is this thing broken?

Obviously I don't want to encourage digression - but I will say my thanks for this adventitious nugget of wisdom. "We" in Europe have been offered essentially this explanation. Hence your first-hand experience, a microcosm, validated by "chain-of-trust".

This is what I was hoping for. I think I see it now.

May I run my "take" on it past you, testing it in every which way...?

From this ramjet engine with a nuclear power-plant in the middle heating the air (no mass-rate, but is a heat-rate):

the exit/exhaust cone is bigger than the inlet cone - hence the sum of forces is nett in the "progression" direction.

the reason the exit cone is bigger is that, keeping the same pressure but now with thermal energy from the supplied heat (think gas laws, models of bouncing/recoiling gas atoms/molecules, etc.)... To keep fairly much the same pressure profile as the inlet cone the exhaust cone has to be bigger in expanding the gas to a bigger volume - to get it "down to the same pressure" (as the corresponding place in the inlet cone).

I will go try read the article.

Sorry I am on the tail-end of a "winter 'lurghi'" (we have a 'lurghi' season here in Britain where by February people often feel like daubing a red cross on their front door and giving-up) - sorry brain still fuzzy.

PS - thanks for pointing-out thinking about a ramjet in terms of the Bernoulli energy conservation in fluid flow equation. Yup - Bernoulli equation is a "familiar friend" having used it in foundry work.

This is what I was hoping for. I think I see it now.

May I run my "take" on it past you, testing it in every which way...?

From this ramjet engine with a nuclear power-plant in the middle heating the air (no mass-rate, but is a heat-rate):

the exit/exhaust cone is bigger than the inlet cone - hence the sum of forces is nett in the "progression" direction.

the reason the exit cone is bigger is that, keeping the same pressure but now with thermal energy from the supplied heat (think gas laws, models of bouncing/recoiling gas atoms/molecules, etc.)... To keep fairly much the same pressure profile as the inlet cone the exhaust cone has to be bigger in expanding the gas to a bigger volume - to get it "down to the same pressure" (as the corresponding place in the inlet cone).

I will go try read the article.

Sorry I am on the tail-end of a "winter 'lurghi'" (we have a 'lurghi' season here in Britain where by February people often feel like daubing a red cross on their front door and giving-up) - sorry brain still fuzzy.

---------------------------------------------- Among the long German words I had to learn was spring fever's equivalent, Fruhjahrsmudigkeit.

That explanation makes sense to me, but much in fluid dynamics doesn't such as L/D and the low drag of rounded leading edges, as on torpedoes and the Mach 25 Space Shuttle. I especially don't trust extrapolating subsonic to supersonic shock wave flow in the ram jet intake. I still struggle with nozzle discharge coefficient and machine them by cut-and-try. It's only a hobby interest to me, my paid work in aerospace was communications.

My ability to accurately visualize physics doesn't approach that level.

"they are promising to spend money they do not have on weapons which do not exist".

------------------------------- And man was never meant to fly.

As absurd as that may appear if you do not know how, government bonds and anticipated tax revenues are spendable money that doesn't actually exist (yet) and my job was turning theoretical proposals into functional hardware.

For me the tangible return on money thrown into space was my home, vehicles and retirement accounts. The government can recirculate military and space spending back into the economy as a control mechanism that is independent of consumer supply and demand. Since our beginning Congress has ensured that the money is distributed as widely as possible, with each district receiving a fair share in exchange for support.

One tragic consequence was the Shuttle's rocket boosters being built in transportable jointed sections in Utah instead of a single piece in Florida.

"Early year's state-of-tiredness"

You can simply want winter to end. It can "drag-on". But aagghhhh the "lurghi season". Especially in shared houses with people going to Universities, different jobs, young teachers, etc. - all exposed to different abundant sources of the latest virus doing the rounds... Yup, the February "I just want to give up" feeling as you fill the waste-paper-bin by the bed with green goo saturated strong "kitchen roll" papers as you lie there groaning from the umpteenth virus in succession. (a "tissue" from a fanfold box would be like a paper target benefitting from a close-up shotgun blast)

"Early year's state-of-tiredness"

You can simply want winter to end. It can "drag-on". But aagghhhh the "lurghi season". Especially in shared houses with people going to Universities, different jobs, young teachers, etc. - all exposed to different abundant sources of the latest virus doing the rounds... Yup, the February "I just want to give up" feeling as you fill the waste-paper-bin by the bed with green goo saturated strong "kitchen roll" papers as you lie there groaning from the umpteenth virus in succession. (a "tissue" from a fanfold box would be like a paper target benefitting from a close-up shotgun blast)

---------------------------------- Yep, 2 layer paper towels. I try not to use the same pocketed one to blow my nose and wipe the oil dipstick.

