is this thing broken?

Actually any 2 of the three - and sometimes just the third one on his own - - -

Actually any 2 of the three - and sometimes just the third one on his own - - -

--------------------- I preferred a motorcycle for mountain camping trips and trail riding with this club:

The Ranger has stock tires and the 2.3l 100HP engine, more than enough for slow congested commuting and capable of 28 MPG. The forest where I logged is now housing, the only rocky hill left to crawl is my back lot.

I try not to be the third, I held their beer and acted impressed while friends did the "watch this". I was never in the driver's seat when the battery broke loose on landing and hit the fan.

This seems a good place for:

It's a good example of misinterpreting incomplete evidence to support an assumed conclusion. Another is the Grassy Knoll theory where the loud bang and mist cloud of a broken soda bottle has been taken as gunshot evidence, despite modern powder being completely smokeless. Zapruder's receptionist didn't mention the bottle breaking until 1966 and the interview was lost until 1985.

I find that smoking a little mullein helps with the chest congestion and runny nose . I was making tea with it , but smoking it acts faster and pinpoints the areas that benefit the most .

I know I'm chiming in ait late here ... but my bench top mill is an RF45 clone , and it's been more than enough mill for all my projects . Including multiple gears cut , end mills sharpened (with a fixture) and all kinds of other projects . I highly recommend a rotary table for indexing , mine's 90:1 gear ratio .

Local tire shop charged me 44 bucks to rotate and balance on the 'Yota . He also charged me 40 bucks to clean up the rim and remount a tire for my tractor - and earned every dime , that wheel was in horrible shape when he started , rusty and nasty . Tips go in a lunch fund for the crew ...

That was only tragic because POLITICIANS demanded that launch take place when it did . I still had contacts at Thiokol at that time and they warned that those o-rings were too cold to obdurate properly to seal the joint .

I know I'm chiming in ait late here ... but my bench top mill is an RF45 clone , and it's been more than enough mill for all my projects . Including multiple gears cut , end mills sharpened (with a fixture) and all kinds of other projects . I highly recommend a rotary table for indexing , mine's 90:1 gear ratio . Snag

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Thanks. I'm not familiar with new machinery and my nice 1950's/60's American iron is scarce.

I get more use from a 1965 South Bend than I ever could a 1965 Mustang.

I know I'm chiming in ait late here ... but my bench top mill is an RF45 clone , and it's been more than enough mill for all my projects . Including multiple gears cut , end mills sharpened (with a fixture) and all kinds of other projects . I highly recommend a rotary table for indexing , mine's 90:1 gear ratio . Snag

------------------------------ Have you tried boring a cylinder accurately with it?

My 1950's Clausing 8525 bores slightly tapered from wear that allows the quill to deflect more from cutting force as it extends down. The later model has separate bolts for quill clearance and locking, on mine one bolt does both. It's better when boring by raising the knee.

The wear wasn't a concern until I reconditioned a hydraulic pump and tried for minimal bearing clearance.

The RF-31 I ordered from MSC for the company shop wasn't quite square on any axis, and the tee slots weren't parallel to the travel. 0.005" was about the limit of its accuracy. It was adequate to replace a badly worn drill press, that's all. When I needed higher precision (rarely) I did the work at home on overtime.

For gear cutting (precision anyway) an indexing head might be far better than a rotary table. In either case advance to every position in the same direction and with light pressure on the handle lock the rotation.

Yeah, but the 65 mustang in similar functional condition (no holes, and works) might have better resale value. That being said I had the opportunity to buy a few cars cheap as a young man that people would kill for today.

If I had a £ $ etc for every person I knew that said 'If I had only kept that sports car from when I was a student it would be worth a fortune now' I would be quite well off. Sell the Mustang and you might me able to buy mint US iron machine tool or new.

I've never used an indexing head so I have no basis for comparison but my RT with the index plates does as precise a job as I've ever needed . I used the RT to make a 50 hole plate for a project that needed one ...

If I had a £ $ etc for every person I knew that said 'If I had only kept that sports car from when I was a student it would be worth a fortune now' I would be quite well off. Sell the Mustang and you might me able to buy mint US iron machine tool or new.

---------------------------- I bought my machines before they became collectable.

The only sporty vehicle from the 70's I have storage space for is my CB400F motorcycle. My BIL, a VW/Audi mechanic, restores old German and Italian sports cars to showroom condition but it cost building a multi-bay barn with a lift and paying its taxes.

