Well there certainly is more to a oil burner nozzle than just simply
replacing nozzle with like item, especially if its not going back into
the original furnace it was setup in. Depends on distance from nozzle
face to chamber wall and how large and what shape the combusiton
chamber is and it can dictate a nozzle change entirely different than
what you now have, and yes, it should be burning blue with white for
it to be operating efficieintly and at peak heat.......yellow is a
sign of insufficient combustion and could be caused by too much fuel
or too large of nozzle or using wrong style (hollow vrs solid) and the
nozzles cone degree.....
Go to Delevans website a read up on oil burner nozzles.
Even air gap between electordes andhow far ahead air spiner is from
nozzle face and electrode placement all afects how a burner burns, as
well as psi from pump and air supply. HOwever lots of screwups
inproper adjustment can be eliminated once a furnace is up to heat,
and only efficiency loses, but with a waste oil burner its not really
an issue.....maybe in a home and paaying for heating oil it may make a
big difference in operational costs but probably not in a furnace.
About the only thng one can do with a nozzle is clean the filter. SOme
use sintered metal others us fine mesh. Trying to clean the orifice is
not gonna work as its way to easy to get hole off centered or nick it.
Trying to clean one usually causes more problems than its worth. If
its setup right the nozzle will not coke over and get spray pattern
off......if filtered fuel is used it won't clog up.....as that nozzles
filter on the backside is sufficient to catch any junk that may get
past a filter, an its much smaller than the nozzle orifice is, so its
not always a good idea to swap filters on one nozzle with one of a
different size just because it fits. Those filters are sized according
to orifice openings.
Also having wrong nozzle and setup and too close to chamber wall can
also cause the face of a nozzle to deform and also the air spinner
diffuser and flame retention ring to melt or deform...... Yea, it may
be only a foundry furnace, but its still easy to adjust and do it
right since you have the parts on an operating burner., may as well
make it the way it should be. Delevans website has lots of info on
nozzles and adjustments etc, well worth looking at.
I have been fooling around with using oil as the fuel in my foundry
furnace. Some of you may remember my experiments using a small paint gun
as a burner for diesel fuel. A kind gent wrote to me and offered me a
Becket gun style furnace burner for HHO (home heating oil). I am burning
diesel fuel in it to start, just because I had some from an old fuel tank
and it looks too nasty to put back in my truck. I got it going (needed a
new nozzle) and melted some aluminum with it. It sure is nice to be able
to just plug it in and it lights. And hot...ooh MAMA!
I hope to convert it to WMO (waste motor oil), but it does real well as is.
Lots of pictures here:
Click the links titled:
Melting aluminum with diesel fuel
The beginnings of a waste oil foundry
Unaltered Becket home heating burner as a foundry furnace burner
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