They claim the newer cold nostrums don't also make you a mindless zombie.

Cabin fever is real. There used to be (maybe still is) a machinist get together called Cabin Fever where various hobbyists and on-line machinist personalities would get together to break up that doldrum. They would mostly perforate the poop, but there was also some horse trading, and maybe a friendly competition or two. Never went myself. Winter in SW Arizona is to nice to waste it visiting folks in snow country, but they posted a few videos that looked like fun. Like seeing who can dial in a part the fastest in a 4 jaw chuck. Stuff like that. FYI: The one I watched Adam Booth was fastest on the 4 jaw.

Here it's temperate, but rains - often "mizzle" - somewhere between a mist and a drizzle. Other times it is simply raining - and it can do it for a long time - often on a 45deg or more slant as the winds rotate-in from the West and South-West, from the lows out over the North Atlantic.

Vast amount of lighter stuff now stowed on boards in the roof-space, managed to settle down with the paraffin stove radiating at me - and oh yes it felt "good to be home". I used to mechanic motorcycles in the garage at my folks' home as a youth - and was well set-up. Here it comes again... As I've mentioned - maybe I could get a lathe, a little milling machine or shaper, ... Begin to make mechanical things...

Plans are coming as I sit there in the space and warmth...

Air-compressor up on a platform just under the roof (so it takes up no floor-space). Iron pipe the length of the garden to the "hard-standing" area where I could make lean-to's to cover mineral separation equipment. Pneumatic single-head stamp for bashing-up sacks-full of ore? Just flick the lever up and down and it's like a sledgehammer but neater and more enclosed so bits don't go flying - what goes in all comes out the discharge... Air-hydraulic pump for useful rarely used hydraulic things? - energy inefficient yes, but simple, totally reliable, just stalls on overload, and can be left out but under cover.

Thoughts thoughts thoughts - big picture is it's a sign of optimism.

I used to mechanic motorcycles in the garage at my folks' home as a youth - and was well set-up. Here it comes again... As I've mentioned - maybe I could get a lathe, a little milling machine or shaper, ... Begin to make mechanical things...

---------------------

I rebuilt old motorcycles too, made no money but learned a lot, such as I'm not a businessman. Reboring worn cylinders requires a larger milling machine than I have room for, I still need to send some larger work to a nearby shop, which is also the source for cutoffs of steel in a size I don't have and can do shearing and bending well beyond reasonable home shop capacity.

The 4" x 6" horizontal bandsaw I bought happened to be made well enough to clean up and align for square cuts, their reputation is often poor. I assume any decently priced used machine tool has something wrong the owner couldn't fix and am usually right, but I've diagnosed, understood and salvaged them. The exception has been estate sales.

My first small metal lathe has only a 4 jaw chuck and change gears for thread cutting. While they make it slow to set up it still can do anything within its size and rigidity limits, which isn't saying much. The second lathe, all I could ask for, is a 1965 South Bend Heavy 10 with 5C collets and a quick change gearbox. Its antiquated flat leather belt drive and threaded spindle mount have not been problems, actually they make some tasks easier, like stopping the cut right at the end of a thread by declutching the belt and adding a spindle index dial behind the chuck to shave an internal hex socket. The lathe was easily adapted to metric for laser optics, and later making automotive special tools etc.

Neither lathe or my mill has dimension readouts beyond the handle dials and for one-off custom work to my own design or to repair worn parts I don't need digital readouts. I take a rough cut, measure it, and move inward as needed. This compensates for worn leadscrews. The limit of accuracy is the measuring tool, not the old machine.

Air-compressor up on a platform just under the roof (so it takes up no floor-space).

--------------------------------

Compressors may need maintenance access for tightening pulley screws, adjusting the cutoff pressure, draining condensation and changing oil, fixing leaks etc. Mine is on the floor in a corner too near the stove for other use and can be walked out for access to the belt side.

I got by with a 1/2 HP compressor assembled from new and used components until acquiring a plasma cutter. Then I happened onto a 60 gallon upright ($75) that had tipped over and needed a new pump, which Harbor Freight provided. I don't set it over 100 PSI so I changed the motor pulley to increase pumping speed and confirmed its current draw remained in spec.

