lost webpage - using weedwhacker string for "thread locking" - ie nylock

G'Day,

I recall seeing a webpage where there was some pictures of a threaded device which used a piece of weedwhacker string pressed through a hole to serves as a form of threadlock - similar to a nylock.

Now I need something like that in my design, and I don't recall the website. Does anyone know the website page I'm describing? What is the URL?

I'm making up some little machine jacks for settign a sinebar, and they tend to move a littel when they are maneuvered into position, I'd prefer the thread lock action as opposed to the bulk of a lock nut.

Thanks, Des remove the german anti-spam device if direct replying

Reply to
des bromilow
Loading thread data ...

I haven't seen that webpage, but what also might work is Vibra-Tite VC-3. It is a thread locker you apply before assembly and let dry. It dries to a soft plastic coating that lets you adjust the scew but keeps it from vibrating loose.

formatting link

Reply to
anorton

========== That sounds like the KFR Omnipost tool holders. They use this method on the vertical adjustment screw and it seems to work well on the few holders I have made.

see

formatting link
To see some pictures of this tool holder in the flesh click on
formatting link

-- Unka George (George McDuffee) .............................. The past is a foreign country; they do things differently there. L. P. Hartley (1895-1972), British author. The Go-Between, Prologue (1953).

Reply to
F. George McDuffee

I don't remember a website -- but I do remember posting here the advice to another regular's question the suggestion that he try that technique. I've seen commercial screws with such inserts, and when I've needed a locking feature in existing screws, I've used the technique. I simply would find some nylon string of a reasonable size for the screw size, drill a hole perhaps between 1/2 and 3/4 the diameter of the screw, shove in the nylon, and cut it off flush with the crest of the threads. For really small nylon string -- try either fishing line (leader perhaps) or Classical guitar strings.

For somewhat larger -- aside from weed whacker strings, you might get some scraps from a place which restrings tennis rackets.

The other regular tried that, and it did what he needed.

Why do you need a web page to do this? Just do it. :-)

Setting a sinebar on jacks? How do you get the precision you want? Normally, I use a stack of cheap Chinese gauge blocks -- though I might try an adjustable parallel if I needed a variable which I would set to a given dimension (usually using a micrometer). I certainly would not use machine jacks.

Enjoy, DoN.

Reply to
DoN. Nichols

Hello DoN. Nichols,

Thanks!!! _ I was pretty sure the string went through the bolt (as opposed to the nut) but wanted to be sure... Why do I want the webpage? - I like to give credit for where I borrow ideas

- simple as that. When I write up this project, I'd like to be able to point out this little tip and say where I got it from.. right now I can say it came courtesy of the folks at RCM, but it'd be nice to say where else it came from.

The machine jacks will be used to set a sine bar because until I have sets of guage blocks, etc, machine jacks set to a vernier caliper will be better than nothing.

Thanks, Des

Reply to
des bromilow

Normally -- you don't want the string all the way through. It is too likely to fall out the other side. I would probably use a minimum of three or four times the depth of the threads for larger bolts, and if there is a lot of load on the bolt, you want it to engage near the outer side of the nut so you don't weaken the bolt too much.

O.K.

Well ... *I* got it from screws illustrated in the PIC catalog (they make precision gears and such) and seeing some used in aircraft style construction (my employer was making flight simulators).

I passed it on in the newsgroup.

Others probably have as well.

But it seems to be semi common practice in certain fields. (There were also aircraft anti-vibration nuts with a nylon washer captive in the top of the nut under a rolled lip.)

Hmm ... Chinese gauge block sets are cheap enough. Look at eBay auction # 180546181693 ($40.00 buy-it-now for a 36-piece set, which should be sufficient.)

The Chinese sets (which this may or may not be) are supposed to be accurate within 50 u" (micro-inches -- 0.000050"). I would not use my good B&S set of "Jo" blocks under sine bars, except perhaps for precise gauging setups, not for machine setups.

A space block set may do just as well -- depending on how precise you are trying to be.

At the moment, the search string which has the least clutter on eBay for this is:

gauge block set* -hoses -manifold -"sight glass"

the last three '-' entires are to keep air conditioning manifolds out of the search.

If you want a cheaper way to go -- to continue transferring settings from calipers to the sine bar -- do another eBay search for:

adjustable parallels

Which can be adjusted to various sizes within their range, and at least will have contact surfaces like a gauge block -- if not as smooth. A machinist's jack does not have the flat level surface which a sine bar expects to rest upon.

Look carefully at the photos in auction # 300457608090

You will see that each parallel is split in two along a diagonal line, (and are held together by a dovetail between the two, not visible from the plain view but marginally visible by the angled view at the ends.

Each has a screw (or sometimes two, depending on size) to lock it as the selected setting.

While these are made for transferring measurements, you still have a loss of accuracy with every transfer.

And you at least want a micrometer to set them to, not a vernier caliper if you want accuracy.

Enjoy, DoN.

Reply to
DoN. Nichols

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.