I just purchased a used South Bend Heavy 10 lathe, now I have the
problem of how to get it home. It is located about a 4 hour drive away, so
to save some money I would like to go and get it myself. I have a suv that
can tow a trailer; so I could rent a trailer or rent a small truck. I have a
2 ton engine hoist at my end to unload it and there won't be any problem
getting it loaded at the source. Does anyone have any recommendations for a
type of trailer or truck to rent?
What kind of truck are you going using?
Will it be a rental U drive or a moving company?
Flat bed or box van?
You said you had no lifting devices, often these can be rented. You might
also put them on a small trailer, and bring them to a place where they have
forklifts, Often some guy making $8 an hour will jump at the chance to make
a quick $20 and find a Six Pack on the seat of his pick-up after work.
If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the solvent.
When I purchased my Habegger, I removed the headtstock, bed and tailstock.
I also removed the motor and the drawer for the cabinet. I was able to
horse everything around by myself (down an airway into the basement). While
the Logan is larger, this might be the safest and easiest way under the
circumstances you describe.
Besides, it gives you the opportunity to spruce it up before you reinstall
Also, believe it or not it may be least expensive and safest to ship it via
Amtrak. Crate and skid the parts. I once shipped a 150 lb watch cleaning
machine from Baltimore to Chicago for $28; and it got there the next day.
They even provided the plastic wrap. I also shipped a 100 lb timeclock to
Boston. Both arrived in excellent condition.
You just have to arrange pickup and delivery from the station and Amtrak
will even help with that.
Dewey Clark http://www.historictimekeepers.com
Dismantle into smaller chunks so that two individuals
can carry each chunk easily. I've moved more large
stuff that way.
================================================= please reply to:
JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
You may need a heavy tree limb or beam and a chain fall to raise at least one
end of your machine to load single-handedly. Perhaps some sort of ramp would
work if it is a cabinet-style machine.
You didn't specify whether truck or trailer would be used this time but if the
lathe has cast iron legs and you load it onto a truck you can make short work
of the job by unbolting the headstock-end legs first and just slide the machine
and chip pan onto the truck bed and then remove the other leg set and slide the
remainder on. You can support the motor/countershaft assembly or better yet,
remove that first since the connection is very brittle.
Perhaps a bit off topic, but I was surprised how the harmonics generated by
varying road surfaces can loosen bolts, nuts, etc which aren't "properly"
torqued over the long haul. Almost lost my Cincinnati Toolmaster's vertical
head and the main control panel literally fell off a 15x42 lathe I was hauling
x-country which pulled a bunch of wires out as it went. These are good sized
machines but no matter, I'd make sure any loose accessories are well packed
away and you frequently check your tie-downs or binders and "loosening" heavy
Have a safe trip and watch your back.
I just bought a lathe of similar size. It was delivered 300 miles.
The lathe was moved in the back of a pickup truck. It was positioned
with the head towards the cab and the tail towards the rear.
It was bolted to boards as wide as the truck bed and double nutted.
Other boards were cut to length and positioned between the tailgate
and the cross boards to prevent it from moving backwards.
It was unloaded with a strap around the bed hooked to a hoist.
AFter it was lifted up, the truck was driven out from under it.
It went very smooth... Rocky (rockwell 11x24) is setting in my garage...
On 30 Jul 2003 08:36:34 -0700, too_many firstname.lastname@example.org
Lag bolt it to Skids (4X6s work well) if you can't bolt them on very
far apart then bolt the lathe down to crosspieces about 4 feet wide
then lag bolt them down to the Skids. If you get the skids wide
enough you don't really have to worry about the top heavy problem so
much. Buy, rent, or borrow a car trailer or (less ahndy, but nicer
for moving) horse trailer (they do ride lower, makes for easier
loading). Get several wooden posts of about 4" diameter, they make
good rollers and are large enough to roll over small irregularities.
Have some blocks and planks handy to use as ramps and you can pull the
lathe anywhere with a good come-along and a pile of log chains. It
takes a long time, but you can move about anyting like this if you are
careful and think thring through. Always keep a log chain tied to the
lathe with a few feet of slack when moving it, that will save you from
having any runaways. It is easier than you'd think to be paying
attention to a roller and not notice that the whole thing has started
rolling downhill. :)
If you jack up the back bumper of your vehicle the trailer will teeter
totter into a ramp, kinda, anyway, the back will go down, support it
there with blocks and set your ramps and just winch it on. You can
move it all by yourself, no heavy lifting, and you don't have to
disassemble it. I have a few pictures of me moving a 19" LeBlond
lathe this way on a sidehill an up into a building. You can see them
look under Movingthings01.jpg and on up.
Don't let it intimidate you, remember the egyptians moved big giant
blocks of stone with ropes and wooden levers. With sufficient
mechanical advantage and time you can move anything.