As I've mentioned - maybe I could get a lathe, a little milling machine or shaper, ... Begin to make mechanical things...

-------------------------------- Size-wise:

Machines of that size could handle most (all?) of what I've built too. Lathe swing is the maximum work diameter near the spindle, as for turning and facing the driver wheels, or pulleys and gear blanks. It's less over the carriage. The mill can cut gear teeth with an indexer.

My compressor is also in a corner, but it has to be serviced in place. In order to reduce vibration and noise I placed it on rubber pads cut from old tire treads, and through bolted it to the concrete floor. One thing I did before placement was put a street elbow the bottom in place of the drain. Then a long nipple with a long handle ball valve on the end. I open it everyday to blow out condensation accumulated in the tank. On really buys days with lots of machines running I open it a few times per day. I get some moisture in my prefilter still, but since putting int he 75CFM Schultz dryer I haven't had any on the post filter.

In case you haven't found this yet... read this forum post here:

That's for one transfer case and it seems there maybe three different ones used. Several more posts after that first one with more info. Way too much computer controlled stuff for my tastes😬️

And I'm not sure any of those are the Bronco your interested in😆️

In case you haven't found this yet... read this forum post here:

That's for one transfer case and it seems there maybe three different ones used. Several more posts after that first one with more info. Way too much computer controlled stuff for my tastes😬️

And I'm not sure any of those are the Bronco your interested in😆️

-- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI

-----------------------------------

Thank you, that is very good. I'm familiar with rebuilding the oil filled multiplate clutches on motorcycles.

My checklist includes AWD and a full sized spare, the last time I had a tire puncture repaired was this past Wednesday and I couldn't have found the tiny wire staple (?) beside the road, it took a lot of soapy water spray.

My 2000 CRV has a slippable AWD clutch activated by a difference in oil flows from pumps driven at front and rear driveshaft speeds. It's a somewhat fussy system that noisily demands fluid changes every 25,000 miles, though with proper care old CRVs can last 300,000 miles. I'm at 86,000. The more I look at new vehicles the more I hope to keep the old ones going. Though not as simple as cars used to be they are tolerable to repair and I have the paper factory shop manuals which I can't get for a new one. Mine are taller and less aerodynamic, so the door is several inches higher and I don't have to bend my creaky old neck to get in without hitting.

My 91 Ranger has an electric transfer case shift motor that's considered an expensive liability. The motor can shift (slowly) between 4WD hi and 2WD on the fly but the front hubs don't disconnect until driven backwards, and sometimes not then depending on how the hub grease feels about it. The system is fine for logging and severe winter snowstorms but demands dirt bike sliding reflexes when the roads are mostly dry with scattered ice patches.

I had a small part in the early development of ABS and share the "reluctance" about the exposed magnetic wheel speed sensors that are also traction control inputs.

My 1982 Chevy K10 came with those hubs and supposed shift on the fly. Hardcore four-wheelers replaced them early on. Had a tendency to self destruct when trying to rock your way out of being stuck...

I eventually replaced them with manual hubs too. Didn't trust them to release and didn't want to mess around cleaning, re-lubing them. Spec called for a special grease. A nice benefit was getting pseudo 2-Low. Low range was really nice for climbing on ramps, moving trailers around and just idling about without drive train wrap-up.

Replaced it with a used 2013 Chevy Impala. I try really hard to stay off the roads when they're salted. Wait for them to be clear and less salty before heading out...

My 1982 Chevy K10 came with those hubs and supposed shift on the fly. Hardcore four-wheelers replaced them early on. Had a tendency to self destruct when trying to rock your way out of being stuck...

I eventually replaced them with manual hubs too. Didn't trust them to release and didn't want to mess around cleaning, re-lubing them. Spec called for a special grease. A nice benefit was getting pseudo 2-Low. Low range was really nice for climbing on ramps, moving trailers around and just idling about without drive train wrap-up.

Replaced it with a used 2013 Chevy Impala. I try really hard to stay off the roads when they're salted. Wait for them to be clear and less salty before heading out...

It was a long time ago, maybe 30 years... Don't remember where I bought them but pretty sure it was locally. Amazon wasn't around yet😉️ Superwinch, looked a lot like these and went in decent. Only trouble I had was getting the final cap and O-ring to fit into the steel hub. It was REALLY tight.

From your link... I'd try the Warn hub and not sweat it for what you do with your truck. Monster tires, hopped up motor and a fool at the wheel can break anything😆️