It LIVES!!!

Well, after several interruptions, I finally got everything wired up
tonight. Reading through the manual was worse than stereo instructions
though. I finally thought I was ready, so I turned on the house breaker,
and then the garage breaker. Unit powered up and I started setting the
paramaters I thought I needed. Then turned on the interrupt switch and
then the main switch to the compressor. No sparks flying...good...
Try the Jog button first. Nothing happens. Ok, well, I'll try turning
the Hz down from 60 to 6 and try it. Click-click-click-click-(hit the
stop button)click-click....
Hmm...maybe just too slow. Bump it up to 18 Hz. Click-click-click(almost
hit the stop, but it start turning)click-click-click(hit the stop button
anyway)click-click....
Ok, verified that the flywheel and motor are turning in the correct
direction. Turn it back up to 60 Hz. Ok, time to check the cutout for
the pressure switch circuit this time too. Press Run and
click-click-click-turn-thump-thump-thump... It is turning, and up to speed
now, but hey the cutout is off, it shouldn't be running...hit stop. It
slows down and ends with click-click-click...
Look through the book. Aha! The coast command and the line lockout
command (which is different than setting the line lockout paramaters) are
in the same paramater. Set now! Time to test. Push Run, nothing. Aha!
It works right. Flip the switch and press Run, click-click-click-turn!
Not too happy about the click-click noises, but it is running.
Let it get up to about 100psi, pretty darn quick too. Sounds like a
muscle car idling with a bad muffler, but not revving the engine. Noisy,
but it probably sounds like an idling muscle car without a bad muffler
from outside. Power hammer should make just as much noise when I'm done,
and hearing protection will be used.
I'm a little concerned that the oil pressure is reading in the high
section almost immediately, and climbs somewhat over the course of the
test. That might be due to the oil that is in it. Which likely means I
can't really warm it up safely before changing it. Oh well. It was a bit
cold too when I started up. I did have the propane heater running while I
was working so it wasn't too cold when I started it. No leaks could be
heard when it was shut down. Whoo-hoo! Noticed that the drain valve has
a bent handle stem. I guess I need to replace that. I think I'll just
run some black iron pipe there and put the valve at waist level near the
door to make it easy to drain. Currently venting down as I write this up.
I'll grab the video tomorrow after work and try and post a link to it here
before too awfully late.
Thanks for everybody who helped me get this far.
Todd
Reply to
Todd Rich
Loading thread data ...
Ok, here is the video. Same video, different quality: Large 100M file:
formatting link
Small 3M file:
formatting link
The compressor works!
(Some anti-virus programs don't like sendspace, but it seems to be legit, just 'add-y')
Btw, the comment about shutting off at 150psi is because that is the default setting for the pressure switch, but it can and probably was adjusted higher, I'm just a little nervous with all that energy stored in the tank.
Todd
Reply to
Todd Rich
File DL is very slow, looking like 30 min for the big file.
Anyone every hear of a compressor exploding? I've seen tanks rust through and leak, but never anything more eventful than that.
Thank You, Randy
Remove 333 from email address to reply.
Reply to
Randy
(snip)
Sorry about that. I had a friend with a fast connection test it and it only took him about 5 minutes. I guess their servers are somewhat variable. Or as more people download it, they throttle the bandwidth.
I wouldn't be quite so nervous, but I did tip it over while moving it. It looks like it was the air filter and pulley shroud that took the brunt of the impact, but I'm still a little nervous about it.
Todd
Reply to
Todd Rich
Todd, Some thing is wrong with it! It should NOT sound like that when it starts up. If you jog it for say 20 sec dose that nasty sound stop like it does after a bit at full speed?
William...
Reply to
William
(snip)
Jog doesn't move it. And it sounds like that starting up even after it has been run for a bit. I belive it is due to the VFD trying to run it with not enough power/speed for the motor as part of it's ramp up, as it had the same sound before I switched it from ramp down to coast when I was shutting it off. I was going to check the paramaters it has for the ramp-up to see if I can get it to start with a higher voltage/frequency to bypass that range.
I don't know if you can tell, but it makes that sound before the motor actually starts moving, and for the first second or so of moving, so it isn't the compressor itself. It is the motor/vfd.
Reply to
Todd Rich
Todd, open the electrical box on the compressor when you start it, and watch what is going on in there. That sound seems to me to be the contactor in there chattering. With the VFD running the motor you should not even need that contactor connected.
Thank You, Randy
Remove 333 from email address to reply.
Reply to
Randy
Where exactly should I be looking?
formatting link
Should I remove the whole lower Allen-Bradley unit?
I'm afraid I'm really not that up on what is in that box.
Btw, thanks!
Reply to
Todd Rich
I sure heard the clanks when it started. Before I had the electronic controls on my little Quincy it also made a click when starting. There is something like a little lathe dog that drives the vane-type oil pump. I'm guessing that finger is supposed to snap off if the pump ever bound up to avoid total destruction of the pump. But, if the compressor is allowed to stop while still loaded, the cylinder pressure will bring it to a bouncing stop, and the pin may no longer be near the slot in the pump, allowing the compressor to start spinning before the pin catches up to the pump. I was kind of concerned about that impact eventually breaking the pin. Anyway, my controller now unloads the pump and allows it to idle for 30 seconds to see if more air is needed. If not, then the compressor is stopped while unloaded, and the unloader air is not turned off until the compressor is at a complete stop. I don't get the click anymore. Those clanks may also be the intake valves bouncing as the compressor is spinning up (although it sounded prettu loud).
Jon
Reply to
Jon Elson
I've seen the end result. Some ME's at our University do accident investigations on the side, and I saw a blown compressor in their truck once. The tank was unrolled and almost perfectly flat. This was a little roll-around 2 Hp or so unit. Generally, if they were investigating, there were fatalities.
Jon
Reply to
Jon Elson
Ahhh, lucky for you that is a tough VFD or you would have already smoked it. Just bypass ALL the stuff in there, wire the VFD straight to the 3 motor wires. The pressure switch should be wired to the VFD's control input.
Jon
Reply to
Jon Elson
yes and the top too, you need none of it just remove the whole thing from the compressor...
Bingo I assumed that you had trashed all that VERY old AB stuff in that box.
Remove it and let us know if it stops that nasty noise.
William....
Reply to
William
(snip)
So overbuying saved my butt. It never even came up with an error code.
Well, I took out the lower portion, though it looks like the upper switch is actually riveted into the box. Spliced in some wire to jump the gap between the two sets of wires. (proper gage, 6-3 stranded copper). Started it up and it sounds right now. No hesitation and smooth ramp-up.
The pressure switch was already wired into the VFD's control input. I still haven't found what the pressure switch it set for, but it is at least 160psi. I know that the control input is wired right because I have an extra switch wired into that loop and when I shut it off it turns off the motor. I'll turn it down a ways and see if I can't tweak it to where I want it.
It was obvious that I hadn't warmed up the shop though, because the pressure started to head to the redline. I turned it off, and I'll warm up the shop ahead of the next time, so it can thin out before the pressure gets too high. Then when it is nice and warmed up, I'll change the oil.
Todd
Reply to
Todd Rich
(snip)
Done.
Nope, and a couple of people even said just wire it in. It is gone now (well the upper portion is there, but bypassed). I'll hold onto it in case I sell it later.
Sounds much nicer now. I'll take some video tomorrow/Monday when I start it up to warm up the oil for an oil change.
Todd
Reply to
Todd Rich

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