Moving a bridgeport

Gentlemen,

Early next week I will depart on a 580 mile odyssey to fetch home my new bridgeport mill. Thanks to Iggy (Thanks, Iggy!!!) I have a copy of a bridgeport operation and maintenance manual.

The manual contains some illustrations and guidance on UNPACKING a mill. I get the impression that this manual was printed for british consumption. First, it mentions a Whitworth 3/4" J hook that screws into the top of the head to be used as a lifting lug. Second, the manual uses the word "whilst" and other distinctly british spellings. But the machines were indeed manufactured in Bridgeport, Connecticut... yes?

I have not yet resolved how to get the machine home. Plan A involves me towing an 18' pintle hitch trailer behind our old 1 ton Ford diesel van. The trailer is purpose built for moving backhoes. It is a very stout trailer. With a backhoe on it, the trailer would be too heavy for the Ford. But with a 2200 mill and 800 pound welder the gross weight will be about 8,000 lbs, which I consider well within the capacity of the 1 ton van. The van has fully steel belted, commercial duty tires on it. The trailer has tandem axles and dual wheels all around.

I recently bought the trailer and we re-wired it. This will be our first major trip with it. Since it is an older trailer (1989?) this afternoon I took it to Gary's, my tractor mechanic's, house for him to inspect, service, and/or repair, as needed. Today Gary rebuilt the tilt cylinders in my Case forklift which were hemorrhaging hydraulic fluid. In short order he had the kits in, a hydraulic oil change, and the forklift working like a champ. It is a Case 584CK. It will lift

4,000 pounds 22 feet into the air. This means I could drop the mill through the roof if I chose to do so... ah, the powah!!!

By Monday afternoon, Gary will make a pronouncement as to whether the trailer is seaworthy. If so, I will depart Monday night or Tuesday to pick up the mill.

If Gary finds any serious problems that can't be fixed within 24 hours I will go to "Plan B". This involves renting a Ryder truck.

Thus, I am confronting two possible scenarios for loading the equipment and returning home with it. If I take the pintle hitch trailer I intend to load the two items squarely over the axles. I will drill holes through the floor of the trailer and bolt the mill down with four 1/2" carriage bolts or something similar. I will even use angle iron "stringers" as needed beneath the trailer to ensure that the mill is tight as a fiddle bow. I will also strap and chain it.

If I take a Ryder truck however, I'm less certain as to how to secure the machine. Those trucks have aluminum boxes with steel stanchions every 4 feet or so. Along the sides, about 36" from the floor, are some 1x4 smooth wooden rails. These do not seem very sturdy to me. Also, I probably will catch grief from drilling holes in the floor of the truck. Also, even though the trucks have tommy lifts, I will still have to roll the machine some 20 feet forward into the cavernous box of the truck.

Is it a viable plan to set the thing down on a pallet jack? I'm not sure the foot print of the mill is even big enough to catch the legs of the jack.

Once I get there, the seller will load me. But then they will wash their hands and close the door.

I have moved things this heavy. But not this "concentrated" and not with this high of a center of gravity.

Therefore, I will welcome the benefit of the experience of those who have been through the drill previously. As always, thanks!

V
Reply to
Vernon
Loading thread data ...

The footprint of a Bridgeport is very small compared to the top heavy nature of the beast. I'd lift it a few inches, get a purpose built skid underneath, and bolt the mill to the skid. Think 4x4's for the skid runners and 2x12's as cross pieces. If you build it right you can bolt it down to a trailer, slide it into a truck, or pick it up with a (suitable) forklift.

Lots of previous discussi> Gentlemen,

Reply to
RoyJ

I wouldn't depend on the carriage bolts to do much more than keep the bottom from moving fore or aft. Strap and chain it using four D-hooks on the trailer bed as anchor points so that the top of the mill can't go forward, backward or sideways.

Reply to
ATP*

formatting link

Reply to
Richard J Kinch

I moved one mill in a trailer, for about 25 miles, without bolting it down, however, I tied it down with 2 inch ratcheting tiedowns so that it was incapable of any movement. And I drove very slowly. I may have used four 2" tiedowns. All very tight and re-checked every few miles.

If I was to move it a longer distance, I would do as RoyJ suggests.

i

Reply to
Ignoramus3071

With plan A be sure to check the weight limit of the van license! You could get a pretty high-dollar ticket for being overweight. I believe the towing vehicle license includes the GROSS weight of both the van and any trailer behind it.

You may want to be sure any moving parts are locked into place so they don't move during shipment.

Anti-sway devices?

Be sure the driver is experienced at pulling a loaded trailer.

As far as the Ryder truck is concerned, should the load begin a sudden move the sides would be little protection. Tie the thing so many ways that it's difficult to ever BEGIN moving - then drive very very carefully when approaching intersections and curves.

Perhaps they'll have a Lull or similar "cherry picker" that can set the load forward where you want it. You can probably find something to tie it to to slide it toward the door for the unload. However, you may want to put plywood under it prevent damage to the truck floor.

