter, (my first