that's a classic if it's the one posted here some time ago. those
look like hi$ wheels/tires, the guy obviously was a lunatic or an
rcm'r on a bender. the jogging part is funny, do you suppose?
Most of the F-150s with a standard use a Mazda transmission the 250 and
up don't. Thats the weak point in the drive tran and the truck hauling
capacity. I have a 1996 extra cab 150 with the 5 speed last week I had
about 1500 pounds in the back. Drove fine but I was real easy on my
driving. 6 miles is not to far. Mine has the 300 CI six not the V-6.
Great truck drives nice runs great but won't take the weight like my
past 3/4 ton.
My 2001 GMC 2500HD is a nominal 3/4 ton truck (based on the 2500 series
number), however the GMC manual says that you may haul 4006 pounds in it.
Fuel weight and passenger weight must be included in the 4006 lbs. If I
five 200 pounders in the cab (extended cab) and had the tank full I could
load 2798 pounds in the bed. I think I'd tell the boys in the back seat to
another car and give myself a little leeway, though.
Start with the nameplate GWV ...
Tires are stamped with the load limit, for a 1/2 ton PU probably around 2000
lbs per tire. Inflate to the rated pressure.
Shortbed means the load is mostly centered over the rear axle so take about
40% of the truck empty weight from the tire rating and assume the payload is
entirely supported by the rear axle. That is a second sanity check on the
My 1/2 ton Chev 4WD weighed 4400 lbs with me and 2 full tanks of gas. Tire
rating was 2000 lbs so I figured around 2000 lbs in the bed was safe for
fairly casual highway driving. I hauled way over that many times, never
going over 50 mph. In the case of a yard of gravel (~ 4000 lbs) 30 mph
slowing to a crawl for every bump and pothole.
My 3/4 ton F250 4WD weighs 6600 lbs with me and 2 full tanks. The tire
rating is 3000 lbs ea so I figure 3000 to 3500 lbs for safe highway driving
and I haven't gone far over that for local hauling. Heaviest "known" load
was a full pallet of concrete pavers at 3400 lbs centered over the rear
if you're not sure if you can do it safely, don't
for short hops across town, I have carried over 2000lbs in my 88 gmc 1500
2wd, with passenger car tires.
I wouldn't blink at 1400 lbs for a 6 mile trip at low speed.
Ok, curiosity got the best of me.
The State of Pennsylvania says my "registered gross weight" is 5000lb
Subtract the 4400 the truck weighs with me and fuel, that leaves 600lbs.
the door sticker is no longer legible, so I dug out my factory service
It tells me that according to my VIN#, the GVWR is 5001-6000lbs
If I am to believe the VIN code, I am good for between 600 and 1600 lbs
I have standard car tires on my F-150 shortbed and carried far too
much weight (probably 1200-1600 lbs) in compost home twice. The first
time I hadn't ensured that the tires were up to 35psi and the truck
swayed a lot; it was scary as hell on the freeway back home.
If it were me, I'd probably chance 2 mills at a time, but not 3.
If you have nice 6-ply truck tires you'll have a straighter drive.
Mine are 225R70-15 4-ply steel radials.
If you want, I'll come pick up that straggler. Dunno when it'll get
to your shop, though. ;)
I've seen a couple tons on a pickup. I used to live in SoCal where
entire [insert ethnicity of choice here] families moved at once.
It's doable, but not very safe.
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5 on a trailer would be 3,500 plus another 1000 or 2000 for
the U-haul trailer. Clearly too much.
3 in the bed would be 2,100 lb with much of the weight
towards the rear of the bed. Too much.
Check your GVW - empty weight load rating, like others have
advised and see if it's close to 1,400 lb. You can probably
handle 1,400 lb. Put the mill drills as far forward as you
can and raise your tire pressures to the max listed on the
sidewalls. Shouldn't be a problem for short trips as long as
you don't bottom out the rear suspension and I doubt that
5 is a good number, move one the first trip and see how it
goes. If it feels like you have a lot of reserve capacity,
move two the following trips.
Do you have a good way to get them out when you get to your
destination? I unloaded my Mill/Drill using a ramp and
almost dropped it. Gravity is a bitch.
Haven't seen anyone bring up the problem of brakes . Overloaded and trying to
stop will blow your mind. You ever hear of brake fade. The last time it
happened to me I had brakes for about 1 second and then nothing.
Don't overload it isn't worth it.
Lots of good advice. I have one more suggestion. Rather than renting
a U-haul, find your local broad selection truck rental place. (Del's
in woodinville WA, for example) They will rent you trucks of a sort I
at least have never seen at U-haul.
Last Sunday I rented a 16ft box cube truck with a full-on
rail-lift-gate. The gate was rated at 3500#. For moving
drill-presses, band saws, and the like, this is an enourmous
advantage. Note that even a slight incline makes moving things
upslope and downslope inside the truck a big hassle, so you still have
to be careful with that.
And, er, why would you want 5 mill-drills? A little more variety in
your machine diet might be a good thing...
firstname.lastname@example.org (BCEONL) wrote in message
WOW! thanks for everyones input,
I was initially wondering if I should call this OT, but figured I am moving
machines. Now I realise that this is a very RCM type of topic :)
Turns out my truck is rated at 2080 lbs payload capacity but after careful
consideration I opted to rent a 14' truck from UHaul. I am paying 19.95 for
the day with 79 cents a mile, since it is only going to be about 15 miles
round trip the total cost will be around $35. This gets me a loading ramp,
enclosed cargo area and the ability to do it in one trip. I am still
wondering if it was the best way to go, but I am certain is the safest way.
