I am comparing two sawzalls: DeWALT-DW307-Reciprocating-Saw and Bosch RS20-XC. The reason for this is to pick which one to get rid of. I have this old Dewalt and very cheaply bought a new Bosch ($50).
DeWALT DW307 can be seen here:
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shows as a forsale page, but it is not for sale)
Bosch RS20-XC can be seen here:
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Anyway, Amazon lists numerous complaints about the strong vibration and recoil of the Bosch reciprocating saw.
My main question is, are these complaints even well founded, or is the recoil inherent in a very powerful reciprocating saw?
Could anyone share first impressions from the Bosch, does it really deserve the bad rap that it received?
(it shows as a forsale page, but it is not for sale)
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I haven't used either of those two units, but the Milwaukee Super Sawzall (which I have) has an internal counterbalance weight to help counter vibration. I think the bottom end models may not have this feature. You might check to see if either of the units you have has a counterbalance. Other important features are tool free blade changes and shoe depth adjustments. I know PC has that funky swivelable head, but in many years with the regular super sawzall I've run into few if any tasks where that feature would be useful.
I have used a DeWalt and a Ryobi. The Ryobi was better at shaking a can of paint. If one has more than 1 complaint of having a lot of vibration/shake/or recoil I'd say take a pass on it, regardless of brand.
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(it shows as a forsale page, but it is not for sale)
You already own the saw. Why would you ask what others think about its recoil when all you have to do is plug it in and find out for yourself? Why the hell would you care?
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote: (clip) Keep the sole plate tight to the work, and it won't happen, unless you
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ If the sole plate is allowed to have zero pressure or less against the work, the saw will DANCE. Saws which have an internal counter weight run more smoothly under all circumstances. My first really good saber-saw was a Bosch, and I was really impressed at how much easier it was to follow a line. You don't have to lean on the saw to keep it steady.
"Leo Lichtman" fired this volley in news:o3tFk.59448$ snipped-for-privacy@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net:
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That's what I said, Leo! You don't have to PUSH, just keep the shoe down snug, and the saw will track like it should. It cuts on the pull. Only inertia of the ram and drag in the cut will make it push away from the work.
I've personally never had trouble with any recip keeping it steady in the cut -- not even on the dirt-cheap battery run ones.
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote: That's what I said, Leo! You don't have to PUSH, just keep the shoe
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ So, why did I post what I did? Quoting from your post, "Keep the sole plate tight to the work, and it won't happen," I felt that it was not completely clear that the rotating counter weight makes this a lot easier. It won't matter much on a Saws-all, doing demolition, but when you're doing delicate work with a saber saw, a light touch makes it easier to control the cut.
I don't think we disagree, except slightly on emphasis :-)
I've got the 3/4" stroke one. Good for demolition. The long stroke would be great if you can keep all the blade in the cut. I wish they made a variable stroke model.
Given that the case, the blades and the saw itself were covered with sheetrock dust, and the other items in the yard sale were sheetrock related, mixing trays etc etc..I assumed that the saw hadnt seen much rough duty..cutting holes in sheetrock seldom taxes a decent hand tool.
Ive put it up on the RoundTuit shelf, and will open it up on a rainy day this winter and see if I can get replacement parts from DeWalt.
Today, Im playing with my (new to me) Millermatic 35..AND the beautiful and minty Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC welders...
All scores bartered for a bit of labor and expertise in machine tool repair...and maybe $45 in gas money
Anyone heard of a Tregaskiss Tough-Gun? Its on the Millermatic 35.
Damn that welder has a small main transformer though.....
Gunner
"Obama, raises taxes and kills babies. Sarah Palin - raises babies and kills taxes." Pyotr Flipivich
I've been beating on the DeWalt 18V cordless recip saw (first gen) for years, no problem.
(Well, except for loaning it to a cow-orker and getting it back missing the bent-T 5/16 hex key, not noticed till next use...)
Just had to plunge cut a 2X4 at a 45-degree angle because the drywall hole wasn't big enough for the 5-1/4" DeWalt circ saw to cut it out, just enough to get a starter slot at the right spot - bent a
45 degree twist in a 6" 4/8T blade and had at it. The 4-gang box dropped right in the notch.
It is possible, I've done it many times.
The hard part is identification, since they don't like handing out the exploded diagrams. And since they shut down the Woodland Hills DeWalt/B&D repair depot where I could just walk in and look it up on their computer, point and say "Order two of them, one of this..."
Now the closest depot is in North Orange County somewhere.
My turn - You Suck! ;-)
If you see anything in another medium sized engine-drive go by, let me know. My brother came to me with a "Great Deal!" on portable generators that turned out to be the old scam - "We're selling these used for cheap because we put fuel in them and ran them a few hours as demos, and we can't ship them back to the factory with fuel in them."
Typical Chinese knockoffs that you will never get parts for in a year or two - not without making them yourself. Disposable power equipment.
Ive a 3000 watt that has Honda stickers all over it. Unfortunately the model number sticker is for a big Honda genset in a soundproof housing...after I took it in trade.
Its been working ok, hundred hours or so on it, but...it aint a Honda, though its a clone.
Gunner
"Obama, raises taxes and kills babies. Sarah Palin - raises babies and kills taxes." Pyotr Flipivich
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