Be extra careful because lathes are way more top heavy than you would think
I found this out the hard way by tipping one in my driveway when a cat. type
roller slipped out. If you even think your two ton hoist is marginal, have a
wrecker take it off the trailer for you. A machine rigger can easily cost
$500.00 where a wrecker does a nice job for around $50.00.
type of trailer or truck to rent?<
A short open trailer would be my suggestion. If you can load the heavy
end toward the rear that is usually best. When you fasten it to
prevent tipping and sliding some of those ratcheting straps might be a
good idea. Then, when you get home, hook-up and make your lift, and
then make sure, by pushing downward on the lathe, that it's not going
to overbalance, and then pull the truck/trailer out and lower the lathe
straight down to the ground.
On the ground you may find you can not move with the hoist. In this
case you should have the machine skidded for moving on rollers (1" OD
pipe would be good). In fact adding a couple of 2X4 cross pieces and a
couple of runners before you load on the trailer would be a good idea,
if possible. Just remember not to skid it too long or wide as this may
prevent your getting in close enough with the hoist and/or finding you
can't set it down because it comes down on the legs of the hoist. When
you get it where it's going to sit you use the hoist to lift and remove
the rollers and skids.
What ever way you do it, tie it down well on the trailer and, when
unloading, make sure everyone stays clear and understands they need to
listen to you. The natural instinct of the average person, if
something starts to tip or otherwise go wrong, is to jump in to "catch"
the item. This is what can get you killed. Be careful.
Heavy end to the rear? I would disagree with this as you want to have a
load on a trailer loaded almost balanced with a slight bias to the front of
the trailer to maintain some weight on the hitch.
You can acheive a little adjustment of the weight by adjusting the carriage.
Be sure to get good straps and binders to secure the lathe to the trailer.
load on a trailer loaded almost balanced with a slight bias to the
the trailer to maintain some weight on the hitch.<
If you'll notice I said "heavy end to the rear" but I did not say
"weight toward the rear of the trailer". The reason for this is
because when unloading a lathe, or some other, longer, off center load
(where the weight is not centered), when picking from the end, you
always want to get the heavy part toward you. That way the long part
doesn't bump against your mast/lifting device. Naturally you'll want
to have some weight on the hitch and if your trailer is extremely short
it MAY be necessary to put the headstock toward the front, although on
this small of a machine, I doubt this will be necessary.
I must apoligize. After working 13 years as a machinery mover and
moving many thousands of machines, I incorrectly take too many things
for granted when talking with others who may have less experience. I
should spend a little more time in description. Mia culpa (which I
think means "my bad"). I should know by now not to ASSume.
Someone should jump in but IIRC the SB HD 10 is about 600 pounds or so???
Bolt it down to a pair of 2x12's about 6 feet long. Or better yet, 4'
2x12 crosswise to a pair of 6' long 4x4's with beveled ends. You can do
this before you load it on your vehicle. Makes securing it much easier
My local rental place has some low bend utility trailers, about $30 a
day. Steel beds, steel sides. Either skid the lathe up using a 2x12 x8'
or hoist it up. Only needs to come up 24" or so. Pickup can handle the
load but very high lift.
Be very careful when hoisting. The center of gravity is right near the
center of the bed. If you sling it below that, it can just flip over.
Adding the skid base helps there.
The other choice is to dissemble it into mangeable pieces. My Logan
10x24 dissembled into motor and drive, legs, tailstock, covers, and the
headstock/compound/bed. Biggest piece was 210 pounds. My Fray mill (900
pounds) comes apart enough so the biggest piece is the base at 400 or so
(and no longer top heavy)
Mike DeAngelis wrote:
This is how my 10L came home, it took a one hour ride in a friend's
home-made race car trailer.
Sobel had spiked it to two 4X4s, with bevelled ends. He forked
it onto the trailer, and when we got home we tilted the trailer up
and gently slid it off onto the ground. From there I disassembled
it into bite-sized chunks and brought it down to my basement
If this IS by any chance a cast-iron pedestal base unit, watch out.
The base is far and away the single heaviest part that cannot
be lightened any further. Any other piece of a 10L can be carried
by one man, or two if it's the bed.
please reply to:
call all the local rental places and get a hydraulic drop deck trailer , the
entire deck will drop to ground level letting you roll the lathe up on it
either on dollies or skates , which you can rent too
I made some dollies for moving my lathe , a 1945 monarch 18x 54 , it worked
really well , email me I will send you some pictures of moving the lathe
On Sun, 13 Nov 2005 11:52:14 -0600, "williamhenry"
Its only a 600-800 lb lathe.......
Much different lathe <G>
"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.
