The motor is smaller than the bandsaw i bought in 1988 , far less power.
I had to grind out the guides where the push ballbearings were , had to move them over til the blade centered .
The 2 pinch BB are grossly missalligned , you'll need to mill the square ways on the tiny holders to get them to grab and pull the blade in . The upper wheel has a bad cantilever ,too close together , will deflect too easy . I had to grind out the casting , the upper wheel adjuster bottomed out ! They built a newer model with a single ballbearing on top wheel , but it uses cheap flimsy alum/potmetal holders for blade guides !!
The lip on the big wheels could be bigger so blade cant jump back . ussualy it falls off fwd , but while trying to get the angle right on the mill job on guide pedistal , it jumped off the backside and extruded the blade to uselessness .
My head has a picture of a recip saw using all the blades i ruined . It uses a 9 amp hand held car polisher motor , using half a bandsaw blade . about 33" long , with BB guides ...
BTW helped a frnd do a Dodge Stratus 2400cc engine flywheel !! It has 2 shoulders ! I depthmiked them . Well be lathing out the stupid thing so you can get a sleeve in around the bolt to pull it off .
You must put lots of push on that bolt . We'll be putting a sleeve around the bolt and it will be easy to pull flywheel w/o stressing the bolt at all . 5/8 gd 8 bolts and a flat plate w/ holes will make a better wheelpuller than what the factory recommends . Just shim the bolt head into the flywheel crack , push bolt thru the plate , nut it and titen . The flywheel is designed NOT for flat belts , as it is 4 times mo rigid beefy than required . Flat belts can take power with far less bearing loads than the old V belts . The belt is about 10 honest HP ! Also