Safe procedures for hoisting an engine

Take a look at these two pictures:

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They depict an engine similar to what I tested last weekend.

The previous one was in a sealed crate that was easy to hoist. This one, though, is in a half broken crate that is not, it seems, as safe to lift with slings. (not as favorable location of the ribs on the bottom). What would be a safe procedure for lifting it out from a truck. It does NOT have a lifting eye (unlike one of the two Onan DJCs that is no problem at all). Its mounting points are below the center of gravity. Rigger, Steve, others, any ideas, what can I do to stay safe and to get it out of the pickup safely with a shop crane. Thank you!

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Reply to
Ignoramus11590
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Is there not a threaded bolt hole on top that could accept a lifting eye?

Reply to
Richard J Kinch

I do not think so, though I will check. I think that it is a 4 cylinder inline engine and on top there is the engine head.

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Reply to
Ignoramus11590

Mebbe weld a cupla big-assed U-bolt type deals around the engine, and lift from that. Or just use threaded rods and coupling nuts, erector-set style, w/ eyebolts you can eventually hook to. Not sure, w/ coupling nuts, how you would get a 90, mebbe just weld two at

90 deg, etc. 1/2" or 5/8" threaded rod should do.
Reply to
Proctologically Violated©®

Don't have an answer, really. Can you unbolt something on top and bolt a lifting bracket on?

But here's another question. What is the thing in the background of the #3 picture? A crash-test dummy, maybe?

Reply to
xray

If not, then you can sling around underneath, and also tie or clamp the sling waist firmly to the exhaust manifold such that the sling can still slip through up and down. The underneath takes the weight, and the tie/clamp takes the side-to-side. Thus you have a secure and stable attachment well above the center of gravity, which is what you want.

If you're using an engine hoist, consider adding outriggers to the legs, as simple as 10' Superstrut from Home Depot held on with C-clamps. This will stiffen the hoist a little, and afford some tip-over protection, while still letting you roll.

Reply to
Richard J Kinch

On Wed, 25 Oct 2006 03:52:23 +0000 (UTC), with neither quill nor qualm, Ignoramus11590 quickly quoth:

Most gas engine heads have threaded holes front and rear which could accept lifting plates. Diesel heads are beefy enough to have them, too, so take a look. Make your own plates from 1/4" steel plate, Ig.

Reply to
Larry Jaques

--snip

Oh, you have pics!

I wonder what that radiator stiffener bracket is bolted to...c/g looks about right, if just a bit forward. Drill/blow a hole in the top and lift! Or find holes on the sides of the block which could accept lifting brackets/plates.

Reply to
Larry Jaques

Can you get slings under it?

GWE

Reply to
Grant Erwin

I may be able to bolt a bracket to the side.

I think that it is a mannequin that they use for showing military clothing...

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Reply to
Ignoramus22056

OK, will look tonight.

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Reply to
Ignoramus22056

I can, but it would be unstable, wouldn't it?

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Reply to
Ignoramus22056

Use a loop sling. Run it around and thru the loop. That will give support at the bottom and stabilty from lifting above the CG. A heavy nylon sling will be easier on it than a chain.

Bob

Reply to
rleonard

Bob, that's it! That's how I will do it. I have two 1 ton rated slings like that.

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Reply to
Ignoramus22056

Lifting eyes at the front and back of the head, or as high up on the sides of the block as you can find holes. Two short chunks of stout chain.

And an 'engine leveler' lifting beam so you can set the balance - since the radiator is still attached to the block the CG is going to be closer to the radiator end of the head.

Get the radiator off and it will be easier, but then parts that have been dismantled will get lost. Six of one, half a dozen...

-->--

Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman

Find a bolt hole somewhere around the head where a bracket mounts for an engine accessory such as an alternator. Ought to be around a 3/8 bolt hole. Two of those and some chain can safely lift the front of the engine. The "wings" coming out of the sides of the bell housing are motor mounts, which are more than strong enough to hold up the rear. Hell, if you don't mind tipping it over, just snatch it form the rear motor mounts. They'll hold it up without a problem. Might leak a bit (or a bunch) of fluid, though.

Reply to
B.B.

If you were lifting it with a forklift, you'd put two horizontal forks under it and lift. Lifting it with two slings isn't much different. Can it roll? Theoretically yes, but it won't. Rolling would involve going to a higher potential energy, so it should just lift straight up. That's certainly what I'd do.

GWE

Reply to
Grant Erwin

Indeed. Good nylon slings with loops on the ends (often called lanyards) and D shackes are requirements to have on hand if one is moving heavy equipment of odd shapes and sizes.

Gunner

Rule #35 "That which does not kill you, has made a huge tactical error"

Reply to
Gunner

Good. Just be sure that when slinging..you pay attention to things that may be crushed or bent by the sling as it tightens up.

Gunner

Rule #35 "That which does not kill you, has made a huge tactical error"

Reply to
Gunner

Definitely. Thanks...

An unrelated note... I want to make a webpage "looking at a real diesel engine". It would show the components, how they work etc, of a real diesel, not like a Wikipedia page with schematic.

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Reply to
Ignoramus22056

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