You may want to FORGET THE RYDER and rent a trailer if yours is not available. It's hard to beat being able to sit the load exactly where you want it and lift it right back up without having to push, pull, drag and scratch the floor!

I know a fellow who brought a large mill to his shop and it weighed about 6000# or better. It was on the right rear corner of a lowboy and though he had two 5000# forklifts neither could lift the load. He approached from the rear and began a lift while I got under his forks from the side. We got it up so someone else could pull the lowboy out from under it. The fun began as we tried to sync our decent rate to the ground. There was no "crash and burn" but it got interesting momentarily.

He found a large slab of metal perhaps 1.5" thick or better and burned a hole in one end. We stuck a chain through that hole and I lightened up on one end and pulled while he pushed from the rear. We dragged it across the lot to the door and then put several short pieces of round stock under it to roll it into position -- no conduit or pipe -- something solid.

Al

=========

Vern> Gentlemen,

Reply to
Al Patrick

whatever you do dont aft load the trailer or you will meet my misfortune. wild uncontrollable swings above about 30 mph.

Stealth Pilot

Reply to
Stealth Pilot

I got my pintle hitch trailer back from my mechanic in fine condition in terms of the lights and brakes. I am going to borrow all of the tires from my dually dodge and put them under the trailer. These are nearly new Michelin commercial truck / trailer tires that are about as good as can be had.

Meanwhile, I am contemplating Roy's suggested purpose built skid idea in the context of a scale drawing of a BP base I downloaded from Iggy's site (Thanks Iggy!)

I am pondering whether to make the skid from wood, steel, or both. Since the dimensions of the mill's base are 36 1/4" (side) x

24" (front and back) I guess I'll build it 36" square. That should stabilize the footprint from side to side. On the heels of figuring this out I guess I also need to give some thought to the welder!

On behalf of myself and the traveling public I thank you all! V

Reply to
Vernon

Reply to
RoyJ
[ ... ]

Personally -- I would make the skid wider than the widest part of the mill -- the table width. I would consider 48" wide to be a minimum, as that is the direction it is going to be trying to tip -- one side or the other.

Good Luck, DoN.

Reply to
DoN. Nichols

I'd second that. Make it somewhat wider than the widest part of the mill in any direction. It'll help prevent tipping as the skid would force the whole weight of the mill to be lifted before it could tip over.

Reply to
Al Patrick

Purpose built skid = good idea

lower knee fully, center table side to side, rotate head upside down, this will lower the center of gravity and allow you to get through doorways easily.

Your trailer or a rented trailer sounds like best idea, use chains/straps on bottom and on top, all 4 ways like a X. bolt mill to skid, bottom straps on skid or direct to mill.

Thank You, Randy

Remove 333 from email address to reply.

Reply to
Randy

Gentlemen. I have taken your fine ideas and put 'em in motion. I'm nearly finished with a 48" x 48" skid that I've made from 4" channel iron and 2" flat bar. It never would have crossed my mind to do this but for your collective advice. I built it a little smaller than the

4' x 6' that Roy recommended in order to be able to get a pallet jack past the center line from front, back, or either side. My Hudson trailer has two pieces of 48" x 48" x 1/4" x diamond plate centered over the tandem axles and welded to the trailer frame. Once the skid is finished I will thru bolt the 4 corners of the skid down through the diamond plate. I will similarly bolt the base of the mill down to the skid. By the time I take off it will look like a spider web on wheels. The doubled X braces are a fine idea, too. Ships use that concept to tie up to docks. We called 'em "springer" lines.

Does anybody know the difference between a f"airy tale" and "a sea story"? Fairy tales start with "Once upon a time..." Sea stories start with "Now this is no shit!"

Thanks. Y'all are awesome!

V
Reply to
Vernon

Gentlemen. We just got home safely with the Bridgeport and a Syncrowave 300 welder. The loaded trailer weighed about 10,000 lbs. The '85 Ford E350 van pulled the loaded trailer very well in terms of the steering and suspension. However, the tired old 6.9L naturally aspirated diesel engine fell flat on her tired old face. A couple of times we found ourselves doing 5 mph going up grades on the interstate out of Springdale, Arkansas. It was truly dicey.

But the bridgeport is home. Long live the bridgeport! Woo hoo! Vernon

Reply to
Vernon

Congratulations on a successful trip. Sorry to hear about the tired old engine, but you had a pretty good load on it and I expect some of those hills were pretty steep.

Al

=====

Vern> Gentlemen. We just got home safely with the Bridgeport and a

Reply to
Al Patrick

Between the Bridgeport, and the Syncrowave, you will be able to do almost anything.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus31261

I envy you - not the hassles of moving the thing, but having the space in your workshop to set it up and use it! - good luck, it would be all my wet dreams come true..

Andrew VK3BFA.

Reply to
vk3bfa

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.