McMaster hook latches

Oct 24, 2006 11 Replies

Now that I need to move a few engines, I just bought a hook for my shop crane.



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I did not like the old hook for three reasons:


- I wanted a swivel hook to turn the load the way I want



- It was kind of small and could not safely hold two chains from two sides of the load



- Its latch was very wimpy and is now broken.



My question is this. My new hook looks very nice, especially after I spray painted it, and turns very easily. That's good. But it does not have a latch. What I would like changed, though, is to add a latch to it for extra safety.



McMaster has latches like item 3544T11. Clamp-On Spring Latch Zinc-Plated Steel, 9/16" - 5/8" Hook Neck Diameter. Has anyone seen them, are they just as wimpy as the Harbor Freight latch, or are they made any better?



Do you think that a latch like that can substantially increase safety, or am I wasting my time?



thanks



i

I wouldn't bother. The load will only come off the hook when the lifting chain is slack. This might happen when you lower the load to the ground, in which case it doesn't matter, or when you do something exceptionally stupid like run into the suspended load with a truck. On the whole, if you are sensible and careful, I'd say it's very unlikely to happen.

My chain hoist doesn't have latches and I don't plan to fit any.

Best wishes,

Chris

It only takes one time that you wish you had one to make it worthwhile. I've seen more than once a snatch chain balancing on the tip of a hook.

Wes S

Great looking hook iggy. From the photo it looks to be about 10" to

12" long (is that close?) which should give you plenty of room in the hook for any straps, cables or chains you'll need to rig. Too small a hook size can create a situation hard on latches. With normal care and the light weight of your rigging any latch should be adequate.

I'd say, for someone doing most of this work by themself, this would be a very good idea especially on taller cabinets (etc.) where you may not be able to see the hook and operate the lift at the same time and, more importantly, where the angle of the straps, cables or chains is very obtuse.

dennis in nca

The only time you need a latch..is if the load is bouncing. On an engine hoist..if the load is bouncing..you got MUCH bigger issues than a latch.

Gunner

Rule #35 "That which does not kill you, has made a huge tactical error"

The light duty stamped steel latches are designed to keep the load chain(s) from falling off when things are slack. If you put a load on it (think two load chains heading off at 120 degree angle to each other), you will likely just bend the latch out of the way. It MIGHT be the little extra you need to keep a load under control, but it certainly is not a positive method. I have one on one of my comealongs, not on the other. The latch reduces the capacity, I find it more annoying than useful.

If you really are worried about it, only thing is to use 'D' shackles (McMaster 3560T46 for a sample) or the special locking hooks that McMaster sells. P/N 3946T81 for example. be sure you are sitting down when you get to the price on those.

Slight change of subject: I have a pair of matched cha> Now that I need to move a few engines, I just bought a hook for my > shop crane.

I think that it is a little below 10". I repainted in in grey color using a spray farm equipment paint. Also applied general purpose grease to its moving parts so that they do not rust. It is very easy to turn, though I have not tried to turn it under load, likely I will try tomorrow.

Got it...

Thank you Rigger....

i

I just measured it. It has a length of 7" exactly, throat of 1 1/8", and thickness of neck of 1/2".

i

That's a beauty. With a little care it'll be in use a 100 years from now.

dennis in nca

p.s. A good point was made by someone earlier which touched on the proper uses of a latch. It's generally not a good idea to let the latch take any part of the load. You'll get away with it on light weight items but there just could be that one time where it won't hold. The proper procedure is (if you must raise the hook but can not see it) to first take a very light load, inspect the hook and, when satisfied, lift the load. But, what the heck, you probably do it that way anyway.

Dennis, thank you. Any idea what is that safe working load on this hook? It has number 4 embossed on its neck, does it mean 4 tons or what? What would you say about a 1/2" neck diameter hook, what would be safe to lift with it? I am sure that, as a rigger, you would be able to say something conservative (and I know it will be just a wild guess and will be unlikely to lift over 1,000 obs with it).

thanks

i

Hi i. The number 4 on any hooks I'm familiar with would indeed stand for 4 tons. This might be different on say, a hook produced in a country using the metric system (or other system?); there's a lot I don't know.

stress fractures, repairs, etc., which I hope you have done?), I might still hesitate to use it for it's rated capacity as I prefer to know the lineage of the rigging I use (was this one made in China?). Present legitimate manufacturers underrate their equipment by a comfortable margin (which you'll be doing) but I'm unaware if all foriegn manufacturers do so.

One thing: It's been years since I moved machinery as a profession and therefor don't hear the scuttlebutt about the latest equipment so I, as you, use common sense, experience and Google.

dennis in nca.

Thanks. I will definitely not lift anything beyond 1,000-1,200 lbs with this crane, anyway. I will spend tonight unloading some fun equipment.

i

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