Think of it as having your older brother knock the shit out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner
The drop deck trailer is really nice. I've used them on many
occasions. The local rental place here has a 2,000 capacity trailer
with a manual (crank) lift. The deck appears to be about 1/4" thick so
that's how close to the ground it will go.
Just roll the tool on, crank it up, tie it down and off you go. The
rental is something like $20.00 a day.
Someone suggested bolting the lathe to a couple of 2X's which is what
I always do. I will then run a couple of 4X's in the cross direction
so that I can move it with a pallet jack.
A Johnson bar comes in handy to lift the lathe and slip the 2X's and
4X's underneath. Use a small sledge to position them.
As for the engine hoist, it is certainly strong enough but I find that
the position of the legs on the host is usually a problem. If you can
slip the hoist endwise on the lathe, then that might save you time and
effort but those support legs are often too close for that to work.
10L's are nice and light, maybe 800 lbs total. If you don't mind
disassembling, then you can load the pieces into a regular pickup truck
and off you go- 2 people who don't mind a bit of exercise can do it
easily. The pedestal base is marginally easier in this case since it
doesn't take up as much room as the cabinet. You'll only need assorted
wrenches & screwdrivers, a socket set, some allen wrenches, a couple
buckets for bolts & gears etc, baggies for the little bits- maybe a
camera to help you remember where stuff goes. 10L's come apart very
nicely, nothing magic about it and there are no critical adjustments to
worry about- the headstock has a locating peg and is held in place with
a couple plates that bolt up into it from beneath the ways. The nylon
tie-straps w/ the friction catch are great for tying stuff down once its
loaded. If you do disassemble, take off the headstock & remove the
carriage. Leave the gearbox in place, but do put the leadscrew support
back on once the carriage is off- you really don't want to have that
leadscrew hanging out just inviting something to smash into it. The
feed collar on the backside of the apron has a funky hook shaped key
that will come out once the leadscrew is removed, fetch it and stash it
w/ the other small parts- very easy to lose that!
- if your machine has the pedestal base and you're disassembling, be
very careful when removing the bed. It tends to require a shove to
unseat, and when it comes loose it will try to tumble off the
pedestal- be ready for it.
For loading/unloading the assembled machine, if you can back your
vehicle into a garage or equiv w/ enough vertical clearance, you might
consider putting a 10' 4x4 up on the rafters to distribute the weight,
then hoisting from that- though you should be confident about the state
of the rafters before trying it, and don't skimp by putting a eyebolt up
into 1 rafter, you really need to distribute the weight.... A comealong
works but is annoying with weight on it, a 2 ton or so chain hoist from
harbor fright will do the job a bit more easily. The usual rig is to
lay the nylon towstrap (>= 5000 lb stuff) across the bed up near the
headstock, then bring both ends under and up between the ways and up to
the hook. If the strap is long enough, maybe you'll have to double it
so its not too long. Lift till the lathe starts to shift, then move the
carriage and tailstock around until the whole thing balances, maybe also
shift the strap if needed, then lock down both. Obviously, remove
chucks, cutting tools, toolpost, etc.. If you use a chain hoist, don't
let the chain fall batter the lathe, put a piece of old carpet over it,
or suspend a bucket beneath the hoist and let the slack chain feed in &
out of that. *** Take great care that you and any help DO NOT have any
body parts beneath the machine at any time its up in the air ***
I've done 1500 lb machines this way, but I think thats about the most
I'd care to do with the 4x4 in the rafters trick.
But no matter how you move the machine, do take the back off the apron
at some point and make sure its clean in there. Its supposed to provide
an oil bath for the apron gears but is usually clogged with dirt and
chips and solidified oil. One nice thing about disassembling for the
move is you can clean & check for worn/busted parts as you reassemble.
And be careful!
I second the dissassembly method. I picked up two Logan 11x24 lathes
with cabinet bases and just needed a little help with the bed and
jackshaft cabinet - maybe 150lbs each. If it is like most used lathes
you will want it apart anyway for a good cleaning and maybe some paint.
Assembled, the lathes are 860lbs but I appreciated the reasonable weight
If you can, get familiar with the lathe first - manual or visit a local
machine to learn what to do. Mike gave you a great start. Bring lots of
tools and take your time.
Greg Menke wrote:
first, make a trailer. this is the metalworking forum, right?
800 pounds means pretty much any trailer will work. snowmobile trailer,
landscape trailer, atv trailer, heck even one of those harbor freight
a crow bar will pick up one end. bring some 2x4 chunks and you get the
one end up to pretty much any height you want.
two football players can pick up one end if they are careful, 4 guys
can't really carry it anywhere though.
Like the man said, have a discussion with everyone involved that if it
starts to fall over, stand back and watch. No need to sacrifice body
Polytechforum.com is a website by engineers for engineers. It is not affiliated with any of manufacturers or vendors discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.