Mig Welders

I have almost that same Century unit in a 110 model (Mine is a 135) Does VERY good sheet metal welds down to 24-26 gauge. It has been used a LOT and other than replacing the gun once because it got a bit HOT (guy was welding with it and caught the carpet padding in the car on fire!!) it has been a good machine.

My bigger units get used when the material is unique, like the high strength alloys used in some autos today. Those you have to pay attention to if you don't want a major failure. That is when having the optional spot and stitch welding controls helps out.

Get yourself a couple copper spoons as well. They can be used on thin steel to keep from burning through.

Reply to
Steve W.
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This idea came from a book IIRC, perhaps Forney welding manual. Their idea was that CO2 was considerably cheaper than Argon and a shop could save money by mixing their own. I like the idea that I would have all the gasses I need for my purposes, MIG and TIG, in general, Argon, CO2, and mix.

RogerN

Reply to
RogerN

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Thanks, I found a Power Mig 140C but all the SP's I saw were "T" models.

I got power to my Century and burnt some flux core rod on some scrap iron.

I went by a welding supply and picked up an 80 CuFt tank of mix, I have a new 2lb spool of .023 wire.

I plan to cut up some sheet metal and practice welding with my Century, then see if the local Lincoln dealers has a demonstrator so I can compare.

I guess if I would ultimately like is a 120V mig for auto body and light work, and a 230V 200+ amp for heavier welding and aluminum with a spool gun.

RogerN

Reply to
RogerN

Thanks, it's encouraging to hear my welder may be sufficient for the auto body welding. I'll have to get some sheet metal to cut up and practice welding on.

RogerN

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RogerN

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Try some .030" wire, too.

And no, for heavy welding, you use 7018.

Steve

visit my blog at

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Reply to
Steve B

"RogerN" wrote

Remember that there can be differences between cars and years. Keep a notebook, and you'll have fewer burnthroughs when you are getting dialed in. Practice on what you are going to weld. Don't go get sheet metal if you're going to weld on cars. Go get some car pieces.

Steve

visit my blog at

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Reply to
Steve B

Actually I plan to weld some sheet metal to car pieces so the body filler has a solid foundation. I would like to be able to form sheet metal but there seems to be no end of money you can spend on this, shrinker, stretcher, plannishing hammer, English wheels, shot bags, hammers....

Does the junk yards sell car sheet metal cheap? Maybe a damaged panel or something?

I found some rust repair panels for my truck but I don't want to use $40 fender flares for practice scrap. I guess after fitting them I would have some scrap cut out of my truck body that I could practice on.

RogerN

Reply to
RogerN

Just remember that most of the sheet metal you will find, is heavily galvanized and has to be cleaned of it before welding...

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that, in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid. Gunner Asch

Reply to
Gunner Asch

Rust work sometimes entails welding in available sheet metal to an autobody skin. I used up an entire water heater skin that way, no single patch being more than a few square inches.

Reply to
Don Foreman

"RogerN" wrote

I'd say that they would sell you a bunch of it for $20, and then laugh at you as you drove away. You might even get some of those smaller pieces from a shredder, making it easier. But no, don't go buy a good door and cut it up.

Put on your scrounge hat, man!

I like that American Pickers program, but I think there is a need for "Dumpster Divers" or "American Scroungers" or "Yard Sale Junkies".

Steve

visit my blog at

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Reply to
Steve B

Patch panels and complete panels for a LOT of vehicles.

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Reply to
Steve W.

"Steve W." wrote

Wow. That makes it almost TOO easy, but man, the finished job would be great. Particularly for cancerous floor pans.

Steve

visit my blog at

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Reply to
Steve B

I used a lot of their stuff with good results. But don't forget to check price on OEM panels too. It can be surprising at times. At the time, a hood for a '75 Chevy pickup/blazer/suburban was only slightly more from a GMC dealer (with professional discount) than from Mill Supply including shipping, and the OEM hood actually fit first try.

Reply to
Don Foreman

I found this Eastwood welder that looks like a clone of a Lincoln, they have a video comparing with the Lincoln, kind of looks to me like the Lincoln had better penetration from looking at the back side.

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RogerN

Reply to
RogerN

Its a Lincoln..IE... Lincoln doesnt make a lot of their low end welders..they are made overseas. Shrug

So much for their comparison...lol.

Based on the model..the Eastwood is the same as the Lincoln 140c

I will say that the price of the Eastwood is a hell of a lot better though. $299 vrs $661 (ebay)

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that, in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid. Gunner Asch

Reply to
Gunner Asch

I wasn't sure if it was a Lincoln by another name or a Lincoln clone. I thought the continuous voltage adjustment sounded good. I saw a comparison between the Lincoln and Miller (by Lincoln) and they showed a higher quality wire drive motor, etc. I wonder if the Eastwood is the same or just a look alike? If it's the same quality as the actual Lincoln I would be interested just for the convenience of a 120V welder versus my 240V Century welder.

I'm all ready to start practice welding this weekend if weather permits.

RogerN

Reply to
RogerN

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