I have a cherry picker and a hydraulic elevating table as well as plenty of
dollies to help with unloading. I suspect I will use a standard moving dolly
and wheel them down the supplied uhaul ramp. I hope it can support 700lbs.
Another benefit is I will go ahead and use it to move my shear and
worktables to my new shop which is 1 mile from my home. My wife is also
seeing how maybe I do need to buy a 5 ton flatbed truck :)
Thank you for all your advice,
I second that. I put a 10' box on a new Dodge diesel cab & chassis, then
spent three days finding someone to insure it as a tow vehicle for our
travel trailer. No problem at all getting insurance if you don't mind
spending $3,000 a year for something you drive perhaps three thousand miles
per year. We finally found insurance reasonably, but I got close to
selling the truck before we did. Regardless of your intended use, the
insurance industry wants to group you with the big boys when you use big boy
My honest opinion is the ramp holding is the least of your worries. Have
you ever tried to hold back that much weight on a hand truck or any type
wheeled device? Gravity becomes the enemy in a hurry. If you intend
to go down any kind of incline, I'd strongly suggest you do it with some
type of mechanical device to keep control. Getting to the bottom won't be
difficult, but doing it under controlled conditions, by hand, is likely to
be the surprise of your life. I think I'd recommend the use of a
come-along to let it down slowly.
At 6 miles, the transporting is not really the challenge - you could
make 5 trips if you had to. The real challenge is the loading and
unloading. The vehicle bed _height_ is the most important factor here.
If you could use a small trailer with a bed say 16" high it would be a
_lot_ easier than truck bed 42"(?) high. Vehicle trailers are pretty
low to the ground.
Whoa - 700lbs (plus your weight) on a, what, 10' aluminum ramp?! I
dunno - it could be expensive if you break the ramp and dump the machine
and break a leg or two!
I recently moved three full size Equipto modular cabinet
from Gary Indiana to Metro Detroit in a F150. These items
are around 600 lbs each. I estimate I had close to 1800 lbs
in the back of that truck and it handled it very well.
My biggest concern wasn't the truck, it was the tires. As
I started out under load I stopped on occastion to monitor
tire temperature. Tires and truck pulled through like a champ.
Unless you modified your tires from OEM, there is next to
no chance you will rub the tires on your fenders. It was
mentioned here, I don't know where that information came
from, but these trucks are not designed that way. Even with
no jounce bumpers, you should have tire clearance.
Nobody has mentioned it yet but it is also very critical is
where the weight is placed in the bed. You can definitely
move two mill/drills at once. Keep the weight as close to
the cab as possible to distribute the weight as evenly on all
four wheels. The biggest concern is too much weight behind
the rear axle. This will unload the front axle putting that
extra load on the rear axle. It also creates a vehicle that
doesn't steer very well if extreme. Also when you stop, this
is where the weight will want to go anyway. You can decelerate
much faster than you can accelerate.
Since you aren't going very far and can take it easy on surface
streets, I say you don't have much to worry about. Plan each
step and have a backup plan in case semething doesn't go as planned.
You should know all about overloading machinery if I understand your handle
to mean you put a V8 in a TR4! Is it a Rover V8 or did you put a big
American iron thing in there? I had a TR4 and while it was a neat car, it
was incredibly flexible. It would be pretty scary with more weight and a
lot of power. What diff and gearbox did you use?
Keep in mind, I'm not casting aspersions on your sanity. My daily driver is
a '93 Volvo 940 wagon with a 400HP Ford 347 and Tremec.
BTW, I agree with the folks that said that you're more likely to overload
your tires and rear end then anything else. I'd go one at a time or rent a
63 TR4, 63 Buick 3.5 liter HO rated for 215hp 215CI. Same basic engine as
Rover. The aluminum V8 weighs 40lbs less then the stock 4 banger. She is
still a work in progress and I been thinking of trying a turbo Mazda or a
turbo ford 2.3 liter later after I play with this some.
Rear end is a live axle and I am working on a disc rear with a spicer
pumpkin. Transmission is a Saginaw 4 speed, but am going to swap out for a 5
The car has become a test bed for ideas, used to just be my sports car for
tooling around town. Your brick (Volvo wagon) sounds very cool. I love
station wagons and have looked at some of the conversions done on Volvos. I
have always liked the Volvo 1800 sport wagon, that would be sweet with a
Clearly the aluminum Buick/Rover V8 is the one to install if you want the V8
sound and some more power. The only problem with them in the States is
getting performance or even decent rebuild parts. A turbo motor could make
the car very fast, but then you've got the flexy chassis to consider. If
you stick with the V8 and put a surrey top on it, you'll have a Stag for
cheap. Wait... you can already buy a Stag for cheap. BTW, I gained only
140 pounds from my conversion from NA four cylinder and autobox to alum head
V8 and 5 speed. The car has 53.5% on the front wheels.
The T5 is the lightest 5 speed out there, shifts great and would be plenty
stout for your application.
There are a fair number of V8 Volvos out there, most using the Converse kit
(which I didn't use). A Volvo is well suited for the conversion because the
engine bay is large and the rear end is stout. I too like the 1800 ES, but
the engine bay is much smaller. I have a hankering for a 544 with a high HP
late model Volvo turbo motor in it; fat tires, big brakes, etc...
Hey there are a lot of buick 215 aftermarket suppliers on the net, just
google. I am commiting heresey by putting one in my mercedes 250SL. The
original engine is an overcomplicated low-output POS.
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