I attend Cruisin' Nights and talk to the owners about what they did and where they find parts and specialty skills. Most had the skill to write a big check though one lady went into long credible detail about how she rebuilt the engine. The cars are lovely but all that many can carry is passengers and maybe golf bags, I need serious capacity for heavy or long structural material, most recently 21' pipe lengths on the roof rack.

I've never used an indexing head so I have no basis for comparison but my RT with the index plates does as precise a job as I've ever needed . I used the RT to make a 50 hole plate for a project that needed one ...

I've had a couple as well, but buying them, putting them on blocks, and covering them (or in wet climates putting them on blocks indoors) would have been phenomenal.

I had a Dodge Dart and a Plymouth Scamp (same year, same time, same car, different badging). Who would have ever thought they would be collectible. I also had a 69 t-bird with the interceptor engine. I knew that one would be collectible, but circumstances forced me to abandon it in a parking lot. I remember once complimenting an old guys early Mustang convertible, and he offered to sell it to me on the spot dirt cheap. Had a few options like that.

Nobody can predict the future, but there are so many opportunities passed by.

I've had a couple as well, but buying them, putting them on blocks, and covering them (or in wet climates putting them on blocks indoors) would have been phenomenal.

I had a Dodge Dart and a Plymouth Scamp (same year, same time, same car, different badging). Who would have ever thought they would be collectible. I also had a 69 t-bird with the interceptor engine. I knew that one would be collectible, but circumstances forced me to abandon it in a parking lot. I remember once complimenting an old guys early Mustang convertible, and he offered to sell it to me on the spot dirt cheap. Had a few options like that.

Nobody can predict the future, but there are so many opportunities passed by. Bob La Londe

-------------------------------------- I have a 1980 Honda Accord in the garage, in use as a closet. I brought it in to patch some rust holes, then found the lathe which the dealer unloaded behind it, locking it in until I or my flying pigs clear another space for the lathe. It was the last car able to pass emissions without a catcon, due to the lean burning CVCC engine.

Look how much these people are asking for similar ones.

I've owned a few of those. What would my '49 split window beetle be worth today?? Or my '53 Coronet Sierra hemi? More than my Myford Super 7 that's taking space in my garage today -

- -

At 17 I could have bought a 1929 Durant 6 cyl. coupe with 42,000 miles on the clock that had been in the barn for 14 years but I wanted a car to driv NOW. The guy that bought it for $50 dragged it down the road till he got it running then a week latter pushed it into the swamp when it threw a rod though the sid of the block.

At 17 I could have bought a 1929 Durant 6 cyl. coupe with 42,000 miles on the clock that had been in the barn for 14 years but I wanted a car to driv NOW. The guy that bought it for $50 dragged it down the road till he got it running then a week latter pushed it into the swamp when it threw a rod though the sid of the block.

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The time I've spent keeping my old car and truck on the road would have cost several times their value if I couldn't do the jobs myself. I was quoted $3500 to fix the rust on one rear fender. Another shop quoted $800 just to weld the quarter-sized hole on other side, painting extra. My second hand MIG welder cost less than half of that.

They evade questions about the machine shop work and electronic module troubleshooting. For the frozen 4mm distributor cap screw that broke the answer was don't bother, the two remaining screws will hold the cap well enough. I didn't ask about the stainless replacement captive screw I made on the lathe.

A custom shop told me that their estimate to restore a classic begins at $25,000. My body welding is detectable up close, "OK for an amateur", theirs isn't.

After solving the intermittent ignition problem on my pre-OBDII 91 Ranger with an oscilloscope and the factory manuals I asked a dealer and a custom tuning shop about it. Both had gotten rid of their manuals and old test equipment, a mechanic had taken the dealer's home.

I've been watching a nearby Malibu to Chevelle SS conversion. Finding parts seems dependent on knowing who has the right wreck to plunder. At least the car is simple relative to new ones and his wife works for a welding supplier. On 12/17 I peeked under a $70k Bronco and didn't understand half of it.

Hello Snag, everyone

I haven't got any machine tool(s) yet. What risked some serious problems was not getting things with my home done. So put up a fence (and every learning thing that entailed - complexity was when the fence was originally made the set the upright timbers into the wall as it was being built - which didn't make for an easy replacement(!) [BTW "SDS Max" standard seems well worth having - I've got pick and chisel bits 900mm long and they work well - and the shank is strong enough you can waggle the drill around to free them is they get nipped - I'd say masonry drill up to 16mm go SDS; greater than

I've been told - you really really want to have a cover for precision machine tools if the workspace is mainly a welding and metal-fab. space.

Best wishes to you all and a happy Christmas, Rich S