Is it possible to tig pot metal?

Welding potmetal is really "casting in place". The stuff is so hotshort it needs to be supported with ceramic putty or sand, as if doing a casting. I got the water-based re-usable blue ceramic putty from Eastwood, but I don't know if they still have it. Basicallly encase the part in support medium with the break exposed, so when you melt it it is confined and can't go anywhere. Add filler to the puddle (which will be larger than when welding steel or aluminum), let cool and finish grind or file to "like new". Plating is optional.

I use O/A rather than TIG for potmetal. I can control the heat better, not burn out the zinc, and of course I can see what I'm doing better because no mask or goggles are required.

For filler, use other potmetal bits, or that so-called "miracle rod" or rub-on rod that supposedly welds aluminum without flux. I don't think much of it for aluminum, but it works great on potmetal -- probably because it basically *is* potmetal.

If you know anyone that does casting, petrobond sand works great for this.

Yeah, keep all the internal "pivot" rivets in the latch mechanism well oiled. I've replaced the one in my '94 because it broke off after the pivots froze due to rust and general lack of lubrication. The one in my old '85 I was able to rescue before it got that far by a suitable application of Kroil. Of course, if yours failed because it simply worn though, you can safely ignore this. Have you looked at junkyards for them? Sometimes for small furniture like this a yard will let you have it for cheap money if you don't make them go get it. I seem to recall that the '94 was relatively easy to get at/out... YMMV --Glenn Lyford