Mechanic-ing The Farm Shop Goose Neck Trailer

I picked up a goose neck trailer a while back. I was told it was made by a farm shop in Ca, and the SN/ID is a CA issued number.

One axle has brake. (No I didn't make a typo.) It has only one brake. The other side has a standard spindle and hub. Atleast it has a flange for mounting the shoe back plate. The other axle has no accommodation for brakes at all.

I haven't really worried about it for local towing and relatively short grades, but I'll be needing to haul a 3/4 to truck some 350 miles. Part of it has some extended downhill grades. My truck is a 3/4 ton, 4x4, wide tires, crew cab, anti-lock brakes. It stops really well, and it will hold that trailer under normal conditions. Even with a load. I've used it to haul my farm tractor (6800lbs give or take) over Telegraph Pass with no issues. If I put the truck in tow haul mode it even seems to engine brake on the grades despite having an automatic. I have to say I am modestly impressed with that Allison transmission. ASnyway, that's on familiar roads, in good conditions, with no surprises. Traveling across the state through the mountains is another story. I'd rather have some brakes on the trailer.

So... I decided to see what it would take to get a brake on the other side, and get them wired up. I pulled the wheel and saw the drum was labeled Hadco 412. I couldn't find that part anywhere. Not even on the Hadco website. I went ahead and pulled the drum hub, to check the bearings and see if I could figure it out from there and just install a new pair.

The eTrailer website identified the bearings as being from a 5200lb axle. Great. I only licensed the trailer for 10K anyway. I can't find a direct replacement for that weight axle, drum brake hub, and bolt pattern. 1.5 inch inner bearing ID. 0.938. 12x2 brake drum. (Pads were much narrower at around 1-5/8). 5200lb axle (most likely)... and 5 on 5-1/2 bolt pattern. I can't find a drop in replacement.

I could go to a 6 on 5-1/2 hub, but for sanity sake I'd need to change the idle axle hubs to match, and then buy or scrounge 5 new (to me) rims (spare) for the trailer. That starts to push up the cost of the job.

I was already planning to buy five new load range E tires, but they aren't as expensive as I thought they would be. Still this is turning into a pretty steep hill to climb.

Wish me luck.

Oh, yeah. There is another option. Out back of the shop I have an old travel trailer I was thinking about scavenging out anyway. Pull the toilet and one of the holding tanks for another travel trailer. It has two axles that look very similar, except it has a six lug bolt pattern. The tires are garbage, but at least it has 4 rims. Doing a complete dual axle swap sounds like a lot more work than I signed up for, but its an option. Both axles have all electric brakes. The cost might be a little hardware, 4 new seals (I would definitely repack those bearings), a tub of grease, and probably two days of my time. Two days I do not really have.

Nothing is ever easy.

Reply to
Bob La Londe
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Seems to be really old... some discussion here in an Airstream Forum:

"I recently went through a simular issue with what you are doing with your brakes. There is an available solution to go brand new backing plates; They are Hays / AL-KO 12"x2" Part numbers 185100 and 185150 ETrailer.com sells them RedNeck Trailer Supply sells them They are specifically designed to work with the zero offset drums that we have on our vintage travel trailers. You get brand new "guts" that work great while allowing us to keep the vintage look of our original drums."

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Maybe give you some more info, help with a decisionšŸ¤·

Reply to
Leon Fisk

That was a really good lead. Looks like eTrailer might have had those parts, but not anymore. They dominate search results, but it always goes to a different product. It also looks like AL-KO no longer sells brakes.

Reply to
Bob La Londe

Yeah, nothing from eTrailer. I just caught a sales/support person online and instead of answering my question about the drum/hub they tried to sell me the brake assembly. Finally they admitted they couldn't help with the hard part when pressed.

Its looking like stealing the axles from the other trailer may be the best option.

Easier maybe might be to just buy new axles, but I can't find a 5200lb drop axle assembly with brakes. Even if I settled for the deck being 4 inches higher (not desired for hauling vehicles) they are almost a grand per axle. 2 days vs $2000...

The thing that makes the search harder is eTrailer has spent a lot of money on search engine optimization. They absolutely DOMINATE the search results, but many of the links go to totally different products when you click on them.

Reply to
Bob La Londe

It gets harder... The trailer is slightly narrow than I thought, and the spring centers are a lot narrower than I thought. There is no stock axle available for the application. Even if I buy new axles I have to modify them.

Reply to
Bob La Londe
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Can you buy just a stub that would fit in the end of the axle tube? I don't think this one is heavy enough but illustrates what I was thinking of:

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Reply to
Leon Fisk

I have to look at the axle again. Replacing the spindle did occur to me. Its a 4" drop axle, and I keep forgetting to look exactly how the drop is made.

Reply to
Bob La Londe

I said screw it and ordered some 6K drop axles as close as I could find to length with "loose" (weld on yourself) spring seats. The suggested spring center for that axle is an inch wider than my spring centers, but I can't imagine it will hurt anything if I weld them on 1/2 inch closer together.

One of the old axles will be going under a utility bed (plus frame) to make it into a utility trailer.

The axles under the travel trailer may get salvaged out some day, but not soon. I don't have the time to deal with that to right now.

Reply to
Bob La Londe
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Decisions like that usually sit-better-with-me if I've had time to do some research and find the alternatives aren't so good. You'll feel better about using it once done knowing what's underneath and parts are currently availablešŸ™‚

Reply to
Leon Fisk

I was just looking at the one brake hub I still had, and its broken. Looks like about 3/4 of the way around in front of the hub. It also looks like it is not one piece like a lot of the trailer brake hubs. It looks like there is a joint, and I may be able to unbolt it from the hub so I can continue to use the hub without it for a plane axle application. The bearings and seals (substitutes) are still available, but that's about it.

I went ahead and ordered new seals for both old axles so I can repack the bearings and use them on other projects. One is to convert an old utility bed into a utility trailer. Not that I need it, but sometimes I help out friends, and it would be nice to not have to fill my truck up with tools and unload everything when I do. One of those axles will be great for that. Then just leave duplicate tools in that, and keep it locked up.

Reply to
Bob La Londe

I'm not sure if this is genius or stupid. The lug bolts are pressed through the drum, and then through the hub. Basically it is pinning them together. It makes them functionally like the more modern one piece drum-hubs used on utility trailers. It looks like one of the cracks may have originated in the lug bolt hole, but I won't know for sure until I get them out.

I really shouldn't be wasting time messing with it, but my curiosity sent me down the rabbit hole...

... the drum is now removed, but the lugs are still stuck in place. Amazing what you can do with a hammer and a cold chisel. I haven't tried heat yet. The old school lug nut and a hammer did nothing. Figured I'd circle all the lugs with Kroil over night and see if that helps. Then probably over to the 20 ton press tomorrow.

Reply to
Bob La Londe

... the drum is now removed, but the lugs are still stuck in place. Amazing what you can do with a hammer and a cold chisel. I haven't tried heat yet. The old school lug nut and a hammer did nothing. Figured I'd circle all the lugs with Kroil over night and see if that helps. Then probably over to the 20 ton press tomorrow. Bob La Londe

--------------------- IIRC the hub needs to be supported closely around the head of the lug, with pipe etc, or it will absorb hammer energy by flexing.

Reply to
Jim Wilkins
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That would be really nice. I too thought of something like that years ago when I was still helping people with stuff often enough. Hated rounding up my tools (and forgetting some) to work on something elsewhere and then having to un-round them when done...

Reply to
Leon Fisk

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